A flagship model of informal luxury that will serve as a touchstone for new product strategies
In the 1940s, Breitling established an unshakable reputation for its pilot's watches. Building on that success, the Premier model was a turning point that propelled the brand into a luxury brand. The strategy enacted by Willy Breitling at the time perfectly aligned with the direction of the new Breitling under Georges Kern. It's no coincidence that the new collection, which has been carefully crafted over time, once again bears the Premier name.
Interview and text by Hiroyuki Suzuki
One year after Georges Kern took over as CEO, the new Breitling is pushing ahead with a repositioning of the brand. A major change from the Schneider era has been a shift to a more "wrist-mounted" image tailored for pilots, as well as an aggressive expansion into new segments. The Navitimer 8, the first watch launched under Kern, is a symbolic example of a watch that draws inspiration from archives from the 1930s and 1940s to enhance its heritage feel (though the model with a circular slide rule remains in the lineup as the Navitimer 1). The reorganized product categories of "Air, Sea, Land, and Professional" were established with the aim of narrowing down references and clarifying segments. A new subtheme, "Elegant," has been added to the Land category. Accordingly, the old Chronomat has (surprisingly) been given a new character: "a collection with a more modern design within the Land category."
The highlight of the new Land category, which emphasizes an elegant image, is the nostalgic "Premier" name. The original was released in the 1940s, a time when the world was in a state of chaos and the very definition of chronographs was also in need of change. The Premier, which appeared at a time when Breitling's previous specialty, "professional aviation watches," was increasingly being seen as military tools, symbolized the company's shift in watchmaking direction from purpose to style. This same concept applies to the new Premier, which serves as the flagship of the new Breitling's pursuit of "informal luxury" (luxury for everyday use).
BREITLING PREMIER:ReBORN
This two-counter chronograph is the flagship of the new Premier Collection. Prioritizing the image of the past, the in-house Cal. 01 movement has been stripped of its 12-hour counter. Automatic (Cal. 01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 42.0 mm, thickness 13.65 mm). Water resistant to 100 meters. Price: 920,000 yen.
Considering that the Navitimer 8, the first product of the design team reorganized when Georges Kern became CEO, was a somewhat "rushed" product, the new Premier collection can be described as a "touchstone for the new Breitling," a collection that has been carefully crafted. For this reason, I myself went to the roadshow with a critical eye, but my fears were completely unfounded. The new Premier emphasizes the elegant atmosphere of the original, while also featuring a design that is different from any previous product. Georges Kern, who is sometimes involved in design himself, had this to say:
"I didn't want the new Premier to be a simple vintage revival. My mission was to reconstruct an elegant and sustainable design based on historical assets from the past, adding a modern twist. Furthermore, I wanted to simplify the complex image."
The new Premier is symbolized by the three grooves on the side of the middle case. They express a certain sense of speed while adding a sense of rhythm to the surface structure of the case side. Furthermore, while previous Breitling cases were based on cold forging and finish cutting, this middle case appears to be primarily made using cutting. It even suggests that in addition to the traditional main supplier, new blood has been introduced since the Kern regime took over. The same can be said for the dial.
A center-second model with a day and date display, ideal for business use. Straps are available with a folding clasp or open buckle (pictured is the open version). Automatic (Cal. 45). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 40 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 40.0 mm, thickness 11.40 mm). Water resistant to 100 m. Price: 460,000 yen.
(Center) Premier Chronograph 42
This model is equipped with the Cal. 13 movement, based on the ETA 7750, which Breitling has continually refined. It's a masterpiece with well-balanced specifications. Automatic (Cal. 13). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 42mm, thickness 13.80mm). Water resistant to 100m. Priced at 640,000 yen.
(Right) Premier Automatic 40
The most basic three-hand small second model. The simple design, which even omits the date display, is wonderful. Automatic (Cal. 37). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 40.0 mm, thickness 11.40 mm). Water resistant to 100 m. Price: 440,000 yen.
The most outstanding feature of the new Premier design is the balance between the bezel and the case back. In theory, when the case side is steep (the cross section is linear), the bezel and case back should be perfectly flush, but in the new Premier, both are made to protrude significantly from the middle case. The edges of the bezel and case back are moderately rounded, which, combined with the grooves on the side of the middle case, creates a God
It creates a visual effect similar to that of a long ornament. It is a truly ingenious device that gives the watch a soft and elegant feel while maintaining the proportions of a sports watch.
"Exactly one year ago, we made a fresh start from scratch. We reexamined everything, including our corporate identity. Although I can't go into details, in 2019 we are also working on a project to further strengthen our in-house structure. One thing I can state clearly is that we do not create products that reflect the economic situation. We express diverse ideas within a limited set of references. In particular, there are countless elements that can be drawn from the brand's history."
The new Breitling has reexamined its archives and embarked on a new venture. It feels like a return to the days of Willy Breitling. "Willy once said, 'Wearing a Breitling is proof of your taste.' I couldn't agree more, but the product portfolio I originally envisioned is still incomplete. Only once I can unveil it can I say that a new 'Kern era' has arrived, following the Willy and Schneider eras."
A three-hand small second hand with striking simplicity. In addition to the anthracite dial shown in the photo, the lineup also includes blue and silver. Automatic (Cal. 37). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 40 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 40.0 mm, thickness 11.40 mm). Water resistant to 100 m. Priced at 500,000 yen.
Black dial bracelet model. It features a classic flat pusher design, but is water resistant and offers a comfortable feel. Automatic (Cal. 13). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 42mm, thickness 13.80mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 690,000 yen.
The B01 Chrono features a newly designed 7-row bracelet.
Graff. The vibrant blue dial has a wonderful color. Automatic
Winding (Cal.01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve
Approximately 70 hours. SS (diameter 42.0 mm, thickness 13.65 mm). 100 m
Waterproof. 98 yen.
Contact info: Breitling Japan ☎03-03-3436-0011
