Since its introduction in 2014, Bulgari's Octo Finissimo has broken records for the thinnest mechanical watches. However, it would be a big mistake to consider this collection merely as an ultra-thin watch. Bulgari released this timepiece as a "usable watch," and that characteristic has only grown stronger with each passing year. In other words, the Octo Finissimo has redefined the concept of a thin watch. The newly added 37mm diameter model is the culmination of that vision.
Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2026 issue of Kronos Japan]
More than just a small watch, this is a leading thin wristwatch aiming to be a "versatile timepiece."
In fact, one of my favorite current watches is Bulgari's Octo Finissimo. While its design may appear "luxury sports," its extremely thin case and the strong taper on the bracelet demonstrate that it's an attempt to reinvent a dress watch for the modern era. The reason the Octo Finissimo is the benchmark for sporty, thin dress watches—once a niche market, but now a thriving mainstream—is precisely because of its solid, well-structured design as a wristwatch.
The appeal of the Octo Finissimo lies in its high level of balance between thinness and three-dimensionality, two elements that are inherently incompatible. This is an element that Patek Philippe's "Nautilus," Audemars Piguet's "Royal Oak," and Vacheron Constantin's "222" have also incorporated, but what made the Octo Finissimo new was that not only the bezel but also the case was redesigned to be three-dimensional. However, the reason this "impossible" feat was possible was that Bulgari's development team was able to use the exterior factory under the group's umbrella, which has advanced production facilities.
Furthermore, the Octo Finissimo has acquired characteristics uncharacteristic of a thin watch. One example is the improved legibility achieved by enlarging the indices and displays. The mixed bar and Arabic numeral indices originally designed by Gerald Genta were already very easy to read. Fabrizio Bonamassa Stigliani, who oversees Bulgari's watch design, revised and enlarged them before adopting them for the Octo Finissimo. Making the indices, which would normally be kept slim on a thin watch, appear larger was an unprecedented approach.
Another key feature is its robust movement. Breaking the conventional wisdom that thin watches are unsuitable for everyday wear, each movement in the Octo Finissimo is built to be strong. Large bridges and chronograph arms that hook onto the underside of the bridges give the Octo Finissimo a sturdiness unusual for a thin movement.
The new 37mm diameter model is available in multiple materials. On the right is the familiar blast-finished titanium model. On the left is the dressy 18K yellow gold model. Thanks to a new manufacturing process, the surfaces are smoother than ever before. The buckle has also been changed to a standard push-button type. Automatic winding (Cal. BVF100). 31 jewels. 21,600 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Diameter 37mm, thickness 6.45mm. 30m water resistance. (Right) 2,629,000 yen / (Left) 7,535,000 yen (both including tax).
The culmination of these efforts is the 37mm diameter model added in 2026. To reduce the case size, the movement was completely redesigned. Fabrizio says that by redesigning everything from the mainspring barrel, they succeeded in reducing the size by about 20%. Also, with future developments in mind, the dial thickness was increased from 0.4mm to 0.8mm. And the bracelet's end links are now secured with robust screws instead of pins. It's easy to see why Fabrizio described this model, which emphasizes the packaging more than its thinness, as "the mainstream of the Octo Finissimo."
In addition, Bulgari further improved the finish of the exterior. Fabrizio said, "We smoothed the surface of the exterior using a technique similar to Zaratsu polishing, which other companies also use." Although I couldn't get the details, it seems that they smoothed the surface while preserving the sharp edges by pressing the case against a rotating disc. The results are as shown in the photos. It looks the same as before, but the edges are now even sharper. Also, by reducing the clearance between the end caps and the case, the fit of the watch has been improved. Even the blasted titanium material is probably one of the reasons why it looks so luxurious.
The 37mm model has a case thickness of 6.45mm. This is slightly thicker than the 40mm model's 5.15mm, but still within the range of being extremely thin. Bulgari has used the increased thickness to enhance its presence. This is evident in the slightly widened gap between the case and the end links. Not only here, but by slightly increasing the width of the bevels, the 37mm model, when viewed from an angle, appears more three-dimensional than thin. As a result, the impression of the watch having "bold shoulders" when worn on the wrist has been reduced. Of course, that is a distinct characteristic of the Octo Finissimo, but in terms of appealing to a wider audience, the treatment of the "shoulders" is even more clever.
Twelve years after its initial release, Octo Finissimo has finally reached a state of maturity. This album, which so skillfully embraces various contradictions, is undoubtedly one of the masterpieces you can buy right now.
