[Geneva Diary - Summer] Day 2: Pushing my tired body to the limit, the watch-related travels continue endlessly.

2026.09.12

From September 2nd to 6th, 2026, I covered the Geneva Watch Days in Geneva, Switzerland. Following my coverage of the new product fair in April, I will share my experiences of this late summer event, including both joy and sorrow (mostly sadness), in this diary format.

Take a commemorative photo with the staff dressed in safari style.

The Gallet, formerly known as House of Brands, has been revived. Following the launch of its first new products since its revival, a special event venue was set up at the Breitling boutique in Geneva. A commemorative photo was taken with the staff, who were dressed in safari style, reflecting the Gallet's "Wanderlust" concept—the pursuit of adventure and exploration. The photo was taken by interpreter Yuko Sakata.

[Geneva Diary - Summer] Day 1: Interviewed Otsuka Low-Tech → Oris → NAOYA HIDA & Co. Also, check out the 'Watch Terminology Dictionary'!

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[Geneva Diary - Summer] Day 0: 1 yen turns into 48 Swiss francs. Covering the new watch trade show again!

FEATURES

Chieko Tsuruoka (Chronos Japan): Photos and text
Photographs & Text by Chieko Tsuruoka (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published on January 11, 2026]


Gallet → Bulgari → and once again, I found solace in L'Epée 1839.

 Day two of Geneva Watch Days (GWD). This morning, I got out of bed after only three hours of sleep, did some work on my PC, ate breakfast, and took the SBB train from Annemas station to downtown Geneva. On the second day, I already feel heavy. The thought crosses my mind that it might be due to my age, but then I remind myself, "No, I'm eternally 28..."

 Dragging my heavy body, I arrived at the Four Seasons Hotel. I met up with my interpreter, Yuko Sakata. Ms. Sakata had also accompanied me on my GWD coverage in 2024. She is a woman who has worked as an interpreter in the watch industry for a long time, and she has a deep understanding of products and technology, so it was very reassuring to have her accompany me again this time (although she is a bit strict).

 Anyway, our first stop is Gallet. Gallet is a watch brand that was founded in 1862 and, after a period of dormancy, has been relaunched under the House of Brands as a sister brand of Breitling. As a signal of its revival, it has released a wide variety of new watches at GWD.

Georges Kahn, CEO of House of Brands

Georges Kahn, CEO of House of Brands, took the stage. He's tough, considering he was probably drinking late into the night at the Miles Davis 100th birthday party the previous evening.

 Gallet's brand concept is "Wanderlust." Based on themes of adventure and a longing for travel, they have launched new watches that are both functional and reflect Gallet's history, targeting modern adventurers and outdoor enthusiasts. The enthusiasm of media and retailers from various countries for touching and feeling the actual watches after the presentation was very evident.


The new "Flying Officer Automatic 40" is quite nice! The dial has good color reproduction, and the bezel has a nice click feel. The crown couldn't be operated because the hands were fixed in place. Apparently, Gallet products are manufactured under Breitling's technology and quality standards, and the after-sales service system is also shared. This should provide a great deal of peace of mind for users.


The "Multichron Sport Chronograph 41" features a striking combination of four colors: blue, orange, black, and white.


This is also a Multichron Sport Chronograph 41 model with a "reverse panda dial." The hands weren't fixed, so I operated the crown. I didn't find it difficult to operate, which was typical of Breitling, a company accustomed to making tool watches.


My personal favorite is this one! "Gallet Classics: Tribute to Multichron Yachting." This watch is based on the "Multichron Yachting Big Eye Chronograph," a chronograph developed in the 1960s.


The "Multichron Pilot Chronograph 42." Gallet has released a truly diverse range of new models, with seven in the collection alone. Furthermore, each model comes in variations of straps and dial colors, making it a strong presence immediately after its revival.

