NAOYA HIDA & Co., a noteworthy independent micro-brand, presents its new watch collection for 2026, full of new challenges.

2026.06.24

Since releasing its first model, NAOYA HIDA & Co. has steadily built its reputation as a leading Japanese watch manufacturer. Their new collection for 2026 is full of unprecedented challenges, sure to pique the curiosity of watch enthusiasts.

NH TYPE3B-4, NH TYPE7A

(Right) NH TYPE3B-4
The case, with its exquisite three-dimensional engraving in the Art Nouveau style reminiscent of the cast-iron roofs and railings of Paris Metro entrances, is truly remarkable. The moon phase disc, which displays the phases of the moon, is made of lapis lazuli, and a gold moon with a hand-carved face is fixed in place. Only about two pieces are planned for production in 2026. Manual winding (Cal. 3021LU). 18 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 45 hours. 18K yellow gold case (37mm diameter, 10.8mm thickness). 5 ATM water resistance. Limited to 2 pieces. 16,500,000 yen (including tax).
(Left) NH TYPE7A
The chronograph seconds hand and 30-minute counter hand are blued, while the hour, minute, and second hands are made of 18K yellow gold, with each function having a different color. This is a masterpiece of hand-wound chronograph that is noteworthy not only for its functionality but also for its beautiful appearance. Approximately 10 pieces are planned to be produced in 2026. Hand-wound (Cal. 2926CH). 17 jewels. 21,600 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 48 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 36mm, thickness 11.7mm). 3 ATM water resistance. Limited to 10 pieces. 5,830,000 yen (including tax).
Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Text by Masaharu Nabata
Edited by Yousuke Ohashi (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2026 issue of Kronos Japan]


NH Watch explores new horizons in watchmaking.

 Since its founding in 2018, NAOYA HIDA & Co. has been creating watches based on vintage models from the 1930s to the 60s. While the materials and techniques are extremely traditional, their new collection for 2026 introduces a bold and unprecedented concept.

 First, the new "NH TYPE3B-4" is the first model in the "NH TYPE3B" series to feature a moon phase complication and boasts an 18K yellow gold case adorned with elegant hand engraving. The motif is inspired by Art Nouveau, which swept the world from the late 19th to the early 20th century. The complex and magnificent patterns, reminiscent of flowing water and clouds, are expressed using a technique inspired by "fleurizan decoration," a specialty of Bovet and others, where the area around the motif is carved out to create a three-dimensional effect.

 But the engraving isn't the only highlight. The minute marker ring on the outer edge of the dial is set with 60 yellow gold dots that were hand-polished from separate parts. The three-dimensional Arabic numeral indices employ an elaborate technique where the numbers are hand-engraved and then covered with gold leaf.

 Incidentally, when creating a classic wristwatch, everyone considers using a vintage movement. However, when Naoya Tobita first considered making watches, he lacked sufficient experience and was concerned about obtaining spare parts, so he decided against it. This has now been realized with his new hand-wound chronograph, the "NH TYPE7A."

 The watch is powered by the Valjoux Caliber 23, a legendary movement that began production in 1916 and continued for approximately 60 years. This masterpiece movement is housed in a case crafted with the latest ultra-precise machining technology. Furthermore, hand-engraved indices and other artisanal elements have been added to create a high-end model. We are proud that this has been realized in Japan.

Cal. 23

Valjoux's Cal.23 is a long-selling, legendary hand-wound chronograph movement developed in 1916 and manufactured for approximately 60 years. The Cal.2926CH movement used in the "NH TYPE7A" is based on a model with an increased oscillation frequency, from 18,000 vibrations per hour to 21,600 vibrations per hour.

 By the way, are you familiar with "porcelain dials"? These are made by firing kaolin, which is crushed clay or stone. In contrast, enamel (cloisonné) is made by applying a vitreous glaze to a metal plate and firing it. The dial of the new "NH TYPE2C-2" is not metal-based, but porcelain. Until now, dials made of metal with engraved designs have been the norm, but this is the first time a dial made of a different material has been realized. Moreover, it is not just the beauty of the dial that is astonishing, but also the perfection of the hand-painted logo and indices. In addition to the depiction of the numbers being as accurate as printing, the expression is full of tension and without a single flaw, even down to the decorative details at the ends called "serifs," and the metallic, three-dimensional texture is breathtaking.

NH TYPE2C-2

NH TYPE2C-2
The exceptional transparency of the porcelain dial and the delicate depiction of the Arabic numeral indices are astonishing, and one can only admire the high level of skill of the craftsman who created it. A calfskin strap made of Veau Epsom leather is included. Approximately 10 pieces are planned to be produced this year. Manual winding (Cal. 3020CS). 22 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 45 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 37mm, thickness 11.4mm). 5 ATM water resistance. Limited to 10 pieces. 3,135,000 yen (tax included).

 The Armoury, a men's clothing brand with shops in Hong Kong and New York, and NAOYA HIDA & Co. have collaborated for the third time on the "NH TYPE4A-2," a watch with a delicate feather motif hand-engraved on the dial.

 The dial is made of Argentium Silver, a silver alloy that is resistant to discoloration even when exposed to air. This is a mixture of 92.5% pure sterling silver, copper, and a small amount of germanium. It is known as a maintenance-free silver material that is resistant to oxidation. Bead blasting is applied to it, and three feathers are engraved with delicate detail, appearing to float gently. The sharpness of the feather shafts and the softness of the feathers are conveyed realistically, even through the domed sapphire crystal.

NH TYPE4A-2

NH TYPE4A-2
Inspired by 1960s watch designs, this timepiece features a 36mm diameter 904L stainless steel case paired with a hand-wound Cal.3020CS movement. Only 10 pieces will be produced in 2026, with delivery scheduled for 2027. Hand-wound (Cal.3020CS). 22 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 45 hours. Stainless steel case (36mm diameter, 11mm thickness). 5 ATM water resistance. Limited to 10 pieces. US$33,000 or HK$257,400.

 Recently, small-scale watch manufacturers, sometimes called micro-brands, have been gaining attention, but even among them, NAOYA HIDA & Co. stands out for its exceptional quality. I'm sure I'm not the only one who feels this way.



Contact info: NH WATCH https://naoyahidawatch.com/


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