From the new watches unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2026, we present five masterpieces of complication watches. Let's reflect on the technical prowess of each brand and the possibilities of mechanical watches through these complication timepieces, each infused with the ingenuity of its respective manufacturer.
Text by Tsubasa Nojima
[Article published on January 30, 2026]
Competing fiercely in complication development
New mechanisms are developed almost every year. Complication watches equipped with these mechanisms have always surprised watch enthusiasts. Many new complication watches were announced in 2026, but perhaps the most outstanding were the models based on the brands' iconic mechanisms and iconic pieces.
Patek Philippe has introduced a new "Celestial" model with intricate sunrise and sunset displays, while IWC has brilliantly overcome the weaknesses of the perpetual calendar mechanism developed by Kurt Krauss. Ulysse Nardin's "Super Freak," released to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the "Freak," boasts a mechanism that can truly be called the culmination of the series.
Complication watches, with their limited production runs and extremely high prices, may be something that most people rarely have the opportunity to own. However, they are excellent examples for understanding the technical capabilities of various companies and the potential of mechanical watches. This time, we'd like to introduce the appeal of five new models unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2026.
Patek Philippe "Grand Complication Celestial" Ref. 6105G-001
This is a new addition to Patek Philippe's "Celestial" complication watch, featuring an astronomical display mechanism. The dial displays the starry sky of the Northern Hemisphere, showing sidereal time, the positions of stars, the moon's orbit and phase, and the time of meridian transit. The highlight of this model is the sunrise and sunset time display. Two white hands in the center indicate the times of sunrise and sunset, respectively. This function can be switched between winter and summer time using pushers located on the side of the case. The crown at 2 o'clock is used to adjust the moon phase and celestial sphere, while the crown at 4 o'clock is used to adjust the time.
A key feature of this model is its case design, which differs significantly from previous Celestial models. The disc-shaped case, without lugs, is adorned with X-shaped motifs throughout and continues onto a black polymer strap. The case material is 18K white gold. The diameter is a striking 47mm. The solid case back is decorated with a Calatrava cross. The movement is the Cal.240 C LU CL LCSO, based on the micro-rotor automatic Cal.240.
The new Celestial features a lugless, round case. Two hands extending from the center indicate the times of sunrise and sunset. Automatic movement (Cal. 240 C LU CL LCSO). 51 jewels. 21,600 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 48 hours. 18K white gold case (47mm diameter, 12.39mm thickness). 3 ATM water resistance. 71,230,000 yen (including tax). (Inquiries) Patek Philippe Japan Information Center Tel. 03-3255-8109
A. Lange & Söhne "Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar "Lumen"" Ref. 720.035FE
A new lumen-based complication model has been added to the A. Lange & Söhne "Lange 1" collection, which is characterized by its asymmetrical layout. It features a perpetual calendar with an oversized date and retrograde day display, a month display on the outer edge of the dial, and a leap year indicator at 6 o'clock. A moon phase with day/night indicator is located at 7:30, and the tourbillon can be admired through the transparent case back.
Featuring Lumen's signature smoky sapphire crystal dial, this watch allows you to admire the hidden discs and movement mechanisms inside. The oversized date, leap year indicator, moon phase disc, hands, indice borders, and markings are generously coated with luminous paint, giving off a fantastic glow in the dark. This is a highly original model that translates the complex structure unique to complication watches into aesthetic beauty.
The case is made of platinum. Inside is the in-house automatic movement Cal. L225.1. It incorporates Glashütte style elements such as a three-quarter plate made of German silver, a hand-engraved balance bridge, and screw-down gold chatons.
