A deep dive into the new Omega Speedmaster 38! Discover the seven different facets of this chronograph.

This article delves into the seven models in Omega's "Speedmaster 38" collection, which was announced as a new release for 2026. Featuring round sub-dials and a wide bezel, this collection includes a no-date black dial reminiscent of the "Moonwatch," as well as six colorful date models.

Seven new models have been added to the "Speedmaster 38" collection.

　When you think of Speedmaster, the first thing that comes to mind is probably the "Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional." This watch, which has a deep connection to NASA's space program, has maintained its basic design without significant changes to its appearance to this day.

　However, a look at the history of the Speedmaster reveals an astonishing variety of variations. In particular, the automatic winding models have seen the birth of numerous derivative models, starting with the "Ref. ST376.0822" released in 1987, including models with date displays, triple calendar models, and the "Speedmaster Racing." If the manual winding models are the ones that uphold tradition, then the automatic winding models can be said to be the ones that have expanded the possibilities of the Speedmaster. The "Speedmaster 38," which is currently part of the standard automatic winding model lineup, is also a collection that follows in that tradition.

　This year, seven new variations have been added to the Speedmaster 38 lineup. Common to all of them are a compact case with a diameter of 38mm and a thickness of 14.75mm, and 100m water resistance, making them suitable for everyday use. They feature a box-shaped sapphire crystal and are powered by either the automatic Cal. 3330 or Cal. 3332 movement.

　In this new model, the sub-dials have been changed from the traditional oval shape to a round shape, and the lettering on the dial has been streamlined to a minimum. The bezel has a thicker, classic style, and the tachymeter scale employs the so-called "dot over 90" design, with a dot placed diagonally above the number 90. As Omega itself explains, "We have come closer than ever to the aesthetics and spirit embodied by the Moonwatch," resulting in a design that is more conscious of its connection to the Moonwatch than ever before.

First, let's take a look at the black dial.

　Among the seven new models, the one that is likely to attract particular attention from watch enthusiasts is the "Ref. 324.30.38.50.01.002" with its black dial. Omega President and CEO Reynald Aeschlimann stated that the Speedmaster 38 has "always inherited the design codes of the 'Moonwatch' since its inception," and that with this update, the aim was to "further develop the inspiration from the 'Moonwatch'." This black dial model is perhaps the most striking example of that statement.

　The watch features a black aluminum bezel paired with a black dial that has been varnished and then given a matte finish. The hands and indices are coated with white Super-LumiNova, and the date display at the 6 o'clock position has been omitted. The bracelet, like that of the Moonwatch, is made up of three brushed links and two polished small links.

　However, this model is not simply a Moonwatch with a reduced case diameter of 38mm. The difference is most evident in the placement of the three sub-dials. In Moonwatches equipped with Lemania-type hand-wound movements, the sub-dials are positioned relatively close to the center. In contrast, in this model, the sub-dials are further outwards, creating a layout that emphasizes a sense of compactness.

　This design brings to mind the original Speedmaster Reduced, particularly the Ref. 3539.50. With its black dial, three sub-dials positioned towards the outside, black tachymeter bezel, and compact case, it's certainly not a direct reissue, but it shares design elements reminiscent of the Moonwatch and the character of a "small-diameter automatic Speedmaster."

　For those who want to enjoy the world of Moonwatch but prefer something more compact and easy to wear, the black dial of this new model perfectly embodies the concept of a "little Moonwatch."

Pay attention to the subtle differences in specifications among the six Date models.

　While the black dial model is non-date, the remaining six models feature a date display at the 6 o'clock position. What's interesting is that they didn't simply change the dial color; they also meticulously altered the bezel material and finish to match the character of each model. The use of polished and brushed finishes on the case and bracelet allows them to appear both sporty and dressy.

　The lacquered white dial is paired with a blue ceramic bezel featuring a tachymeter scale in white enamel. The hands and indices are blue, created using CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition) processing, and the date display uses a slightly thinner font.

