"Sushi Hōseki," which hangs its noren (traditional Japanese curtain) inside the Bulgari Hotel Tokyo, which opened with great fanfare in 2023, is a sushi restaurant that attracts food connoisseurs from both Japan and abroad from among the countless sushi restaurants out there.
In addition to Edo-style gizzard shad, they often use gizzard shad from Kyushu, such as Saga and Kumamoto prefectures. "Gizzard shad caught around Amakusa has the aroma of aonori seaweed when you prepare it," says Mr. Shimizu. He adjusts the way he seasons the fish with salt and vinegar depending on the origin and the condition of the flesh, such as its fat content. For the sushi rice, he uses two types of red vinegar and organically grown rice vinegar. The course menu is a mix of appetizers and sushi, unfolding with a varied pace and contrast in flavor and temperature.
Text by Yui Togawa
Photo by Yu Mitamura
Photographs by Yu Mitamura
[Article published in the July 2026 issue of Kronos Japan]
A heartfelt dish prepared with the diner in mind.
Stepping through the indigo-colored noren (curtain), guests are greeted by a surprisingly spacious 7-meter-high ceiling, further enhancing their sense of excitement. Shimizu Takuro, the head chef of "Sushi Hōseki," welcomes them, clad in a denim kimono. Upon being seated, guests notice a charming array of chopstick rests, each with a unique design featuring fish, vegetables, and other motifs. This thoughtful touch, intended to spark conversation, soothes the hearts of the guests.
Born in Kanagawa Prefecture. After working for about 10 years at a local fish restaurant directly managed by a fishing company, he decided to pursue a career as a sushi chef. He honed his skills at hotels in Tokyo and a three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Sapporo. In 2023, he became the head chef of "Sushi Hōseki" at the Bulgari Hotel Tokyo. He is dedicated to serving guests with a meticulous approach to conveying sushi culture.
Served in the traditional way, the sushi is placed directly on the counter and is small and elegantly arched, making it easy for even women to eat. Beyond its beauty, which is likened to a jewel as reflected in the restaurant's name, one is impressed by how the sushi topping and rice complement each other as they delicately disintegrate in the mouth. Apparently, this rounded shape was chosen to allow air to be incorporated into the sushi for a lighter, more airy texture.
The rice used is the newly harvested "Ten no Tsubu" from Aizu. Generally, older rice is used for sushi because it is easier to handle. "But if you're eating it as white rice, new rice tastes better, doesn't it? You can compensate for the difficulty in handling it with skill," Shimizu says casually. He continues, "It's a rice with good staying power, and the good condition after it's cooked lasts for a long time." Even so, he doesn't hesitate to cook it in two batches for a single course. It's not about the cook, but about the diner. "I'm not aiming for 'this range is OK,' but rather I'm always thinking about how I can do my job to aim for that one small, perfect point." His tone of voice conveys a deep respect for the ingredients.
Furthermore, the comfortable atmosphere at "Sushi Hōseki" is largely due to Mr. Shimizu's skill. He instantly grasps the situation at each table and optimizes the amount and timing of conversations, creating an overall harmonious atmosphere. When asked about the difficulty of entertaining eight guests at once, he immediately praises his staff and humbly says, "It's all thanks to the team," which clearly shows Mr. Shimizu's character.
With sushi, you feel the chef's hands more closely than with any other dish. Therefore, the type of chef and the thoughts and feelings behind the preparation greatly influence how you perceive the taste, and will likely lead to differing preferences. Once you visit "Sushi Hōseki," you'll naturally find yourself wanting to eat Shimizu-san's sushi again.
Sushi Hoseki
Bvlgari Hotel Tokyo 40th floor, 2-2-1 Yaesu, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Tel.03-6262-6624
Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Open from 12:00 to 14:00 (except Thursdays), 18:00 to 20:00, and 20:30 to 22:30.
Lunch: 28,000 yen, Dinner: 38,000 yen (both including service charge)
