In 2025, the year it celebrated its 250th anniversary, Breguet once again strongly impressed upon the Maison's history and tradition with numerous commemorative models. This year, that vision is being newly developed in its flagship "Tradition" collection. More than 20 years after its introduction in 2005, a modern update of "tradition" has just begun.
Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Text by Shigeru Sugawara
Text by Shigeru Sugawara
Edited by Yuzo Takeishi
Edited by Yuzo Takeishi
[Article published in the July 2026 issue of Kronos Japan]
Bringing tradition into the modern age: The current state of new traditions.
Among the many luxury watch brands, Breguet undoubtedly possesses the highest concentration and purity of tradition. Even now, after a long history since its founding in 1775, the technology, design, and story originating from Abraham-Louis Breguet continue to shine brightly.
The "Tradition 7037," equipped with a 60-second retrograde seconds hand, is one of the earliest and most iconic models. The new model features an off-center dial with Breguet numerals in a grand feu enamel finish, replacing the traditional guilloché with Roman numerals. Other features include a movement with blue accents on both sides, a barrel cover with a snail-patterned guilloché, and the first-ever rubber strap, achieving both a return to tradition and a modern update. Automatic winding (Cal. 505SR). 38 jewels. 21,600 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 50 hours. 18K white gold case (38mm diameter, 12.7mm thickness). 3 ATM water resistance. 7,612,000 yen (including tax).
In 2005, Breguet unveiled its collection named "Tradition." While many were surprised by its unconventional design, which differed from traditional classical styles and could even be seen as avant-garde, those familiar with Breguet's history would have immediately recognized that the Tradition collection was inspired by the innovative movements featured in the founder Breguet's "Subscription Watch" and "Montres à Tact" watches, and adapted for wristwatch design.
When you actually compare the first model, "Tradition 7027," released in 05, with the "Montre à Tact No. 2292" pocket watch sold in the early 19th century, the similarities are immediately apparent. Not only are the layout of the movement strikingly similar, including the large mainspring barrel prominently positioned in the center, the perfectly balanced and symmetrical arrangement of gears of the same size, the balance wheel with a device mimicking a parachute shock-resistant mechanism, and the off-center dial at the 12 o'clock position on the case, but you can also see that historical design elements are reflected in every detail, from the Roman numerals on the dial and the blued steel Breguet hands, to the gold and matte grenaide finishes on the mainplate and cantilever bridge, and the blued screws. The exposed face that we see as the front of the wristwatch is the inner workings of a legendary pocket watch, and at the same time, it is the back of the movement that is usually hidden inside the case—a truly elaborate presentation.
As faithfully reproduced in the "Classic Subscription 2025," the first model released last year to commemorate the company's 250th anniversary, the origins of this distinctive movement structure can be traced back to the simple single-hand pocket watch, the Subscription Watch, which began being sold by reservation in 1796. However, the Tradition has gone a step further, steadily building a lineage of evolution through added functions while consistently maintaining its unique visual identity. These include the power reserve indicator featured in the first model, the retrograde small seconds, the tourbillon incorporating a constant force mechanism with a classic chain-driven conical pulley, the groundbreaking chronograph driven by an independent power source, the dual-time GMT, and the retrograde date cleverly utilizing a repeating date hand. The technological innovations and numerous patents incorporated into these features have also attracted attention.
Over the 20 years since its debut, the Tradition has seen the creation of a variety of distinctive models, but this year's latest creation has been updated to become an even more refined and modern style. Let's take a closer look at it next.
Last year, to commemorate its 250th anniversary, Breguet focused on embodying the spirit and vision of Abraham-Louis Breguet in its watches. Following that theme, this year Breguet has attempted a reinterpretation of tradition. In order to faithfully reflect the founder's vision, the collection has been developed in a modern direction while adhering to historical concepts.
