Since its founding in 2017, Biancher, a Swiss independent brand, has consistently focused on the production of tourbillon watches. In 2023, they quickly established their own workshop, and just two years later, they completed a timepiece equipped with their own in-house developed and manufactured movement. Now, Biancher has made its official debut in Japan with its latest creation, the "Ultravino Rotondo." This first-ever round-shaped timepiece showcases Biancher's uncompromising creativity, including its in-house developed movement.

This new 2026 model features the brand's first round case. In addition to a shock-resistant, in-house developed and manufactured automatic tourbillon movement, the case and bracelet utilize specially developed high-density carbon, making it suitable for active lifestyles. It comes with a rubber seam and a matching replacement rubber strap. Automatic movement (Cal. UR01). 29 jewels. 21,600 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. High-density carbon case (39.5mm diameter, 8.9mm thickness). 10 ATM water resistance. 14,850,000 yen (including tax).
Photographs by Masahiro Okamura (CROSSOVER)
Yuzo Takeishi: Editing and writing
Edited & Text by Yuzo Takeishi
[Article published on January 8, 2026]
A promising brand that established its own workshop just six years after its founding.
Based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, Biancher is an up-and-coming brand founded in October 2017 by Rodolfo Festa Biancher, originally from Italy, and Emmanuel Festa Biancher, originally from France. Rodolfo, the husband, was originally a successful entrepreneur in the fintech industry, creating financial services utilizing information technology. However, also an avid watch collector, he sold his business to fulfill his long-held dream of launching his own watch brand. He founded Biancher and started a family business in the field of mechanical watches together with his wife and three sons.
Biancher unveiled its first prototype, the "G5000 Active Tourbillon," in 2019, two years after its founding. This model combined an openworked dial with a tonneau-shaped case, and even at the prototype stage, it incorporated the brand's core features: a flying tourbillon with 5000G shock resistance and the golden ratio of 1:1.618. Due to the COVID-2 pandemic in 2020, the development period for this prototype was extended, during which time the movement was significantly improved. Thus, in 2021, the first commercially available model, the "Tourbillon B1.618 Openworked," was announced.
Since then, while continuing to develop models centered on the tourbillon, including those equipped with big date and GMT functions, the company established its own workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 2023. By employing watchmakers, decorators, movement designers, and CNC machine operators, the company is promoting vertical integration of its production system, and in 2025, it completed the "Ultravino Tonneau," which is equipped with an in-house developed and manufactured automatic tourbillon movement.

Since its founding, Biancher has consistently focused on producing tourbillon watches, but according to Rodolfo, their goal is not simply to "make a tourbillon," but to "redefine the performance of the tourbillon by utilizing modern watchmaking technology." "Therefore, we have created a tourbillon with 5000G of shock resistance, and have also pursued an ultra-thin design and a high level of hand-finishing. This approach embodies the brand's philosophy of combining superior aesthetics and traditional high-end watchmaking with advanced technology."
Furthermore, the golden ratio, which has been a core principle since the company's founding, is an ideal ratio that can be found not only in architecture and painting, but also in all aspects of nature, such as the structure of galaxies, the spirals of seashells, and human DNA. Many architects and artists have incorporated the golden ratio throughout history in order to create proportions that people instinctively perceive as "harmonious." Biancher has also adopted the golden ratio, which easily evokes a sense of harmony, as the brand's design philosophy, and has actively used the Fibonacci sequence, which is closely related to the golden ratio, as a design guideline in order to consistently reflect this golden ratio throughout the entire watch.
"When we founded Bianche, my wife and I wanted to do more than just use the golden ratio as a design criterion; we wanted to utilize it in a deeper way. Some watch brands incorporate the golden ratio into the dial layout or case size. But our goal was to incorporate the golden ratio into the entire design of the watch, from the movement to the case structure."

A refined new work created based on the philosophical concept of the golden ratio.
Biancher has consistently produced tonneau-shaped timepieces until now, but the new "Ultravino Rotondo," unveiled in 2026, adopts a round case for the first time in the brand's history. While the round shape is a universal form for watches, the brand's underlying philosophy and design codes are followed in this model as well, resulting in a well-balanced appearance that is characteristic of Biancher, while also showcasing the beauty of its mechanical mechanisms.
This is most evident in its frontal view. Visual noise has been eliminated from the bezel and case, and the openwork design further highlights the tourbillon, the star of this timepiece. Rodolfo explains that "showing the entire movement through openwork means that you can fully appreciate the modern and elegant look that comes from the meticulous design and careful finishing." In fact, at Biancher, decorative artisans spend a long time on finishing touches such as beveling, and the combination of these parts creates depth, which enhances the presence of the watch.

Furthermore, the case and bracelet are composed of sharp edges and multifaceted surfaces. Combined with the movement, which is assembled with a meticulous yet symmetrical layout in mind, this gives the watch a powerful, modern architectural presence. On the other hand, what catches the eye is the rubber seam inserted at the joint between the bezel and the case. This is an iconic design element that has been used in successive models since the debut Tourbillon B1.618 Openworked, and it plays a role in softening the serious impression within the solid case, which is unified in black or silver.
Of course, in terms of design, the golden ratio of 1:1.618, which is the cornerstone of watchmaking, is incorporated. The excellent balance you feel the moment you hold this watch in your hands is because the golden ratio has been thoroughly applied to every aspect of its design, from the case to the movement, bridges, and rotor. Rodolfo explains as follows:

"To achieve this, engineers and designers had to work closely together. We had to design the bridges, individual parts, and every line that makes up the structure of the movement based on this mathematical thinking. It was a much more labor-intensive process than typical watchmaking, but as a result, we were able to complete a model in which all the elements that make up the watch harmonize naturally."
Material selection that pursues both weight reduction and advanced features.
Another surprising aspect of the Ultrafino Rotondo is its lightness. Since its debut, Biancher has consistently used high-density carbon or Grade 5 titanium as the case material. Starting with the Ultrafino Tonneau in 2025, the same materials have been used for the integrated bracelet as well, and this creation follows that trend. As a result, the high-density carbon model weighs only 48g, and even the Grade 5 titanium model weighs just 75g.