 All of these products boast extremely high exterior quality, and the fact that they are equipped with Sellita movements keeps the price down is a major attraction. Despite the weak yen and strong Swiss franc, the three-hand models start at around 400,000 yen and the chronograph models at around 600,000 yen, which fills a gap in the "affordable price range" that has been neglected in recent years as the prices of luxury watches have been steadily rising. As a watch enthusiast, I am genuinely pleased about this.


As mentioned in the caption for the photo at the beginning, a special event venue for the Breitling Gallet had been set up in front of the Breitling boutique in Geneva. They were handing out drinks, so I had some lemonade.

 After that, I went to interview Bulgari! The location was the Mandarin Oriental.

 As one of the brands that launched GWD, Bulgari, despite already having a fruitful lineup at Watches & Wonders Geneva (hereinafter W&W G), annually releases new timepieces at GWD that attract the attention of watch enthusiasts.

 Among Bulgari's GWD unveiling models, this new release stands out. It's a collaboration model with independent watchmaker Vianney Halter, and it's based on the "Octo Finissimo."

The "Octo Finissimo Vianney Halter Limited Edition" was announced in two versions: one with a titanium case and bracelet, and another with an 18K pink gold case and leather strap.

 In this interview, we spoke with Halter himself and Fabrizio Bonamassa Stigliani, Executive Director of Product Creation for Bulgari Watches. This was a very interesting conversation, and we will be writing a full article about it on webChronos, so please stay tuned!

 Even so, it's amazing how such a complex design can be achieved with a thin titanium case. In addition to the time display at 2 o'clock, there is a day and night indicator at 4 o'clock, a second time zone at 8 o'clock, and a date display in an arc-shaped window from 10 to 12 o'clock, yet the case thickness is kept to 9.7mm. It can be said that this is a masterpiece that skillfully blends Halter's identity with the character of the Octo Finissimo.


Of course, it's thicker than the three-hand Octo Finissimo, but it's still quite slim. Its lightness, thanks to being made of titanium, is also a key feature.

 At the same Mandarin Oriental venue, Daniel Roth, Gerald Genta, and L'Epée 1839 were also exhibiting. I had planned to interview Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta on the fourth day, along with Michel Navas, so I headed to the much-anticipated L'Epée 1839 (hereinafter referred to as L'Epée).

 The reason why this is "long-awaited" goes back to the W&W G held in April of this year. As someone who covered the W&W G for the first time this year, I was already exhausted by the grueling schedule on the very first day. Amidst all this, my eyes happened to fall on the Repe booth. There, prominently displayed at the entrance, was the gleaming gold "THE GEKKO."

 Lepe is a brand that makes high-end clocks, and is characterized by its lineup of clocks that use various motifs such as geckos, grenades, dragons, and supercars. I learned about its existence at the Singapore Watch Fair, which I covered in 2023, but this was my first encounter with the gecko. I was captivated by its cute yet clearly meticulously crafted design, and went into their booth to talk to them, but unfortunately, because I'm not good at English, I couldn't understand everything.

 I'd love to visit again if I get the chance...! Just as I was thinking that, I found their booth at GWD, and noticed that Gecko was prominently displayed, so I didn't hesitate to ask for an interview. The booth was quite crowded, but a male staff member kindly explained everything to me, even demonstrating the products. I'm so envious of the dazzling world of clocks.


I fell in love with "THE GEKKO" at first sight at W&W G. When mounted on the wall with the special fixture, it looks just like a gecko is clinging to it!


Gecko, there's a turquoise blue version too! The photo shows the time display on the body being explained. The ring on the display rotates, so you can adjust it to any orientation. This means you can stick it anywhere on the wall at home ←. Incidentally, the mainspring is wound by swinging the tail from side to side, a design inspired by the "lizard shedding its tail" technique.


Repe unveiled a soccer ball clock at GWD. It's life-sized. The photo shows the mainspring being wound using a special key.


What are these adorable clocks?! Clocks ranging from gigantic to miniature were lined up, and I realized that this is a profound world, quite different from wristwatches.

Geneva is a city where you can enjoy strolling around.

 By the time we left Lepe, it was already past 13pm. The Chronos editorial team slurped down ramen at their favorite restaurant, "Yukiguni," and since we had some time before our next interview, we took a stroll around the city.


