Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
This popular series sees the elite editors of Kronos Japan pick up the latest and hottest new models, use them to their heart's content, and give their reviews.
This is the second "extra edition" in which we cross-review seven selected cameras that appeared in the first feature of our magazine's November 2017 issue, "A thorough impression of current masterpieces," with different testers taking turns. In this issue, Suzuki No. 2, also known as Suzuki Hiroyuki, was in charge of the Moritz Grossmann "Venu Pure Japan Limited," while our editor-in-chief Hirota, who owns a standard "Venu," provides his "behind the scenes impressions." We compare and analyze the two.
Moritz Grossmann's "Pure Series" was released in 2016. This stainless steel case collection was extensively tested by Hiroyuki Suzuki on the "Venu Pure Japan Limited" in the November 2017 issue of this magazine. As readers know, there's nothing to add after such a detailed review. However, different reviewers will have different views, so I decided to test the same model myself. Incidentally, Hirota also owns a standard "Venu," so I was able to compare the two.
Moritz Grossmann's first product, the Benu, has been featured many times in this magazine. This model, with its carefully crafted manual-winding movement housed in a high-quality case, is filled with elements that are sure to please connoisseurs. While I adore this watch, there were some things I didn't like. The logo, which uses red accents, is not exactly cool, and perhaps because it's a first model, the winding of the crown is too stiff. Speaking of personal preference, the lugs are a little long compared to the case size. So, rather than a matter of likes and dislikes, and speaking of pros and cons, I've always recommended the Atum over the Benu. Compared to the Benu, the Atum has more refined details.
When the Japan-limited model of the Benu Pure was first released, some enthusiasts mocked it as a "cheap version" due to its stainless steel case, plain finish, and flat beard. However, to put it simply, I can't help but think that this is the best model of the Benu. Like the "basic model" of the Porsche Cayman, this is a masterpiece that skillfully combines a solid feel with lightness. There is a reason why I called it a masterpiece, not just an excellent or good work.
The case is structured the same as the 18K gold Benu, divided into three pieces: bezel, middle case, and case back. The shape is also exactly the same. However, perhaps due to improved polishing, the distortion of the mirror surface has been further reduced. Incidentally, Moritz Grossmann's 18K gold case is prone to small scratches for some reason. For this reason, I asked an acquaintance to lightly polish it for me. However, with a hard stainless steel case, small scratches would not be noticeable. This alone makes the Benu Pure Japan Limited appealing.
Although the hands are not tempered amber, they are given a perfect mirror finish and remain the best among current models. After molding, the hands are polished by applying a ceramic-containing resin called HICERAM. These are very elaborate hands, typical of Moritz Grossmann, which is renowned for its hands. In addition, the red accent color has been removed from the logo on the dial, giving the watch a much cleaner look.
The movement's finish is plain compared to existing models. There is no so-called "Geneva finish," and the costly mirror finish has been largely omitted. I'd like to digress here a bit. The most expensive movement finish is mirror finish. This is a technique in which the surface of the part is flattened, and then a tin plate coated with diamond paste is used to give it a mirror finish. At first glance, it may seem simple, but blowing on it while polishing will ruin it, and no matter how much you polish, small scratches will not come off. In this respect, a grained finish, which is achieved with a file, is much easier.
The Benu, which uses too much mirror polishing in its movement finish, is an exception; the Japan-limited edition, which avoids mirror polishing as much as possible and instead uses a matte finish, can be said to be the standard for German watches. That said, the low-pressure sandblasting is uniform, and the chamfering of the bridges, while not a mirror finish, is carefully finished by hand. The depth is different from that of a chamfer created with a diamond cutter and then roughly smoothed by hand.
