Making its debut at Watches & Wonders 2026, Corum garnered attention with the unveiling of its new generation "Admiral," featuring a completely redesigned case, bracelet, and movement. This iconic watch, reborn with sophisticated contemporary design, is the flagship that will lead Corum into the next phase of its rebranding efforts for the future.

Text by Shigeru Sugawara
Edited by Yuzo Takeishi
Edited by Yuzo Takeishi
[Article published in the July 2026 issue of Kronos Japan]
Aiming to revive the innovation that Admiral possessed in its heyday.
Founded in 1955 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a UNESCO World Heritage site in the Jura Mountains and one of the centers of the Swiss watch industry, Corum is a distinctive brand that has consistently pursued one-of-a-kind creations. Representative works such as the "Admiral's Cup" (now "Admiral"), which is related to the world of yacht racing; the "Golden Bridge," in which a mysterious baguette movement ticks away inside a sapphire crystal case; the "Coin," a wristwatch made by hollowing out a real gold coin; and the "Bubble," which took the world by storm with its unexpected domed design, have captivated avid watch enthusiasts in Japan as well.

Corum faced a turning point in 2025, its 70th anniversary. Haso Mehmedovich, who began his career as a watchmaker at Corum and later played a key role in developing the international market, acquired management control and embarked on the brand's continuation and relaunch.

Upon assuming the position of Chairman and CEO, he focused on reorganizing the collection through selection and concentration. One of the key pillars he designated was the Admiral. Under the policy of "restoring the innovativeness that the 1983 Admiral possessed and giving it the perfection that a mechanical watch should have originally been," he established the following four main development axes.
- Redesigned case
- New dial design
- A new bracelet with an integrated case.
- 100% in-house manufactured new movement
The dial processing was handled by the specialized company Montremo, and the development of the automatic winding movement was carried out in collaboration with partner Concept.
The task of designing the new Admiral was entrusted to none other than Emmanuel Guét, famous for his work on Audemars Piguet's "Royal Oak Offshore." The reason for choosing him was, "He is someone who can design a watch that is not just a product, but a cultural entity, and he succeeded in evolving the masterpiece Royal Oak to suit modern sensibilities without betraying its legacy." Legacy and contemporary—those must have been the guiding principles leading Admiral into a new generation. And Mehmedovic conveyed only three things to him.
- The signature dodecagonal bezel remains unchanged.
- The bracelet appears to blend seamlessly into the case.
- The index of international maritime signal flags is more understated and modern.
Thus, Emmanuel Guét created the initial line, which was then completed by the EDGE team (Olivier Roux and Fabrice Gonet). Corum immediately showcased its achievements to the world at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2026 in April. The new Admiral collection, featuring 11 models in 39mm and 36mm diameters, attracted considerable attention.
Now, let's focus on the stainless steel model with a 39mm diameter case and take a look at the details of the renewal. First, there are the three distinctive gradient dials. The new Blue Wave dial best conveys Admiral's worldview, which is related to the sea and sailing. This newly developed dial has a texture that gives the impression of the movement of waves, but is neither regular nor mechanical, and the color itself takes center stage. The indices also use colors derived from international maritime signal flags. However, Mehmedovic recalls, "Emmanuel and I inherited the motif of international maritime signal flags, the trapezoidal shape, and their role as signals, but we aimed for a sophisticated atmosphere befitting a luxury watch, rather than the impression of a yacht race pennant."

In contrast, the indices on the petroleum and meteorite dials retain the patterns of international maritime signal flags but are replaced with a monochrome design. This is based on the idea that "the indices should not assert themselves with color, but rather blend into the dial and function as part of its structure." In addition, the monochrome indices undoubtedly enhance the radial texture of the petroleum dial and the Widmanstätten pattern of the meteorite dial, creating a modern and stylish impression.



The case shape and size have also been redesigned. The new 39mm diameter case is smaller than the 42mm and 45mm cases in the previous collection, making it ideal for everyday wear. The bezel shape is also new. While maintaining the dodecagonal shape of the outer bezel, the inner part that contacts the sapphire crystal is now circular, just like the original from 1983, and the top surface is flat. In other words, it has moved away from the recent style that emphasized the Admiral's originality and presence by making both the inner bezel and the sapphire crystal dodecagonal, and returned to its roots.

Furthermore, the new case is also interesting in terms of its continuity with the integrated bracelet. There are no conventional lugs, and the bracelet's end pieces tuck beneath the dodecagonal bezel, creating a seamless, integrated look that is reminiscent of the 83 Admiral.
The newly introduced integrated bracelet is clearly inspired by the 1983 Admiral, and is a modern reinterpretation of it. "The bracelet from that time still has appeal even today, and what we wanted to carry on was the double-polished V-shaped line that makes it instantly recognizable as an Admiral," they said. The distinctive V-shaped bracelet is meticulously designed, from the thickness and range of motion of the links to the taper angle and clasp structure, and is also characterized by its tool-free, easy-to-use push-button integrated into the case.

Under the new management structure, they completed the Cal.CO231, an in-house movement jointly developed with their partner Concept, in just eight months. This new movement, which prioritizes not only high performance but also maintainability and durability, is an important step for Corum as they move towards a gradual return to 100% in-house movement manufacturing.

The fact that Mehmedovich was able to rebuild the brand in such a short time is because he is a Corum-trained watchmaker and possesses a deep passion for Corum. I can't help but look forward to its future development, including its other collections.

Among the new generation Admiral models, which come in six variations with a 39mm diameter case, three stainless steel models featuring gradient dials with unique textures and colors showcase Corum's innovative sensibility and modern expression. A newly developed blue dial with a wave pattern; a petroleum (dark-toned verdigris) dial with a radial pattern (right); and a gray dial made from processed real meteorite (left). All are automatic (Cal. CO231), with 31 jewels, 28,800 vibrations/hour, and a power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (39mm diameter, 8.9mm thickness). 5 ATM water resistance. (Right) ¥2,640,000 (tax included). (Left) ¥3,410,000 (tax included).
https://corumwatch.jp/products/?collection=admiral



