Approximately three years after launching his eponymous brand, Biver, Jean-Claude Biver first released the "Carillon Tourbillon" for 550,000 Swiss francs, followed by the "Automatic" in 2024. The three-hand model, featuring an automatic movement developed in collaboration with Dubois-Depraz, starts at 75,000 Swiss francs. Furthermore, at Dubai Watch Week 2025, he added 11 new variations using guilloché, grand feu enamel, and natural stone dials. His past success was attributed to his skillful pricing strategy in addition to his marketing. So why did he start his own brand with such an exorbitantly priced model?
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2026 issue of Kronos Japan]
The eternal pursuit of quality that master trainer Biver has arrived at
Founder of Biver. Born in Luxembourg in 1949. After working at Audemars Piguet, he joined the ASUAG Group (now Swatch Group). After reviving Blancpain in 1982, he became CEO of Hublot in 2004. With the concept of fusion, he quadrupled sales in just two years. In 2014, he became president of the LVMH Group's watch division. In January 2022, he founded his eponymous brand, "Biver."
"I may have underestimated the importance of the sales flow. If you want to generate 1.5 million Swiss francs in annual sales, it makes more sense for the brand to sell five watches for 300,000 Swiss francs each than to sell one watch for 1.5 million francs."
Admitting his misreading so frankly is typical of Biver. However, he continues...
"Cost wasn't the top priority. It was about being unique in every detail, even the unseen parts, and being one of a kind in terms of quality. Our mission is to lead the brand to the future." In other words, his own beliefs took precedence over calculations.
I also asked about the movement. The JCB-003, which is used in the three-hand model, was developed in collaboration with Dubois-Dépraz. It has an outstanding finish, but given Biver's price range, wouldn't some people expect it to be completely manufactured in-house?
"The movement was designed jointly by both parties. It combines Dubois-Depraz's expertise with the knowledge of our engineer, François Perret. And all the decoration was done in our workshop." Indeed, the hand-engraved Clous de Paris pattern on the 18K gold base plate and bridges is magnificent. It seems his stance is that what you do is more important than the origin of the design.
Jean-Claude Biver describes this new model as "definitely not 'basic'." While it boasts a very orthodox configuration with a micro-rotor automatic movement and three hands, the finishing, including the movement itself, is breathtaking. Automatic movement (Cal. JCB-003-A). 36 jewels. 25,200 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. 18K rose gold case (39mm diameter, 10mm thickness). 8 ATM water resistance. From 80,000 Swiss francs.
Although Biver has a relatively short history as a manufacturer, it produces outstanding watches. As many in the industry acknowledge, his career spanning more than half a century undoubtedly underpins this. So, how will the taste and DNA of the master craftsman Biver be preserved going forward?
"We will never relinquish control over quality. Our reason for existence and the core philosophy of our brand lie in striving for perfection even in the unseen details. That 'soul' is the most important element of the objects we create, and that soul will never age; it will exist forever."
The inheritance of aesthetic sensibilities is synonymous with the inheritance of quality. Biver, who once said, "I come from a product development background," has arrived at an endless pursuit of quality.
