The ETA 2020 problem triggered a fierce competition to develop in-house movements. While it might have seemed that only large manufacturers with significant capital would survive, up-and-coming suppliers are filling the void. What they have in common is their advanced modification capabilities. These cutting-edge suppliers are challenging the conventional wisdom in the watch industry that small-batch, high-variety production and high quality are incompatible.
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Text & Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
Diversifying Movement Suppliers
For a long time, the world of movement suppliers was dominated by two giants: ETA and Sellita. However, in recent years, the number of interesting manufacturers has been increasing. One such company is Concept, which supplies movements to brands like Jacob & Co. and Louis Monnet. Having manufactured alternatives to ETA's movements and later creating unique complications like the "Astronomia," this company is a leading force in movement supply. Following closely behind them is Le Cercle des Horlogers. This company does not deal in off-the-shelf products, but exclusively in thoroughly customized movements. It was founded by Alain Caesar, formerly of Christophe Claret, and Nicolas Helen, who built his career at Audemars Piguet and La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. While initially remaining behind the scenes, the company has begun manufacturing its own movements, producing tourbillons, minute repeaters, and other timepieces.
Given that Nicolas Helen was a member, Le Cercle des Horlogers was undoubtedly influenced by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. It's natural that La Fabrique du Temps would use Le Cercle des Horlogers' ébauches when creating a new movement. Of course, Louis Vuitton made significant modifications. Note the laser-engraved finish on the mainplate. Automatic winding (30.6mm diameter, 4.2mm thickness). 31 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 50 hours.
There are two main reasons for the company's rapid success. First, they received investment from Speake Marine, a company owned by a wealthy individual. Second, they systematized the movement modification process. The two founders, who had experience in the industrial sector, possessed expertise in logistics, procurement, verification, and management. By digitizing the production flow and resolving problems before the next process, they minimized defects. It is said that achieving both small-batch, high-variety production and high quality is difficult in the watch industry, but Le Cercle des Horlogers has succeeded. However, some insiders point out that as a result of their rapid growth, deliveries have become delayed. If they can overcome this, the company will make a big leap forward.
Le Cercle des Horlogers currently manufactures all of Speake-Marin's movements. This is their latest creation, the Cal.SMA07, a micro-rotor automatic high-beat movement (!). While it's likely that it uses the same components as the Cal.CH200 ébauche, it's completely different in terms of performance, thickness, and gear train arrangement. This movement is overflowing with the Le Cercle des Horlogers' characteristic commitment to small-batch, high-variety production. Automatic winding (diameter 35.75mm, thickness 3.25mm). 27 jewels. 36,000 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 52 hours.
Perhaps inspired by these developments, the long-established Dubois-Dépraz has also begun creating ambitious movements. In 2019, the company released the DD540, its first integrated chronograph. Following this, they designed a micro-rotor automatic winding movement for Biver. Biver likely chose not to use Le Cercle des Horlogers, with whom they already had a relationship, because they were counting on Dubois-Dépraz's modules. Known for their skillful use of modules, Dubois-Dépraz will likely add various modules to this automatic winding movement in the future.
The new "Automatic Atelier" is equipped with the Cal.JCB-003, a micro-rotor automatic winding movement. The bridges feature micro-guilloché detailing, and the movement also incorporates a zero-reset mechanism and free-sprung balance. The wolf-tooth shaped ratchet on the mainspring barrel is an homage to the traditions of the Vallée de Joux. This movement showcases the capabilities of Dubois-Dépraz, a company that once supplied high-quality movements to Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. Automatic winding. 36 jewels. 25,200 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 65 hours.
Similarly, Sellita has also begun to focus on sophisticated movements. For many years, this role had been handled by La Joux-Perret. However, Sellita has launched a brand called AMT, which produces high-end movements and now supplies customized movements to brands such as TAG Heuer and Norqain. As it is still a new venture, the full scope is not yet clear. However, it is certain to increase its market share in the future.
The Norqain "Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm" is equipped with the Cal.NN24/1, which was jointly developed with AMT. The base is clearly Sellita's Cal.SW500, but instead of a cam, a column wheel controls the movement, and a flyback mechanism has also been added. Sellita, which previously commissioned La Joux-Perret to modify its movements, is expected to complete the process in-house from now on. Automatic winding (30mm diameter). 31 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 62 hours.
And one last thing. The beloved Landeron has also made a comeback. While it might seem like a separate company, they state that they "take pride in looking back on the innovative spirit and pursuit of excellence that have shaped Landeron's history," suggesting they are the legitimate successor. The company, which produces three-hand watches and a very small number of chronographs and tourbillons, acquired the factory of Swiss manufacturer Chilon in 2023. In the future, Landeron movements may become widely available in the lower price range.
The revived Excelsior Park uses a Sellita movement for its chronograph and a Landeron Swiss movement for its three-hand "EP 884-SI." As the photo shows, this is a complete replacement for either the Cal. ETA 2801 or the Sellita Cal. SW215. However, according to official Excelsior Park information, the power reserve is slightly longer at approximately 40 hours. Depending on the price, it will likely be favored by small maisons that are emphasizing a retro style. Manual winding. 17 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour.
