Harry Winston
Bi-retrograde and perpetual calendar
Since its debut in 1989, Harry Winston has frequently used bi-retrograde timepiece display mechanisms. It is no exaggeration to say that the two retrograde display mechanisms symmetrically arranged on the dial are now Harry Winston's "specialty." The latest model, released to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the "HW Ocean" collection, features a bi-retrograde perpetual calendar. The brand's traditional mechanism has been given a fresh, modern aesthetic through an original design that incorporates a skilled architectural and geometric approach.
Text by Shigeru Sugawara
It was in the fall of 2010, when I was invited to an event celebrating the 10th anniversary of the Opus, held at Harry Winston's modern watchmaking workshop on the outskirts of Geneva. The event brought together the independent watchmakers who had worked on each of the Opus watches from the first to the tenth, but one masterpiece, quietly emanating a distinct presence and exhibited separately from the Opus collection, also attracted passionate attention. It was a bi-retrograde perpetual calendar from the HW Premiere collection, Harry Winston's debut model, which marked the brand's entry into the world of luxury watchmaking. Developed with the cooperation of Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, a relatively unknown independent watchmaker at the time, this memorable timepiece was introduced in 1989, marking its 30th anniversary in 2019.
The latest model, released in 2018 to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the HW Ocean collection, also incorporates the signature bi-retrograde perpetual calendar mechanism, demonstrating Harry Winston's consistent individuality. First of all, the dial layout, just like the original from 1989, features the central hour and minute hands, with the date on the right and the retrograde day of the week on the left, a pointer-type 12-month display and leap year indicator in a small aperture at 12 o'clock, and a moon phase display at 6 o'clock, creating a well-balanced face.
However, the real strength of this latest model, more than its complex mechanism, lies in the newly introduced aesthetic techniques, which have reshaped the styling of the perpetual calendar. In short, it is a pursuit of a more powerful and beautiful "modern beauty." That is, the design emphasizes contrast and three-dimensionality more than ever before, by incorporating architectural and geometric elements.
The date and day hands, which move over a wide, almost semicircular range, are significantly longer than the time display hands, giving them a truly prominent presence, and their dynamic retrograde movement creates a truly dynamic effect. At the same time, they form multiple concentric circles, along with the hour and minute hands, which are centered on the dial, the spiral latticework that surrounds them, and the hour circle, featuring alternating Arabic numerals and luminous markers. The same diameter circles also symmetrically surround the month and leap year display at 12 o'clock and the moon phase display at 6 o'clock. Furthermore, each element is outlined with a thin line, skillfully creating a multi-layered, three-dimensional effect on the dial.
The brand's aesthetic sense, embodied in every detail, gives the dial a rich expression and elegance. As a result, it stands apart from traditional Swiss classicism, and its outstanding sense of design reflects the ever-dynamic spirit of modern New York – a true hallmark of Harry Winston.
Contact info: Harry Winston Client Information Tel. 0120-346-376
