A reinterpretation of its origins. Roger Dubuis' Excalibur collection now features a new perpetual calendar movement.

Roger Dubuis, which champions "hyper-horology" that breaks conventional notions of luxury watches, is now once again focusing on retrograde movements. The "bi-retrograde," which achieves a high level of balance between aesthetics and practicality with its repeating calendar hands positioned on both sides, was the first complication created by the founder the year after the maison began its journey. In 2026, the 30th anniversary of the birth of the bi-retrograde model, a new model equipped with a perpetual calendar movement will also be introduced, demonstrating that the maison's "origins" are evolving with an eye on the future. Those who love watches should take to heart the meaning of return and innovation that Roger Dubuis is proposing.

Three works that demonstrate a willingness to innovate and drive tradition into the future.

　Roger Dubuis has consistently created new and complex movements, captivating enthusiasts with its avant-garde designs. Its rich history began with the evolution of the classic retrograde mechanism.

　Founder Roger Dubuis, after gaining experience at several brands, worked on the creation of complex mechanisms at a long-established Geneva watchmaking company. Later, he opened a small watchmaking workshop and, while working on the restoration of antique watches, met movement designer Jean-Marc Videresch. Together, they designed and manufactured a complication for a jeweler, completing a perpetual calendar module with two retrograde displays for the day and date symmetrically positioned on the left and right sides of the dial.

　The retrograde mechanism, which instantly resets the hands to zero when they reach their endpoint, has existed since the days of pocket watches. However, it was susceptible to shocks, and incorporating it into a wristwatch required advanced technology. The two re-examined the mechanism, streamlined the manufacturing process, and developed a simpler, more shock-resistant retrograde. In 1989, they jointly obtained a patent for their unique bi-retrograde system.

　Mr. Dubuis established his eponymous brand in 1995, and the bi-retrograde movement was also featured in the maison's first complication watch, which was released the following year. Since then, the bi-retrograde movement has become an iconic symbol of Roger Dubuis, bringing brilliance and dynamism to the watch face.

　Roger Dubuis, which will celebrate its 30th anniversary in 2025, is once again engaging with its signature complex mechanisms under the leadership of new CEO David Chaumet, who advocates a return to its roots. This year, two new models featuring bi-retrograde movements have been added to its flagship "Excalibur" collection.

　One such example is the "Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar." What immediately catches the eye is its beautiful appearance. The openworked dial is composed of nine layers, and together with the various counters made of astral blue mother-of-pearl and the moon phase display featuring an 18K pink gold moon motif floating on an aventurine disc, it creates a fantastical look, as if gazing into a galaxy.

　The watch is equipped with the new Caliber RD850. The difference from the Maison's conventional perpetual calendar is that it has a separate corrector for the month display. Being able to manually set only the month display allows for quicker calendar adjustments and reduces stress on the mechanism.

　The accuracy of the moon phase display is also noteworthy. Typical moon phase displays calculate the lunar cycle as 29.5 days, resulting in an error of one day every two to three years. In contrast, this watch calculates the cycle as 29 days, 12 hours, and 45 minutes, which is closer to the actual lunar cycle. It displays the accurate moon phase for approximately 122 years. If adjustment is needed, it can be done with a single click. Of course, the quality of the RD850 is guaranteed by the Geneva Seal. The seal also emphasizes the artistry of the finish, and this caliber has been given 19 different finishes. What will particularly appeal to watch enthusiasts is the exquisite detail of the inner angle finish. The W-shaped bridges supporting each retrograde have a total of 14 inner angles, each of which is meticulously polished and shines beautifully.

　This is the birth of a new masterpiece that is a legitimate evolution of the perpetual calendar with biretrograde display that Mr. Dubuis has been pursuing for so long.

　Roger Dubuis is a brand that has pioneered sporty complication watches that can be worn with confidence even in active situations. The other new addition to the Excalibur bi-retrograde series, introduced on the right page, is a reminder of that history.

　This model replaces the 18K pink gold case of the "Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Calendar," which was unveiled last year to commemorate the Maison's 30th anniversary and received a great response, with a 316L stainless steel exterior. It features a bracelet and a multi-layered dial in the Maison's iconic bright cosmic blue. It is a Roger Dubuis-esque luxury sports watch with a sportier and more urban feel.

　The movement used is the same Cal.RD840 as in the 18K pink gold case model. It is an improved version of the Cal.RD14, which was the company's first in-house automatic movement, and of course meets the performance and aesthetic requirements for Geneva Seal certification.

　Incidentally, this model is the first all-stainless steel Excalibur with a bi-retrograde movement, and it also has the characteristics of an entry-level model. Nevertheless, its sense of luxury is exceptional. The combination of polished, shot-blasted, and satin-brushed finishes allows the entire exterior to gleam richly with the movement of the wrist. However, the excessive ostentation seen in Roger Dubuis at one point has been toned down, and the overall impression is refined. With a slim case that makes it comfortable to wear, it seems likely to be useful in a wide range of situations, from weekends to business. The current Excalibur series features a system that allows you to easily change straps without tools. This model also comes with a blue rubber strap, which is an attractive feature as you can choose according to your outfit of the day.

　On the other hand, for those who prefer a more classic and elegant model, we recommend the Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Calendar in an 18K pink gold case. The contrast between the pink gold and the white mother-of-pearl used on the outer edge of the dial is beautiful, resulting in a dignified and refined finish. Roger Dubuis was also a pioneer in using pink gold and mother-of-pearl in men's watches in the early 2000s. This aspect, which evokes that history, is a major attraction of this model.

　It should be noted that both the perpetual calendar model and the all-stainless steel model introduced earlier utilize a new 40mm case that redefines Excalibur, but this model served as the starting point for them. The new bi-retrograde design code, which further accentuates the symmetrical form by cutting out a portion of the dial with openwork, was also introduced for the first time in this model. In that sense, this model is the first to skillfully reconstruct Roger Dubuis' original bi-retrograde for the next generation. It also has the potential to increase in value in the future.

　In any case, the three works introduced here convey the weight of Roger Dubuis' 30-year journey and impress upon us that their creativity has entered a new stage. Returning to the origins does not mean going back to the past. Through the revived biretrograde, Roger Dubuis demonstrates a strong will for innovation to drive tradition into the future. When we look back on the history of the Maison in the next 30 years, these three works will surely be remembered as important milestones.