What are the "luxury dress watches that can be worn every day" selected by watch writer Shinichi Sato?

Watch writer Shinichi Sato focuses on the latest lineup of dress watches and introduces five carefully selected models that he recommends. The selection criteria were models that offer styling and luxurious details that allow you to enjoy the world of dress watches, while also possessing practical features such as water resistance of 3 atmospheres or more and a sufficient power reserve.

Introducing five carefully selected models that allow you to enjoy the world of dress watches in your everyday life.

　This time, we'll focus on dress watches and introduce five carefully selected models. Historically, dress watches have repeatedly attempted to strike a balance between formal styling for elegant occasions and styling that enhances durability for everyday use without sacrificing dressiness. If you want a more dressy look, a compact and thin silhouette is desirable. However, this thinness often comes at the expense of practical features such as water resistance, shock resistance, and power reserve, which tend to be insufficient by modern standards.

　Against this backdrop, in recent years, many dress watches that can be worn every day have been proposed, incorporating the latest technology to enhance their practicality. Therefore, this time, we have selected and will introduce models that allow you to enjoy the world of dress watches with their stylish designs and luxurious details, while also possessing practical features such as water resistance of 3 atmospheres or more and a sufficient power reserve.

Longines "Longines Master Collection" Ref.L2.843.4.73.2

　The first watch we'll be looking at is the Longines Master Collection Ref. L2.843.4.73.2. This model was released in 2022 to commemorate the brand's 190th anniversary. Its concept involved revisiting and redesigning many of the masterpieces created throughout the brand's long 190-year history, incorporating their essence. The model we'll be focusing on features a small seconds subdial and a leather strap.

　The most distinctive feature is the engraved indices. While such indices were once hand-carved by craftsmen, this model utilizes the latest machine processing techniques, incorporating an effort to reduce costs. The fact that it offers these three-dimensional indices, which create a classic impression, at an affordable price is one of its appealing features.

　The overall design features a classic style with a circular dial and blue leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, but the case and lugs are integrated, giving it a modern silhouette primarily based on curves. Thus, the presence of a contemporary essence, which sets it apart from simple reissue models, is a defining characteristic of this timepiece.

　It is equipped with the automatic Cal.L893.5 movement, which boasts a power reserve of approximately 72 hours, making it both modern and highly practical. Furthermore, in addition to this model's 38.5mm case and silver dial combination, various variations are available, including salmon pink dials, anthracite dials, and a design with 40mm central hour, minute, and second hands, so you're sure to find one that suits your taste. As a classic dress watch proposed by Longines, a brand with a long history, this is a model worth paying attention to.

Citizen Eco-Drive One, Ref. AQ5022-02E

　There are several elements that contribute to the "dress watch" look, but thinness is a crucial factor. One model that exemplifies this thinness is the Citizen Eco-Drive One Ref. AQ5022-02E. The Eco-Drive One series features models that push Citizen's proud light-powered technology to its limits in pursuit of ultra-thinness.

　The Eco-Drive One comes in several designs, and the one we'll be focusing on here is a small seconds model that evokes a classic, traditional dress watch. The case is compact, with a diameter of 36.6mm, and the finished watch is ultra-thin, measuring just 4.5mm thick.

　When pursuing thinness, the space between the dial and the crystal also becomes narrower, which tends to reduce the three-dimensional effect on the dial. In contrast, this model uses a 1mm thick movement, reducing the volume occupied by the movement and securing space on the dial side. This makes it possible to place three-dimensional indexes and sub-dial frames.

　The Ref. AQ5022-02E, which we've selected, features a sleek black dial combined with an amber-yellow case treated with Citizen's proprietary surface hardening process, "Duratect," creating an elegant and sophisticated look. The Cal. 8845 Eco-Drive movement, powered by light, can run for approximately seven months on a full charge, ensuring excellent practicality.

Orient Star "M45 F7 Small Second" Ref.RK-BS0002S

　Next, let's introduce another Japanese-made dress watch. The Orient Star "M45 F7 Small Seconds" Ref. RK-BS0002S is a model with a round case, central hour and minute hands, a small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock, and a power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock. Orient and Orient Star offer many models with power reserve indicators, and this particular model can be said to have specifications typical of Orient.

