Roger Dubuis's seriousness conveyed through his helmets. Twelve Sengoku warlords gathered around a round table.

The helmets of 12 samurai warriors surround Edo Castle in the center of the dial. Roger Dubuis' "Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy" is an ambitious work that expresses Japanese history and culture within a wristwatch through exquisite engraving. Why did a Swiss watch brand turn its attention to Japan and choose the era of transition from the Sengoku period to the Edo period as its theme? We present a video that delves into the background and craftsmanship through commentary by Masayuki Hirota, editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan and webChronos, and interviews with people involved with the brand.

From the legend of King Arthur to the stories of Japanese warlords

　Roger Dubuis' "Legendary Universe" series weaves a single story across the entire timepiece. This series, which began in 2013, is symbolized by a collection of pieces inspired by King Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table, featuring 12 knights on the dial. Each knight is handcrafted, showcasing the brand's renowned Métiers d'Art craftsmanship.

　"Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy" shifts the setting of that story to Japan. Instead of knights, the dial features the helmets of 12 warlords, including Tokugawa Ieyasu and the Four Heavenly Kings of Tokugawa. However, this work depicts more than just the battles of valiant warlords. The theme is the turning point in history, from an era of war to an era of peace, and then to the Edo period when culture flourished.

　In the video, Hirota, who attended the unveiling at Happoen, explains the highlights of the timepiece. Furthermore, two key figures, Antoine Astoy, Marketing Manager of Roger Dubuis Timepieces, and Frédéric Kleins, Professor at the International Research Center for Japanese Studies who conducted the historical research and supervision for the piece, provide commentary that unravels the story behind the unique appearance, incorporating the brand's connection to Japan and the stories of the warlords who served as its inspiration.

The craftsmanship poured into this small helmet

　First, let's look at the unique shapes of the helmets. Hirota focuses on their three-dimensionality. What processes are necessary to reproduce even the intricate decorations within a limited space?

　In the video, Astoy explains the manufacturing process, which involves casting the helmet body and decorations separately, joining them together, and then applying metal engraving. The metal engraving alone takes an average of two days per helmet. Further finishing touches, such as adding shading, accentuate the depth of the small details. How do craftsmen finish parts that require the utmost care, such as the long, delicate decorations on Kato Yoshiaki's helmet? The explanation reveals the accumulation of handiwork that cannot be seen simply by looking at the finished watch.

The "Kachi-iro" (victory color) and the Edo Castle symbolize respect for Japanese culture.

　Another highlight is the deep blue that adorns the watch. It represents the "victory color" worn by samurai warriors to pray for victory, and the indigo blue that spread into people's lives with the arrival of peace. Cranes says that the stories behind these colors are also connected to the theme of this work, which is the transition from war to peace.

　Hirota also draws attention to the cross-shaped stitching on the strap, reminiscent of the threads on armor, and the Edo Castle depicted in the center of the dial. This approach, which goes beyond the easily recognizable motif of a helmet and reflects an understanding of Japanese culture in every detail, is an essential point in understanding this work.

　Hirota finds Roger Dubuis' appeal in its combination of avant-garde design and meticulous craftsmanship rooted in tradition, and he describes this timepiece as "a watch that could go down in history." Please watch the video to find out why he says so.