I'd heard rumors about "Yukiguni" ramen, and this was my first time trying it. It was just as delicious as ramen I've had in Japan. However, the price (the weak yen...) was a bit of a letdown.


As I've mentioned in my diary several times, the weather was consistently sunny throughout this business trip. While it was hot and sunny during the day, it got noticeably chilly as soon as the sun went down, so be careful.


As we were walking down the alley, a watch shop suddenly appeared. Mr. Sakata said he had known about it for a long time.


A beautiful clock with a nice atmosphere is visible through the shop window. I wonder how much it cost?


The shop window also features illustrations of wristwatches.


Exploring European cities is enjoyable because there are many buildings and landscapes that you might not be familiar with.

Interview with Gregory Bourtin at Universal Genève

 After strolling around the city of Geneva, our next destination was the Universal Geneva booth.

 Like the Gallet, Universal Genève has made a comeback under the House of Brands. Since its revival, a full range of new watches have already been released, and there were no models specially unveiled at GWD. However, the space offered a glimpse of the new models and Universal Genève's archives, along with interiors and exhibits that evoke the brand's long-held ideal of being a "watchmaker."


Archives of Universal Geneva. On the left is the "Pole Router," and on the right is the "Compax."

These are design drawings created by Universal Genève when they reproduced items from their archives.


Also from the archives. On the left is the "Cabriolet," which was the main subject of this interview. I've forgotten the model name of the one on the right. I'll ask around.


The shop also displayed past advertisements for Universal Genève and illustrations that evoked the owner's work as a tailor.

 Now, my main purpose for coming to Universal Genève was to interview Managing Director Gregory Bourtin. Since the brand's relaunch, he has been leading Universal Genève by reviving classic designs from the past. I asked him about the details of the collection, which centers around the "Cabriolet," and the brand's future development. I'll write the article for this interview as soon as possible... (voice trembling).

My first time seeing the Cabriolet! Actually, Bourtain had previously visited the Chronos editorial office with the Universal Geneva. At that time, I saw the Polerouter, Compax, and Cabriolet prototypes, and now I've had the chance to see the actual car again in Geneva.

The case structure, which gives a sense of the high precision of the convertible, is noteworthy. I want to delve into this in the manuscript as well (I need to write it soon).

This is the stainless steel model of the "Polerouter." While retaining the design created by Gerald Genta when he was 23 years old, it is equipped with the newly developed Cal.UG-110 movement. The exterior finish and dial colors have been refined to be those of a modern luxury watch.

The bracelet is also of high quality. Universal Genève is positioned as a high-end brand within House of Brands, so even more attention is paid to the exterior and movement, and consumers will likely notice this.

This is the "Compax" model with an 18K rose gold case. It features a midnight blue lacquer dial paired with a matching ceramic bezel. The movement is also the latest Cal.UG-200.

Zenith interviewed Romain Marietta.

 After Universal Genève, we headed to Zenith.

 Zenith has released the "Chronomaster Solo Sport" through GWD. Like previous "Chronomaster" models, it is equipped with the El Primero movement, but instead of a chronograph, it features the Cal.3620CS, which displays hours, minutes, and seconds in three hands. Although this movement has been used in the "Defy" series, this is its first appearance in the Chronomaster. Also noteworthy are the ceramic dial and unidirectional rotating bezel, both made of ceramic and adorned with motifs inspired by the "high vibration" of the El Primero movement, which are fresh design elements for the Chronomaster.

Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport

Photograph by Senta (SIGNO)
Zenith's new "Chronomaster Solo Sport" collection was photographed by Mr. Senta, a photographer we at our magazine's editorial department have a close relationship with. I wasn't able to take good photos on site, so I'm posting some of Mr. Senta's cool shots here.
Quote:https://www.webchronos.net/features/169973/

 The new Chronomaster Solo Sport lineup includes three models with date displays, as well as one model without a date display. I heard that Marietta, herself a watch enthusiast, deliberately added this non-date version for "watch geeks." I interviewed Marietta about the Chronomaster Solo Sport, as well as Zenith's recent brand strategy and product development. I'll write the article soon (for the nth time).