　The case diameter is 39.0mm, a standard size for modern watches. Looking at the details, the ivory-colored dial is combined with leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, Roman numerals, a railway minute track, and a brown leather strap, creating a design that strongly emphasizes classic style. The appeal of this watch lies in its combination of a modern size that is easy to incorporate into various outfits and classic craftsmanship. In terms of price, it may not be in the "luxury" category compared to the other models featured in this article. However, the high quality of the dial and the exquisite craftsmanship of the hands give it a sense of luxury, so we have selected it as a "luxury" dress watch.

　This timepiece is equipped with the automatic Cal.F7H44 movement, boasting a power reserve of approximately 50 hours and JIS Class 1 magnetic resistance, making it a perfect fit for modern lifestyles. At 132,000 yen (including tax), it's the most accessible of the watches featured here, making it a good option for someone looking for their first mechanical dress watch.

Rolex "Perpetual 1908" Ref. 52508

　Next, we'll introduce two highly-regarded, high-end models. The first is the Rolex "Perpetual 1908" Ref. 52508. The Perpetual 1908 is a collection released in 2023, and its model name is derived from 1908, the year the "Rolex" trademark was officially registered in Switzerland. As befits a collection bearing a historical year, it features a high level of craftsmanship, incorporating the watchmaking technology that Rolex has refined over many years.

　The dial design features Arabic numeral indices at 3, 9, and 12 o'clock, bar indices for the others, and a small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock, creating a classic feel reminiscent of the early "Oyster Perpetual" models. At the same time, the high-quality finish on the hands and indices, along with the slender bezel that combines fluting and a domed shape, give it a modern touch.

　Now, Rolex's "Perpetual" refers to the automatic winding mechanism developed in 1931. While automatic winding mechanisms had been developed before, the perfection of Rolex's Perpetual was high, becoming one of the factors that further enhanced the company's reputation and remains an icon to this day. This model is equipped with the Cal. 7140 automatic winding movement, which traces its lineage back to this history and was developed for the Perpetual 1908. The Cal. 7140 achieves the classic small seconds design of the Perpetual 1908 while incorporating a silicon Syloxi hairspring and a highly efficient Chronergy escapement for magnetic resistance and stable accuracy, as well as a Paraflex shock absorber for shock resistance, and a power reserve of approximately 66 hours, giving it modern performance. Furthermore, its slim design results in a finished thickness of 9.50mm, which is another attractive feature of this dress watch. Furthermore, the Perpetual 1908 features a transparent case back, which is unusual for Rolex, allowing you to admire the highly refined Cal. 7140 movement.

　Thus, the way it combines design and practicality at such a high level is truly characteristic of Rolex, making it a watch that deserves to be featured.

Blancpain Villeret Ultra Slim Ref. 6224N 1142 55B

　Finally, let me introduce the "Villeret Ultra Thin" Ref. 6224N 1142 55B, one of Blancpain's masterpiece dress watches, a brand with a history of over 290 years since its founding. Blancpain is a brand founded in 1735 by Jean-Jacques Blancpain in Villeret, located in the Jura Mountains of Switzerland. Blancpain's current lineup is clear: the "Fifty Fathoms," which traces its lineage back to the progenitor of modern diver's watches; the "Air Command" pilot chronograph; the ladies' model "Ladybird"; the "Métiers d'Art," which features artistic dials crafted with artisanal skill; and the "Villeret," named after the brand's founding place, which represents the line of dress watches.

　For a long time, Villeret has adhered to a dressy design code, featuring a round case, slender and delicate lugs, and a simple, essential dial with Roman numerals in many models. The Villeret Ultra Thin, which we will be discussing here, inherits this design code and features an ivory-colored opaline dial. Furthermore, with the Villeret refresh in 2025, Jean-Jacques Blancpain's initials "JB" are placed at the 12 o'clock position.

　With a case diameter of 38.00mm, and true to its "ultra-slim" name, the watch's finished thickness is just 8.35mm, making it a compact and thin dress watch with an appealing silhouette. This silhouette is achieved through the use of the Cal. 1150 automatic movement. Despite having a movement thickness of only 3.25mm, the Cal. 1150 employs a silicon balance spring to enhance magnetic resistance and operational stability, and boasts a power reserve of approximately 100 hours. This combination of thinness and high practicality is a major reason why this watch deserves attention.

　If your budget allows, I recommend considering the Villeret Ultra Slim, which combines iconic styling that has been loved for many years with modern performance.