The trend of remaking iconic motifs with modern specifications, or in other words "reconstructing icons," is finally spreading into the modern era. The mainstream of this trend is the 1970s revival that began with the retro diver. Favre-Leuba, at the forefront of this trend, has shown extraordinary ability in "reconstructing details."
Interview and text by Hiroyuki Suzuki
The focus of nostalgia surrounding mechanical watches is shifting toward the modern era. The trend toward "reinventing icons" that emerged in the 1960s, the golden age of mechanical watches, is now drawing to a close. The 70s are finally coming into focus as a target motif for a new return to classics. The 70s are sometimes called a "winter period" for the Swiss watch industry, due to the emergence of new quartz movements and third-party influences, including Japan. However, this period also marked a turning point, when the seeds of new watch design emerged. While the torrent of excessively free-spirited designs, lacking any systematic consistency, has largely faded into the distant past, leaving only details with a certain universality. The essence of the modern 70s revival lies in this "reinvention of details."
Favre-Leuba's Raider collection skillfully incorporates this retro-futuristic mood. This year in particular, they have added a small 41mm diameter size to their diver model "Deep Blue," while also releasing a new "Sea King" that enlarges the "Sea Bird" to a 41mm diameter. While the two watches share striking details and are the same size, they have established completely different characters.
First, the cushion-shaped case is a hallmark of the new Favre-Leuba. The stepped case sides create a sense of lightness that belies its size. This, combined with a 14-sided crystal ring, is a basic design code shared by the new Favre-Leuba. Furthermore, the Raider Collection skillfully recreates the 70s aesthetic by adopting the deep blue design of the original indices and the hour and minute hands from the Bassy collection. When it comes to the construction of these exquisite details, the new Favre-Leuba is a leader. Furthermore, the subdued blue and gray dials, without being overly saturated, add a sense of solid luxury to the light-hearted 70s details. While many original models from this era have cases and bracelets that feel cheap, this is unnecessary with these modern remakes. Although neither of these watches are exceptionally high-spec, the Deep Blue with its 44mm case has proven itself to be quite heavy-duty, having accompanied the "Japanese Salaryman's Everest Climbing Project" and been the partner of Sayuri Kinoshita when she set a new Japanese record in free diving.
This small-sized Deep Blue watch shares the same case specifications as the Sea King. However, as a diving model, it boasts high-pressure water resistance of 300m. The subdued blue color enhances the sense of luxury. Automatic movement (Cal. SW200 base). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 38 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 41mm, thickness 13.5mm). 300m water resistance. Price: 270,000 yen.
(Right) Raider Seeking
This new model shares the same basic design as the 37mm Seabird, but with a larger case size. Its versatile suitability for both formal and casual occasions is due to its understated details. Automatic (based on the Caliber ETA2824-2). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 38 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 41mm, thickness 13.4mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Priced at 195,000 yen.