The Chronomaster Solo Sport is said to be a reconstruction of elements extracted from various Zenith archives. Many of these archive pieces were also on display.

The "Elite" movement has also been incorporated into various Zenith models as a core movement. The archives featuring the Elite movement were on display, which I thoroughly enjoyed.

An Automata Journey!? A Look at Jaquet Droz and Their Amazing Lucky Cat Clock

 After finishing the interview with Zenith, my appointments for the day were complete. However, since we were already out, we decided to take a stroll around town and, at Mr. Sakata's suggestion, go see a watch that was "doing something interesting."

 First, while strolling around town, I popped into Jaquet Droz, which was holding an event at its boutique.

 Jaquet Droz now primarily focuses on producing unique pieces, and they no longer have boutiques in Japan. This was a rare event showcasing such unique pieces. I walked in without an appointment, but they kindly welcomed me in and said, "Please, come in and take a look!" So I was able to cover the event. Moreover, they carefully explained each timepiece, and even demonstrated the automatons in operation for some models.

This watch was created in 2025, the Year of the Snake in the Chinese zodiac, as an homage to the snake. The snake on the dial is made of white gold and colored with enamel. Applying the glaze to this rounded yet undulating motif by hand and firing it requires a high level of skill.

"Dragon Automaton." When you press the pusher at the 4 o'clock position, the dragon's tongue, scales, and tail start to move.

 After that, I went to the watchmaker who was doing that "interesting experiment."

 Upon entering the booth, a giant beckoning cat catches your eye! Its eyes display the time, and it's an automaton with a gimmick that makes a "come here" gesture with its hands while shaking its head.

 The watch is being produced by Philippe Holzer, CEO of a watch dial supplier company. Although the finished product hasn't been seen yet, it's clearly well-made, as expected from someone with expertise in watch dial manufacturing. In particular, the gold-colored triangular plates adorning the lucky cat are uniformly polished, and the slightly rougher texture in the center is also uniform. I'll write my review soon!

Upon entering the booth, the first thing that caught my eye was the golden beckoning cat. At first glance, it seemed like a novelty item, but what made me realize it was actually quite seriously made was the gold-colored decoration applied to the exterior. The finish was uniform, and the gold was applied without any gaps, even to the curved parts of the cat's arms and body.

A close-up reveals the uniformity of the gold plating. Furthermore, the triangular decoration is also being considered for use with minerals such as meteorite. Truly befitting of a watch dial supplier.

I was shown the internal mechanism from the back. Only the mainspring barrel for the beckoning cat automaton part is currently installed, but the mainspring barrels for the time display and the balance wheel at the feet are also planned to be manufactured.

 Unexpectedly, I was able to hear all sorts of stories about the beckoning cat. I left the booth a little after 18 PM, and this time, my interviews for the day were really over! Since I had a dinner engagement, I headed to Brasserie Lipp Genève, a place that the late Soichiro Matsuzaki had forbidden me from visiting when I was on a business trip to Geneva.

The outdoor seating area at Rip. As the sun began to set, the breeze became cooler, and I was reminded once again that this is truly a wonderful time of year for Geneva.

 The reason for the ban was apparently "because it was too expensive," but due to the exchange rate, Swiss restaurants were expensive everywhere... In Rip, I enjoyed pleasant conversation, delicious drinks and food, returned to my accommodation feeling tipsy, and of course, did some work before falling asleep like a log.

Continued in "Geneva Diary Summer: Day 3"!


A comprehensive guide to the new watches of 2026! Grand Seiko, Rolex, Patek Philippe, Omega, and more... Information on each brand summarized.

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[Geneva Diary Day 0] 1 yen has turned into 42 Swiss francs (shudders). Covering the new watch exhibition.

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Visiting Geneva, Switzerland, my personal "holy land of watches" [Geneva Diary: From the Final Chapter to the New Chapter]