　In contrast, the Silvery Dial features a warm gray aluminum bezel. The PVD-coated opaline silver dial is combined with Sedna™ gold PVD-coated hands and indices, and the use of brown for the sub-dials creates a soft color scheme.

　Two bicolor models are also available. One is an opaline silver model combining 18K Moonshine™ gold with a green aluminum bezel ring. The other is a model that inherits the "cappuccino" style that is symbolic of the original Speedmaster 38, combining 18K Sedna™ gold, a brown aluminum bezel, and an ivory and brown dial. In both cases, the small links of the bracelet are made of 18K gold, giving them a glamorous look.

　Furthermore, the two models in ice blue and white mother-of-pearl feature a bezel set with a total of 1.53 carats and 52 diamonds, blending the sporty chronograph origins of the Speedmaster with the splendor of a jewelry watch. Of particular note is the white mother-of-pearl dial. The thinly sliced ​​mother-of-pearl is delicately crafted, with the sub-dial area slightly engraved and record-like grooves added. The date window is also meticulously finished, with a smooth surface. Many brands use mother-of-pearl, but a closer look at the details reveals Omega's extraordinary craftsmanship.

　Ceramics and aluminum, stainless steel and gold, and diamonds. While all are 38mm Speedmaster models, the use of different materials and finishes for each model creates a remarkably wide range of characters. The joy of choosing one to match your preferences, attire, and usage is part of the appeal of the new Speedmaster 38.

Highly reliable automatic chronograph movement

　The movements used are the automatic Cal.3330 and Cal.3332. The six models with a date display are equipped with the Cal.3330, while only the non-date black dial model is equipped with the Cal.3332. All models have a power reserve of approximately 52 hours.

　Tracing the roots of the Cal.3330 leads us to the Cal.7753, a modified version of Valjoux's Cal.7750. Based on a highly reliable and robust automatic chronograph, Omega incorporated modern specifications such as a Co-Axial escapement and a silicon balance spring. It is a movement that, while originating from a general-purpose automatic chronograph, incorporates Omega's unique technologies.

　Furthermore, the method of quickly setting the date on the Date model also has a distinctive feature that reflects its origins. Unlike the common method of setting the date using the crown, the date is adjusted by pressing a collector located on the side of the case.

　On the other hand, the Cal.3332 omits the date mechanism. While a date display would be more convenient from a purely functional standpoint, its deliberate omission in the black dial version highlights the symmetrical layout of the three counters. The fact that the difference in movement is not merely a difference in specifications but is also utilized to create a distinctive design character is another characteristic of the new Speedmaster 38.

The potential of the Speedmaster is still limitless.

　What Omega has done with this new model is not a complete overhaul of the Speedmaster 38. While the basic configuration of the 38mm case and automatic winding remains the same, they have made revisions to the details, such as changing the oval sub-dials to circular ones and redesigning the tachymeter bezel to a more classic shape. Through these accumulation of subtle refinements, the connection to the Moonwatch has become clearer than ever before.

　The most symbolic example of this is the non-date black dial. While incorporating design codes from the Moonwatch, it boasts practical features such as a compact 38mm case, automatic movement, and 100m water resistance. Furthermore, the arrangement of the sub-dials, reminiscent of the automatic models of yesteryear, reconstructs various elements of past Speedmaster models within a single timepiece.

　On the other hand, it's also worth noting that they simultaneously released models in white, silver, bicolor, and diamond-set versions. In stark contrast to the Moonwatch Professional, which maintains its basic form, the Speedmaster continues to explore new possibilities by changing the size, functions, materials, and colors. This is a legitimate inheritance of the role that previous automatic winding models have played.

　Beyond simply upholding the Moonwatch tradition, this new model explores what can be created from it. Even after more than half a century of history, the Speedmaster still holds new possibilities.