The tourbillon for Breguet: A look back at the 225th anniversary of its patent, along with new timepieces.

This year marks the 225th anniversary of June 26, 1801, when watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet patented the tourbillon, and Breguet has unveiled new tourbillon watches. Each model incorporates Breguet's signature craftsmanship and innovative technology. This article will delve into Breguet's tourbillon and introduce the new watches.

A look back at Breguet and the tourbillon

　Abraham-Louis Breguet, the watchmaker, is said to have advanced the history of watchmaking by two centuries. His wide range of inventions laid the foundation for modern mechanical watches, including the automatic winding mechanism, the perpetual calendar mechanism, and the Breguet hairspring. Among these, the tourbillon is particularly symbolic. Breguet is said to have conceived the tourbillon around 1793-1795, and obtained a patent for it on June 26, 1801.

　The tourbillon is a mechanism designed to improve accuracy by equalizing the effects of gravity on the watch. Pocket watches were the standard portable timepieces of the time. When kept in a pocket, the watch's orientation naturally becomes fixed. This causes an imbalance in the hairspring due to gravity, impairing accuracy. The tourbillon houses the balance wheel and escapement in a cage-like part called a carriage, and counteracts this gravitational effect by rotating the carriage itself.

　Even in modern Breguet, the tourbillon remains an important mechanism featured in numerous models. Breguet unveiled its first wristwatch tourbillon, the "Ref. 3350," in 1989, and has since refined the technology. This year, marking the 225th anniversary of its patent in 1801, the company has released a new model that embodies the pinnacle of its technology to celebrate this milestone.

"Classic Tourbillon 7357"

　Let's announce the commemorative models for this year, marking the 255th anniversary of the patenting of the tourbillon. First up is the "Classic Tourbillon 7357".

　This model is a modern revival of the Ref. 3350, Breguet's first wristwatch tourbillon, which was released in 1989. While retaining the layout with a sub-dial for time display at 12 o'clock and a large opening at 6 o'clock, it adopts a case that incorporates the design code of the 250th anniversary model released in 2025.

　This collection includes two models: one with an anthracite-colored dial and a platinum case, and another with a silver-colored dial and an 18K Breguet gold case.

　Both dials are made of 18K Breguet gold. The sub-dials feature a Clous de Paris pattern, and their outer edges are adorned with a guilloché pattern of Glendorge. The classic design, combining elegant Breguet numeral indices and Breguet hands, is particularly appealing.

　The tourbillon, supported by a polished bridge, completes one rotation in 60 seconds. A three-pronged part extending from the center of the carriage serves as the seconds hand. This hand passes through the scale every 20 seconds to indicate the seconds. All the hands, including the hour and minute hands, are uniformly blue, but this is not blued steel, but 18K Breguet gold painted in French blue.

　The movement is Cal.187B. This is a hand-wound tourbillon movement that is a direct descendant of the Cal.558 used in Ref.3350, and features a Nivacron Breguet hairspring and a silicon escapement. Through the transparent case back, you can admire the guilloché engraving inspired by Dent de Volion, a mountain that symbolizes the Vallée de Joux, and the French blue insert that adorns its outer edge.

"Classic Tourbillon Sidéral 7255"

The "Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255" is part of a collection released to commemorate the company's 250th anniversary and is Breguet's first wristwatch equipped with a flying tourbillon. Now, a new model with a black aventurine enamel dial reminiscent of outer space has been added to the collection.

　At the 12 o'clock position is a sub-dial for time displaying the time, combining Breguet numeral indices and Breguet hands, while at the 6 o'clock position is a flying tourbillon that appears to float without a bridge. This flying tourbillon employs a mystery structure to accentuate its enigmatic appearance, giving the carriage, including not only the bridge on the top but also the mainplate, the impression that it is completely independent from the movement.

　The 38mm diameter case is made of platinum. It features a coin-edge finish on the middle case, a common feature of the classic collection, and soldered, straight-line lugs.

　The Cal.187M1 movement employs a Breguet hairspring made of Nivacron, exhibiting excellent resistance to magnetism and temperature changes.

Tradition Tourbillon Fusee 7047

　The constant force mechanism is considered one of Breguet's inventions. This mechanism improves accuracy by keeping the power transmitted from the mainspring constant. When the mainspring is fully wound, the torque is strong, and conversely, when it is not wound enough, the torque is weak.

The "Tradition Tourbillon Fusée 7047" employs a fusée chain, a constant force mechanism using a fine chain, inspired by the invention of Leonardo da Vinci.

　The basic design follows that of the "Tradition" collection. The movement's structure can be admired from the dial side, and the offset dial is adorned with French blue grand feu enamel. The French blue chain connecting the conical part adjacent to the dial to the mainspring, as well as the large tourbillon, can be fully appreciated.

　The 41mm diameter case is made of platinum. It features straight lugs and coin-edge decoration on the sides of the case. The Cal. 569, visible through the transparent case back, is a hand-wound movement with a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. You can admire the unique pocket watch-inspired bridges and polished gears.

"Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887"

　Abraham-Louis Breguet, a watchmaker with exceptional knowledge and skills in marine chronometers, was awarded the title of Royal Navy Watchmaker by King Louis XVIII on October 27, 1815. The "Marine" collection pays tribute to his achievements. The newly announced model is based on the "Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887," which debuted in 2024, and features a special dial.

　The entire dial depicts the night sky as seen from Paris on June 26, 1801, the day Breguet patented the tourbillon. This fantastical scene is rendered in transparent blue gradient grand feu enamel and hand-painted miniatures. What's more, it's even possible to personalize the depiction of the sky by specifying the date, location, and time.

　This watch features three complex mechanisms. One is a tourbillon located at the 5 o'clock position, another is a perpetual calendar with two sub-windows and a retrograde date display, and the third is a running equation of time. The running equation of time displays true solar time using a sun-shaped hand, in addition to the mean solar time indicated by the regular hour and minute hands.

　The automatic movement Cal.581DPE housed in this watch can be admired through the transparent case back. Thanks to the peripheral rotor, it is possible to appreciate the intricate decorations, such as the rosette ornament engraved on the mainspring barrel and the hand-engraved depiction of the 18th-century warship Royal Louis on the bridge.

"Experimental 1"

　Finally, we introduce the "Experimental 1," the first model in Breguet's "Experimental" collection, developed by their R&D (Research and Development) department. Although it will be unveiled in 2025, it is an indispensable piece when discussing Breguet's tourbillons, so we are including it here as well. This model is equipped with an innovative movement that delivers exceptional precision thanks to its constant-force magnetic tourbillon and ultra-high beat rate.

　The accuracy of a watch can be enhanced by maintaining a constant balance wheel amplitude, eliminating the effects of gravity, and providing shock resistance. In this model, the high oscillation frequency of 72,000 vibrations per hour allows the balance wheel amplitude to quickly recover to normal even if it temporarily increases or decreases. Furthermore, the tourbillon equalizes the gravitational force acting on the hairspring, and the magnetic pivot allows the balance staff to instantly return to the center of the bearing even if an impact is applied. This model overcomes the variables that affect the accuracy of a watch.

　The sapphire crystal dial allows you to admire the symmetrical structure of the movement. The time display is a regulator style inspired by the "No. 3448," with a small seconds subdial at 12 o'clock, a minute hand in the center, and an hour display at 6 o'clock.

　The case, which combines elegance and sportiness, is made of 18K Breguet gold. It is fitted with a rubber strap featuring an interchangeable system that allows for attachment and removal without the use of tools.