In July 2026, Girard-Perregaux released the "Laureato Turquoise Blue" in a limited edition of 30 pieces for the Japanese market. But don't underestimate this timepiece. Despite employing an enamel dial, which tends to be thicker, it's a masterpiece that has been packaged as a true "luxury sports" timepiece. Masayuki Hirota, editor-in-chief of the luxury watch magazine "Chronos Japan" and webChronos, explains this special Laureato.
Text by Masayuki Hirota(Chronos-Japan)
[Article published on January 24, 2026]
Girard-Perregaux achieves a "luxury sports" look with enamel.
Enamel dials are made by applying glaze to a metal disc and firing it at approximately 800°C. Many enthusiasts admire their beauty, but for watchmakers, there is nothing more troublesome. Enamel dials, which are made by repeatedly applying and firing the glaze, inevitably become thick. Therefore, they do not fit into cases designed for thin metal dials. In addition, the vitreous enamel is susceptible to stress, and even slight distortion can cause cracks. As a result, many watches with enamel dials have often been dress watches with thick cases. What makes the "Laureato Turquoise Blue," a limited edition of 30 pieces for Japan announced by Girard-Perregaux, interesting is that it deliberately deviates from this convention and yet skillfully puts it together as a timepiece.
Automatic movement (Cal.GP01800). 28 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 54 hours. Stainless steel case (42.00mm diameter, 10.68mm thickness). 10 ATM water resistance. Limited edition of 30 pieces in Japan. 2,772,000 yen (tax included).
Released in 1975, the Laureato is undoubtedly a pioneer of luxury sports watches. However, when you pick up a model revived since 2015, the impression is somewhat different from that of a typical "luxury sports watch." The thin case and slim, integrated bracelet give it a modesty that makes it more like a dress watch with a bracelet than the robustness of a sports watch. The current Laureato faithfully inherits this character. However, adding an enamel dial to it is somewhat contradictory, because if the thickness increases, the Laureato's virtues are easily lost.
However, Girard-Perregaux has the background to make such "impossible" things possible. The Sowind Group, to which the company belongs, owns Donzé Cadrans, a renowned manufacturer of enamel dials. If a manufacturer relies on external suppliers for enamel, they have no choice but to adjust the case to match the expected thickness of the dial. However, if the manufacturer is nearby, they can design the case and dial simultaneously. The case thickness of 10.68mm, despite the enamel dial, would not have been possible without the strength of the Sowind Group.
Incidentally, this isn't the first time a Laureato has featured an enamel dial. In 2025, the "Laureato Infinite Grey" with a bluish-gray dial was released. The case and movement are the same as this model, so it's safe to say that Laureatos with enamel dials are already forming their own distinct lineage.
The Laureato, unveiled in 2025 with an enamel dial, features an automatic movement (Cal. GP01800), 28 jewels, 28,800 vibrations per hour, and a power reserve of approximately 54 hours. It has a stainless steel case (42mm diameter, 10.68mm thickness) and is water-resistant to 100 meters. Price: ¥2,662,000 (including tax).
What's ingenious is their approach to cracking. Enamel dials can crack if pressed incorrectly, but the Laureato employs a structure where a flange is placed around the outer edge of the dial, sandwiched between the bezel and case. This design avoids applying direct stress to the enamel surface while ensuring precise positioning, and it's something that could only be achieved through accumulated know-how. This is the reason why the combination of enamel and "luxury sports" is possible, something rarely seen in other companies.
The dial consists of a metal disc with a sunray motif, overlaid with an enamel layer. The technique itself is the same as that used in the earlier "Laureato 42mm Eternity Edition." The finer the underlying motif, the more difficult it is for air bubbles to escape from within the enamel. The fact that this is not noticeable in this model is likely due to the improved skills of Donzé Cadlan. In addition, lighter colors like turquoise blue are more prone to showing variations in the firing process compared to darker colors, resulting in a lower yield. The fact that this was chosen despite these limitations is what makes this model so appealing. The lighter color further enhances the allure of the enamel, which changes color depending on the lighting.
Girard-Perregaux cites "the sea of Yokohama" as the reason for choosing turquoise blue for this watch. They say they chose it as a motif based on the clear blue that François Perregaux, who came to Japan during the late Edo period and paved the way for the export of Swiss watches to Japan, saw. If the finish is poor, it won't be convincing, but the vibrant enamel dial of this watch is attractive enough even without this story.
Behold the enamel dial that shines with genuine passion!
With its refined packaging and attractive enamel dial, this timepiece is priced at 2,772,000 yen (including tax). Considering its features, this is a very strategic price. In addition, the Cal.GP01800 movement it houses is also quite good. Despite its slim profile of 3.97mm, it boasts a power reserve of approximately 54 hours, and the rotor's rotation noise is quiet, while the winding of the mainspring is smooth, making it a fitting piece for this price range.
The appeal of the Laureato remains unchanged: it doesn't have any unnecessary embellishments. This model retains the same case, bracelet, and movement, simply replacing the dial with a vibrant enamel. However, considering that no other similar models using enamel exist, and that turquoise blue enamel dials are extremely rare, this is by no means a cheap limited edition. It shows the seriousness of Girard-Perregaux.
