From "Chaai" by Takeshi Matsuyama
(Published by Fujinsha in 1995)
What is Tocha?
Tea fighting is an ancient Chinese game in which participants bring their own tea and brew it, competing to see who makes the best. While the name sounds intimidating, participants discuss a variety of topics over this refined beverage, a symbol of culture. It could be said to be the original form of the so-called tea gathering. Even as far back as the Tang dynasty, people used tea as their constant companion, talking, sometimes debating, and seeking truth. Tea fighting became increasingly popular during the Song and Yuan dynasties, and this spirit continues to this day in Taiwan. The people around me today have not only enriched their economies through tea, but also built close friendships, meeting frequently to share lively conversations about tea and life. To be honest, it was a world of grown men I envy.
"General Secretary Hayashi comes from an old family in Shikatani and used to be a junior high school teacher."
"When you say you're from an old family, are you a descendant of Lin Fengchi, the man who brought tea seedlings back from Fujian?"
"You know the story of Lugu very well. That must be it," said Zhang.
During the Qing Dynasty, Lin Fengchi, a native of Lugu, passed the rigorous imperial examination and became an official on the mainland. It's a noble tradition in China that people would support talented people from their hometown. Lin Fengchi later brought back 36 "Soft-stem Oolong" seedlings from Wuyi Mountain as a token of appreciation to Lin Sanxian, who had helped him with his travel expenses. He planted them in the now-famous Dongding Mountains and divided them one after another, helping to turn Lugu Township into the economically prosperous tea region it is today.
Lugu also had its difficult times, but after Hayashi Mitsuyasu became the general secretary of the agricultural association, he led the way in improving the tea industry, and the reputation of Lugu Dongding Oolong Tea grew day by day, and the region began to develop.
This coincided with the rise of the Taiwanese economy. People had more money in their pockets, which drove them to pursue the traditional art of tea. This beautiful island, already self-sufficient, became even more livable and enjoyable. This makes me happy, as the locals call me "Taiwanese Married Man."
As soon as the demand for good tea began, it sparked the spirit of tea fighting, a tradition that had existed since ancient times. I believe Mr. Zhang used the expression "tea fight" to describe the mood. He and Mr. Du would often go out to the high-altitude fields together, aiming to find the perfect tea for picking and processing that day.
After all, Mori-san always wears a belt with a Lions Club buckle, a meter with an altimeter and a thermometer attached, and he even keeps a bag of his own standard tea in his pocket.
"When was that amazing tea?"
"That was two years ago. It must have been April 17th. We were at a farmhouse in the mountains near Mount Yushan. Mr. Zhang and I stayed in a withered room lined with paulownia wood."
This brewer often repeats, "A pure fragrance is important, Matsuyama-san."
Even so, drinking tea at farms and agricultural associations countless times every day, and each time gaining deep knowledge and training my senses, was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. People often say it's like a dream, and that week has truly passed like a dream.