As already outlined, the defining characteristic of the Tradition is its design and mechanism, which are directly linked to the Subscription Watch. In other words, like the representative models of the Classic Collection, the Tradition is a wristwatch adaptation of Breguet's important pocket watches, which form part of its historical heritage.
The first step in the approach is the redesign of the off-center dial positioned at the 12 o'clock position. As foreshadowed by last year's 250th-anniversary model, the Tradition 7035, the new models feature an off-center dial composed of traditional grand feu enamel and the distinctive italicized Arabic numerals—Breguet numerals—designed by founder Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1783, thus directly linking it to the dial design of the Subscription Watch. This is particularly evident in the white dials of the new Tradition 7037 and Tradition Retrograde Seconde 7097. However, it's also worth noting that Breguet is working on modern updates alongside tradition, such as the first-ever green gradient grand feu enamel in the Tradition GMT 7067 and the first-ever black aventurine crystal in the Tradition 7038.
The new Tradition also features another traditional element directly linked to the founder Breguet's vision: the crescent-shaped platinum rotor visible through the sapphire crystal case back. Inspired by the winding mechanism of the "Perpetuel" automatic watch invented around 1780, this rotor combines seemingly contradictory aspects: a return to tradition in shape and material, while its mechanism is modern. This makes it an extremely unique presence not only in Breguet's current models but also in other common automatic watches.
Furthermore, the movement's decoration and coloring clearly express a sense of novelty. Depending on the model, the barrel cover is adorned with guilloché engraving featuring snail or sunray patterns, while the greneille-finished mainplate and bridges are colored in bright blue, deep black, or anthracite gray, creating a stylish impression through the use of color. In addition, the rubber strap, which matches the tone of the face, and the lug shape, which supports an interchangeable system that allows for easy strap changes without tools, are also firsts. A newness that matches the tastes and lifestyles of modern people has been incorporated into the Tradition.
Tradition becomes a truly living tradition through its renewal in line with the times. The new generation of Tradition is an outstanding timepiece that embodies this Breguet spirit. It is sure to appeal not only to traditional enthusiasts but also to younger generations.
The "Tradition 7037" variant, featuring a platinum case, boasts a modern and stylish monochrome design with a black off-center dial in grand feu enamel, a movement with a black finish on both sides, and a matching rubber strap. It features an automatic movement (Cal. 505SR), 38 jewels, 21,600 vibrations per hour, and a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. The platinum case (38mm diameter, 12.7mm thickness) is water-resistant to 3 atmospheres. Price: ¥8,371,000 (including tax).
The new "Tradition GMT 7067" features a GMT function and incorporates several features new to the Tradition series, including an off-center dial in green gradient grand feu enamel, a second time zone display available in two styles (Breguet numerals and Oriental numerals), and a rubber strap. It is an automatic movement (Cal. 507DRF), with 40 jewels, 21,600 vibrations per hour, and a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. It has a platinum case (40mm diameter, 12.1mm thickness) and is water-resistant to 3 atmospheres. Price: ¥10,571,000 (including tax).
The "Tradition Retrograde Seconds 7097" emphasizes the seconds display by overlaying the retrograde seconds subdial on an off-center dial. The new model is the first to feature a grand feu enamel off-center dial with Breguet numerals, and the balance with the seconds display has also been changed. The movement finish and strap are also new. Automatic winding (Cal. 505SR1). 38 jewels. 21,600 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 50 hours. 18K rose gold case (40mm diameter, 11.8mm thickness). 3 ATM water resistance. 7,271,000 yen (including tax).
The new "Tradition 7038," previously designed for women and adorned with diamonds, is the first Tradition model to feature an off-center dial and black aventurine crystal. The sunburst pattern guilloché engraving on the barrel cover and movement rotor also gives it a fresh look. Automatic winding (Cal. 505SR). 38 jewels. 21,600 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 50 hours. 18K white gold case (37mm diameter, 11.6mm thickness). 3 ATM water resistance. 8,514,000 yen (including tax).