Moreover, the carbon material used by Biancher is not a standard material available on the market. It is a unique high-density carbon specially designed for Biancher watches in collaboration with a leading European company specializing in advanced composite materials. It is made by compressing a carbon composite composed of 500 thin layers under high pressure, achieving high rigidity, scratch resistance, and durability.
Rodolfo explains, "High-density carbon, optimized to achieve superior impact and scratch resistance, as well as a distinctive aesthetic, is a material exclusive to Bianche. This material plays a central role in the brand's philosophy of pursuing high performance in modern luxury watches." Indeed, the organic look of this high-density carbon is an essential element in giving the Ultrafino Rotondo a modern appearance.
Furthermore, it's worth noting the high-precision machining of high-density carbon, which is notoriously difficult to process. The case and bracelet, with their complex combination of sharp edges and smooth surfaces, bring even greater aesthetic appeal to the design of this timepiece, which makes full use of the golden ratio. In other words, Biancher is not just focused on the golden ratio or the tourbillon; by consistently adhering to a philosophy in material selection as well, they are able to realize a high-performance tourbillon that can be worn every day.

The 3.85mm thick movement delivers both aesthetic appeal and shock resistance.
Another key feature of the Ultrafino Rotondo is the Cal.UR01 movement, which was developed and manufactured in-house. Its base was the Cal.UT01, which was installed in the 2025 Ultrafino Tonneau. Rather than simply creating a thin movement, the movement's design was re-examined to achieve the thinness, robustness, and reliability required for a "sports watch that can be used with peace of mind every day," and the research and development took more than two years.

While using a micro-rotor certainly makes it easier to thin the movement, Biancher prioritized the high winding efficiency of the center rotor and designed most of the main parts from scratch. They developed a suspended barrel, eliminating the conventional ratchet wheel, and rethought the layout of the gear train. As a result, they succeeded in developing the Cal.UT01, an automatic tourbillon movement that is ultra-thin at 3.85mm thick and with a tourbillon cage of 2.66mm, yet achieves a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Based on the performance, proportions, and design philosophy of this movement, the Cal.UR01 was developed.

Both the Cal.UT01 and Cal.UR01 in-house developed movements are equipped with specially designed winding and time adjustment mechanisms. These movements do not use a conventional setting lever (set lever), but instead employ a uniquely developed winding and time adjustment system with a cross-sectional gear transmission mechanism equipped with a unidirectional rotation prevention mechanism. This ensures that the winding stem always maintains an accurate position, reducing unnecessary friction during winding and time setting, resulting in a smooth operation.
Furthermore, it also features a unique shock-resistant system. The main plate has two spiral-shaped parts, and when the watch is subjected to a strong impact, these parts hold the rotor in place and absorb the inertial energy generated by its mass, thereby suppressing damage to the movement. Another noteworthy feature is the integrated shock-resistant system centered around a large KIF shock-resistant device in the regulating mechanism.
These movement ideas start with Rodolfo's vision and are developed through discussions with his family, but for some specialized mechanisms, they also collaborate with an external team of designers who previously worked at Renault & Papi. "The long-standing collaborative relationship we've built with them has enabled us to develop the latest movements and has also helped to improve the precision of our specialized skills in our own workshops," says Rodolfo.
Biancher has made its full-fledged debut in Japan with a new model that boasts a high level of perfection in every aspect, from its mechanism and exterior materials to its design. Considering the founder's passion for watches, the ideas that spring from it, and the fact that its own workshop is now fully operational, expectations are high for its future development.
Choose from the Ultrafino Rotondo lineup by accent color and material.
The Ultrafino Rotondo line features a total of six models. Exterior materials can be selected from high-density carbon, Grade 5 titanium, and 18K rose gold, with two rubber seam colors available for both carbon and titanium. The impression differs not only depending on the material but also on the color of the rubber seams, so consider the occasion and your outfit to find the perfect pair.

This model exudes strength with its high-density carbon exterior and vivid red rubber seams. It comes with a rubber strap in the same color as the seams. Automatic movement (Cal. UR01). 29 jewels. 21,600 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. High-density carbon case (39.5mm diameter, 8.9mm thickness). 10 ATM water resistance. 14,850,000 yen (including tax).

This watch features a Grade 5 titanium case combined with black rubber seams. Its basic design makes it easy to wear with any outfit or occasion. A black rubber strap is included. Automatic movement (Cal. UR01). 29 jewels. 21,600 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Titanium case (39.5mm diameter, 8.9mm thickness). 10 ATM water resistance. 13,750,000 yen (including tax).

This model features a Grade 5 titanium exterior combined with light blue rubber seams, giving it a light and agile appearance. It comes with a light blue strap to match the rubber seams. Automatic movement (Cal. UR01). 29 jewels. 21,600 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Titanium case (39.5mm diameter, 8.9mm thickness). 10 ATM water resistance. 13,750,000 yen (including tax).