A new Lumen model featuring a sapphire crystal dial and luminous paint. It is equipped with a perpetual calendar and a high-precision moon phase display. Automatic movement (Cal. L225.1). 74 jewels. 21,600 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 50 hours. Platinum case (41.9mm diameter, 13.0mm thickness). Limited edition of 50 pieces worldwide. Price upon inquiry. (Inquiries) A. Lange & Söhne Tel. 0120-23-1845
Van Cleef & Arpels "Midnight Jour Nuit Phases de Lune Watch" Ref.VCARPESA00
Van Cleef & Arpels' new timepiece combines a day/night indicator with a moon phase mechanism, creating a poetic and captivating scene. Beneath the mother-of-pearl dial, featuring a gradient of colors reminiscent of the horizon, lies a large Murano aventurine glass disc that completes a rotation in 24 hours. During the day, a guilloché-decorated gold sun appears, while at night, a moon surrounded by acrylic-painted stars emerges. The moon is also made of mother-of-pearl and functions as a moon phase display, showing its phases over a 29.5-day cycle.
A push button is located at the 8 o'clock position on the 18K white gold case, allowing you to enjoy a 10-second animation of a disc completing one rotation. This allows you to check the current lunar phase day or night. Through the case back, you can admire an engraving of the lunar surface, an enamel depiction of the Earth, and miniature paintings of other planets.
This model features a multi-layered dial housing a day/night indicator and moon phase mechanism. A push button at the 8 o'clock position allows for on-demand rotation of the disc. Automatic winding. Power reserve of approximately 36 hours. 18K white gold case (42mm diameter). Estimated price: 25,740,000 yen (including tax). (Inquiries) Van Cleef & Arpels Le Desk Tel. 0120-10-1906
IWC Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar Proset "Le Petit Prince" Ref. IW329601
IWC's pilot's watch, named "Proset," features a newly developed perpetual calendar mechanism. The Proset is a significant evolution of the perpetual calendar mechanism developed by Kurt Klaus in 1985. While it still doesn't use push buttons, it overcomes the weakness of the original mechanism—the inability to reset the calendar—by allowing the calendar to be adjusted forward or backward using the crown.
This watch features the "Proset" perpetual calendar mechanism, a significant evolution of the one developed by Kurt Klaus. The calendar can be adjusted forward or backward via the crown. It has an automatic movement (Cal. 82665), 34 jewels, 28,800 vibrations per hour, and a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. It has a ceramic case (42.9mm diameter, 14.3mm thickness) and is water-resistant to 10 atmospheres. Price: ¥6,314,000 (including tax). (Inquiries) IWC Tel. 0120-05-1868
The deep blue sunray dial, common to the "Petit Prince" series, is inspired by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry's "The Little Prince." A moon phase display for both the Northern and Southern hemispheres is located at the 12 o'clock position, while sub-dials at the 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions show the calendar.
The 42.9mm diameter case is a modest size for a ceramic case housing the company's perpetual calendar movement. Its features, such as 10 ATM water resistance and the "EasX-CHANGE®" system that allows for one-touch strap removal, make it appealing for everyday use.
Ulysse Nardin "Superfreak" Ref. 2520-500LE-3A-BLUE/3A
Celebrating its 25th anniversary, this new model marks the culmination of the iconic Freak series from Ulysse Nardin. The Freak's signature carousel mechanism sits atop a light blue NanoSital® hour disc, boasting exceptional clarity and hardness. This carousel mechanism rotates once every hour, functioning as the minute hand. On either side are titanium flying tourbillons with a 10-degree incline, along with a silicon balance wheel and hairspring, and a DiamondSil® escapement, featuring diamond-coated silicon for enhanced hardness.
A rare model commemorating Freak's 25th anniversary, limited to 50 pieces worldwide. It's the first Freak to feature a seconds display. Automatic winding (Cal. UN-252). 42 jewels. 18,000 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. 18K white gold case (44mm diameter, 16.54mm thickness). 30m water resistance. Limited to 50 pieces worldwide. ¥55,946,000 (tax included). (Inquiries) Sowind Japan Tel. 03-5211-1791
One of the key features of this model is that, thanks to a newly developed differential and gimbal specifically designed for it, it features a seconds display—a first for Freak. A cylindrical part attached to the tip rotates, allowing the time to be read in seconds.
The 44mm diameter case is made of 18K white gold. The automatic winding mechanism, which employs Grinder® technology for high winding efficiency, can be admired through the transparent case back.
