Chopard Manufacture, the heart of Chopard's watchmaking, celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. Having established a consistent production process through vertical integration, the "LUC" collection born from this process embodies the Maison's philosophy. While continuing to develop and evolve authentically, the new collection breathes new life into the next generation through colors and materials. This fresh appeal further enhances its true value, opening up new frontiers for the LUC collection, which continues to deepen and transcend time.
This is the second reissue of the original "LUC 1860," following the one released in 2023. The materials, finish, and specifications are the same as the original, but in a different color. The dial uses white gold, further highlighting the guilloché pattern radiating from the logo, and creating a striking contrast with the blue crown. It features an automatic movement (Cal.LUC 96.40-L), 29 jewels, 28,800 vibrations/hour, and a power reserve of approximately 65 hours. It has a Lucent Steel™ case (36.5mm diameter, 8.2mm thickness) and is water-resistant to 30m. Price: ¥4,213,000 (including tax).
Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Text by Mitsuru Shibata
Text by Mitsuru Shibata
Edited by Yousuke Ohashi (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2026 issue of Kronos Japan]
LUC's authentic maturity, and beyond.
A new frontier in materials and style, refined over 30 years.
The Chopard booth at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2026 exuded a vibrant atmosphere, yet with a slightly different feel than in previous years. In the center of the salon space, where new models sparkled, an antique lathe was set up, and craftsmen were diligently working on intricate details. This was a celebration of Chopard Manufacture's 30th anniversary, and a stronger emphasis was placed on the craftsmanship and the artistry of traditional decoration that embodies it.
As the elegantly dressed attendees watched, Metalem demonstrated the process of manufacturing the dial for the "LUC" watch. The company is a prestigious name in dial decoration with a history of nearly 100 years since its founding, and joined the Chopard Group in 2020. More than 200 skilled craftsmen work together, possessing 40 different specialized techniques. However, only eight of them are capable of performing the level of manual lathe guilloché work being done at this venue, and the lathes used are said to be over 100 years old. "Guilloché decoration is an art, and the well-used tools from previous generations become an extension of the craftsmen's hands; it cannot be expressed any other way," the representative said proudly.
The LUC collection, a symbol of the Chopard Manufacture, is undoubtedly the maison's pursuit of its ideals in watchmaking. The basic concept began in 1985, and the project officially started in 1993. Three years later, the first movement, Caliber LUC 1.96, was unveiled, featuring an automatic winding mechanism with a micro-rotor and a double barrel, achieving a long power reserve of approximately 65 hours and meeting the high precision standards of COSC-certified chronometers. It was an innovative creation that combined traditional watchmaking technology with the latest performance. And from here, LUC began not only with technological innovation, but also with an aesthetic appeal as a work of art and craft. Metallem plays a part in this.
The new LUC 1860 collection exudes a refined elegance honed over time, while also showcasing a new style. The pursuit of beauty extends beyond the dial to the movement, with the Caliber LUC 96.40-L, visible through the transparent case back, adorned with exquisite decorations. It is a true luxury that only the owner can truly appreciate.
The deep, rich blue color was inspired by the Alluse River that flows near the manufacture. It is reminiscent of the color of the formal navy suits favored by co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, and even in the gentle currents, LUC's philosophy remains unwavering.
Thin watches are highly regarded for their slim design, functionality, and sophisticated casing, as well as their comfortable fit that feels like a "second skin" on the wrist. Once you wear one, you won't want to take it off, and the blissful satisfaction you experience will likely rival the joy of wearing a traditional bespoke suit crafted by a master artisan.
The Prussian blue of the dial is a pigment that originated in Berlin, the capital of the Kingdom of Prussia, in the 18th century. The canton of Neuchâtel, home to the Chopard manufacture, has a unique history of dual affiliation, having once been under Prussian rule before later joining the Swiss Confederation. The Maison has adopted this traditional blue for this timepiece, paying homage to its distinctive history. Automatic movement (Cal.LUC 96.12-L). 29 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 65 hours. Lucent Steel™ case (40mm diameter, 7.2mm thickness). 30m water resistance. 1,925,000 yen (including tax).
Chopard has a history of creating modern classic styles suitable for the contemporary gentleman, such as the "LUC XP" with its virgin wool merino strap and the subtle houndstooth pattern on the dial, a collaboration with the prestigious Neapolitan tailor Kiton. The Maison has a strong affinity with fashion, and the new "LUC XPS" proposes a new luxury style for slim watches.
The case boasts a modern proportion with a thickness of just 7.2mm but a deliberately large 40mm diameter, ensuring a comfortable fit without sacrificing presence. The enlarged dial features a beautiful Prussian blue, a color with historical ties to Fleurier, where the manufacture is located, as well as a sector dial reminiscent of 1930s modernism. With a three-hand design including a small seconds subdial and the absence of a calendar, it exudes a dressy, functional beauty.
Chopard argues that one definition of a modern gentleman is someone who respects tradition while embracing progressive ideals. He suggests that style should be free from unnecessary embellishments and fleeting trends, and that exquisite craftsmanship should be highly valued. The new collection, embodying this philosophy, seamlessly adapts to every everyday occasion, from casual to dressy, and truly exudes modern dandyism.
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele has led the Chopard manufacture for the past 30 years, but in recent years, he has hinted at a generational change in response to shifts in the times and the market. Just as time always moves forward, continuous progress without interruption is perhaps the destiny of an independent owner-operated maison. The successor who will carry on the family's will is Karl-Fritz, Scheufele's eldest son.
His capabilities were already demonstrated when he led the development of the "Alpine Eagle," which has now become an icon of Chopard's men's watches. And the new "LUC Time Traveler One" also exudes a fresh, youthful energy.
The local time is adjusted using the crown at the 2 o'clock position on the side of the case, and the city disc is set to 12 o'clock using the crown at the 4 o'clock position to display the time in 24 cities around the world. This authentic world timer, first released in 2016, has been reinterpreted in a modern and stylish way. The deep silver case is made of ceramicized titanium, which combines the lightness of titanium with the hardness and scratch resistance of ceramics, and is paired with a khaki dial and strap, resulting in a dynamic design reminiscent of an adventurous and curious field watch.
Karl-Fritz has a strong interest in vintage fashion and Japanese designer brands, and his eyes lit up with excitement when he visited Japan. It's no wonder that his sense of fashion is reflected in his watches.
LUC was created to pursue unique watchmaking techniques by inheriting traditional Swiss watchmaking and culture while incorporating cutting-edge technologies of the times. The underlying strong will to pass on this legacy to the next generation is now being entrusted to the young leaders.
The ceramicized titanium used in the case is produced through plasma electrolytic oxidation treatment at ultra-high temperatures. The ceramic layer on the surface boasts a maximum Vickers hardness of 1000, far exceeding the hardness of the base Grade 5 titanium. It offers excellent wear resistance, impact resistance, and corrosion resistance, and its matte, deep silver color exudes toughness. Automatic winding (Cal.LUC 01.05-L). 39 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Ceramized Grade 5 titanium case (42mm diameter, 12.09mm thickness). 50m water resistance. Limited edition of 250 pieces worldwide. 2,871,000 yen (including tax).
