The Best Practical Watch? Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic / Editor's Random Impressions

FEATURES Impression
2018.07.11

 This popular series sees the elite editors of Chronos Japan pick up hot new models, use them to their heart's content, and give their reviews. The 13th watch we tested was the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic (2018). Masamasa Hirota, editor-in-chief of the magazine, who has been a fan of this model since its release, shares his impressions!

The 2018 Clifton Baumatic refines the basic performance of a practical watch. It's not flashy, but it boasts outstanding performance as a practical watch. While it's usually taboo to place a watch on top of a PC, this model, with its magnetic resistance of approximately 1500 gauss, is no problem. Automatic (Cal. BM12-1975A). 21 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 120 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 40mm, thickness 10.3mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Priced at 305,000 yen (excluding tax).
Interview and text by Masamasa Hirota (Kronos Japan)

Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)

The Caliber BM12-1975A was developed in collaboration with the Richemont Group. The automatic winding mechanism uses a ratchet-type MagicClick mechanism that allows winding in both directions. Its magnetic resistance of approximately 1500 gauss means that there is virtually no risk of magnetism in everyday life. The long power reserve of approximately five days also provides excellent isochronism.


 There are no advertisements for Baume & Mercier in the Japanese edition of Chronos. From a sales perspective, it's not a good idea to feature them too often, but the Clifton Baumatic, released this year, is exceptionally good. We (and the author) have been pushing this new automatic watch so much that people from other manufacturers have commented that we might have been tricked by Baume & Mercier, and we expect that to continue in the future. The same can be said for Omega's Seamaster Diver 300M Master Chronometer. We have been enthusiastically recommending it despite the negative reactions of the sales department because of the watch's high level of perfection.

 I praised it so much that Baume & Mercier lent me a sample for testing. I've been using it for about a month now, and the result is "Outstanding." It stands out among current automatic watches for its ability to be used without any thought. Below, I'd like to report on what I found so good about it. I'll write more about the movement design in Issue 78 of this magazine (on sale August 3rd). It may sound strange for me to brag, but I'd like to think that no other publication has covered the Baumatic to this extent (probably).


Short review

:Chronometer-level accuracy, excellent magnetic resistance, long power reserve, thin and easy-to-handle case, spring bar positioning for bracelet conversion, attractive price

×: No luminous, the date change sound is a little loud, there are times when the date cannot be changed


Movement

 The basic design of the BM12-1975A, which is equipped with a timepiece, dates back to Cartier's Caliber 1847MC. This movement completely separates the base movement from the winding mechanism. Therefore, simply increasing the diameter of the base movement and installing a larger barrel easily extends the power reserve. While the movement's gear train design is the same as the Caliber 1847MC, the larger baseplate (i.e., barrel) extends the power reserve to approximately five days. The automatic winding mechanism, commonly known as the "Magic Click," is modeled after Seiko's Magic Lever. While automatic winding is a complex design, the flawless automatic winding mechanism of the Caliber 1847MC is used to ensure reliability. I wore the watch constantly, and I had no complaints about the winding efficiency.

 In addition to its long power reserve of approximately five days, this movement has two other distinctive features. The first is the use of a free-sprung balance, which is shock-resistant and highly isochronous. However, perhaps to reduce costs, not much effort was spent on the regulator. While it seems that the balance is prone to one-sided weight, there were no problems with static or dynamic accuracy.

 The balance spring and escapement were also changed to silicon. Additionally, a technology called Twin Spear, which bonds two pieces of silicon together, was adopted to increase the stability of the balance spring. The Baumatic's high magnetic resistance of approximately 1500 gauss is clearly due to the silicon balance spring.

 Although it is not a chronometer, the movement accuracy after about a month of use was approximately 3 seconds. There was almost no positional error, and no noticeable magnetic interference. The crown had as little play as an IWC, and setting the hands felt as smooth as an in-house movement in the 1 million yen class. I didn't like the feel of the Cal. 1847MC when it was first released, but it seems to have been improved. However, perhaps because it is an entry-level model, the sound of the rotor and the date change were a little loud. However, these are unlikely to bother anyone other than those accustomed to high-end watches.