This is a hands-on review of Bell & Ross's new 2026 model, the "BR-05 36MM Blue Diamond Eagle." Featuring an aventurine dial shaped like the constellation Aquila with natural diamonds, this watch combines the versatility and decorative appeal characteristic of the "BR-05" series, making it a jewelry watch suitable for everyday wear.
Photographs & Text by Tsubasa Nojima
[Article published on January 15, 2026]
A poetic new addition to the small-diameter "BR-05" series.
Bell & Ross specializes in square-shaped watches inspired by aviation instruments. In their lineup, the "BR-05" plays the role of a sophisticated, urban "luxury sports watch."
The BR-05 was launched in 2019. While inheriting Bell & Ross's signature design of combining a square case and a round dial, its sporty yet sophisticated style, with the case and bracelet integrated, attracted attention and became a flagship model for the company. Initially released with a 40mm diameter case, a smaller 36mm model was added to the lineup in 2025, a date still fresh in our memories. By reducing the size while retaining the traditional design codes, it became a genderless model that is easy for both men and women to wear.
The BR-05 36MM Blue Diamond Eagle is a new addition to the BR-05 series, featuring a 36mm case diameter, and was released in 2026. As the name suggests, the theme of this model is the constellation Aquila floating in the night sky. The blue aventurine dial, adorned with diamonds, represents the constellation Aquila shining in the night sky. Bell & Ross is strongly associated with tool watches that emphasize functionality, but this model stands out as a unique and poetic creation.
A new model featuring a diamond-encrusted aventurine dial. Based on the 36mm case "BR-05". Automatic movement (Cal. BR-CAL.329). 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 54 hours. Stainless steel case (36mm diameter, 8.7mm thickness). 100m water resistance. 737,000 yen (tax included).
Aventurine dial reminiscent of the night sky
The greatest highlight of this watch is undoubtedly the dial made of blue aventurine. Aventurine glass is created by depositing fine metallic crystals inside the glass, resulting in a unique, sparkling shine. Its history is said to date back to the late 16th and early 17th centuries in Venice, Italy, and the island of Murano. The name aventurine comes from the Italian word for "chance," and there is an anecdote that it was created through a chance discovery.
In this piece, a deep, mystical night sky is expressed by layering a blue aventurine plate on a brass base. As you move your wrist, the tiny particles that catch the light shimmer and change in appearance, as if a piece of the night sky has been captured.
Standing out brightly in that night sky are 18 natural diamonds. Eleven of them function as indices, and the remaining seven recreate the constellation Aquila. The largest diamond, set between 10 and 11 o'clock, represents Altair, the brightest star in Aquila.
What's intriguing is that the diamonds that make up the indices and constellations aren't immediately distinguishable. Because stones of different sizes are scattered across the dial, if you look at them without thinking of it as a watch, they look just like stars shining in the night sky.
It's worth noting how other elements have been kept to a minimum, such as the omission of minute markers and date display, and the use of slender bar-type hour and minute hands. By reducing the amount of information, the presence of the aventurine and diamonds stands out, allowing you to purely enjoy the Aquila constellation concept.
Elegant small-diameter case
In contrast to the poetic dial, the exterior retains the sporty design characteristic of the BR-05. The round dial is surrounded by a square case, and the bezel, with screws at the four corners, is an iconic design that is instantly recognizable as Bell & Ross. The stainless steel case utilizes a combination of satin and polished finishes, highlighting its sharp form while simultaneously creating a luxurious atmosphere through light reflection.
At the 3 o'clock position, it features a screw-down crown surrounded by a crown guard. Despite the flashy dial, it maintains a 100m water resistance rating, ensuring that the BR-05 does not compromise the fundamental performance of an urban sports watch.
What distinguishes this timepiece is its compact case size, measuring just 36mm in diameter. The thickness is also kept to a mere 8.7mm. Generally, square cases tend to have a more imposing presence than their dimensions suggest, but this size strikes a balance; despite being a glamorous watch featuring aventurine and diamonds, it doesn't stand out excessively on the wrist.
The case back features a laser-engraved star chart of the Aquila constellation, adding a touch of exclusivity. Inside is the Cal.BR-CAL.329 automatic movement. While based on a general-purpose movement, it boasts a power reserve of approximately 54 hours, providing sufficient practicality and reliability for everyday use.
The bracelet is also an indispensable element when discussing the appeal of the BR-05. It adopts a seamless, integrated design that flows smoothly from the case, and is composed of links that make extensive use of large, flat surfaces. Like the case, it is polished in a combination of satin and polished finishes, so when you move your wrist, light reflects finely, showing a different kind of shine than the aventurine dial.
The buckle features a double-folding clasp. When closed, it's almost invisible, creating an elegant look that doesn't interrupt the flow of the bracelet.
A well-balanced combination of practicality and decorative appeal.
When you actually put it on your wrist, the first thing that stands out is how comfortable it is. The compact case fits nicely on the wrist, and the flexible bracelet doesn't restrict wrist movement. Combined with the seamless design of the case and bracelet, it feels incredibly light on the wrist. It's also less likely to catch on cuffs, and you won't feel any burden even when wearing it for extended periods. Its high water resistance means there are no concerns about everyday use.
On the other hand, when it comes to the legibility and readability of the watch, one must accept certain limitations. The diamond indices lack clear indicators, and there are no minute markers. Furthermore, the aventurine itself reflects light in a complex way, making it difficult to instantly read the exact time. Based on my own experience using it, it's best to consider it only as a way to roughly tell the time.
However, this is not so much a flaw as it is an indication of what this watch prioritizes. If you're looking for a watch with high legibility, Bell & Ross offers plenty of other options. By deliberately downplaying the functionality of the watch, this model achieves a packaging that allows you to deeply appreciate the concept of the night sky and the constellation Aquila.
Another practical issue I noticed was the operability of the crown. Because the crown itself is quite small to match the slim case, and is also sandwiched between the crown guard, unscrewing and tightening it is a bit cumbersome.
If we were only considering the character of this particular model, one option might have been to slightly reduce the water resistance and use a push-pull crown. However, since this is a variation of the BR-05, there is meaning in maintaining the basic design as an urban sports watch with 100m water resistance. With that in mind, this small screw-down crown should be seen as a choice made to preserve the essence of the BR-05.
A sporty jewelry watch that adds sparkle to your everyday life.
Diamond jewelry watches are sure to give their owners a strong sense of exhilaration. However, their dazzling nature also makes them a category where it's difficult to choose the occasion and outfit to wear them with.
In that respect, this model takes a slightly different approach. Instead of highlighting the diamonds alone, it blends them into the countless lights emitted by the aventurine, elevating the brilliance of the stones into the overall expression of the dial. Combined with the small 36mm case, the impression you get from seeing it in person is not as flashy as you might imagine from images on the web.
Above all, the base model is the BR-05, which features 100m water resistance and an integrated bracelet. While retaining the versatility of the BR-05, which can be used in a wide range of situations from business to leisure, the dial alone creates an entirely different worldview, offering a glimpse into Bell & Ross's watchmaking style that makes the most of their iconic features.
The way the aventurine and diamonds sparkle when they catch the light on your wrist is enough to lift your spirits a little. If you consider it purely as a practical item, there are some compromises that must be made, such as visibility. However, if you can accept those compromises, this piece will be a sporty jewelry watch that can be easily incorporated into everyday life regardless of gender or occasion.
The merits of a wristwatch aren't solely about displaying the time accurately. The BR-05 36MM Blue Diamond Eagle offers a way to enjoy a watch that carries the night sky on your wrist, allowing you to appreciate its brilliance every day.
