The annual calendar is a mechanism that has gained a new following. The 2018 annual calendar introduced here may attract even those who have previously been negative about this mechanism. We will be presenting this in two parts.
Text by Logan R. Baker
Patek Philippe
"Ref. 5205G Annual Calendar"
Patek Philippe introduced its first annual calendar 23 years ago in 1996 and patented its mechanism. Positioned between watches with date displays and more expensive perpetual calendar watches, the annual calendar seemed to open up new horizons for watch enthusiasts, offering a lower financial barrier while still offering ease of use—requiring only annual adjustments. Since this movement joined Patek Philippe's portfolio, numerous variations of the annual calendar model have been released, but I believe the latest model, unveiled at Baselworld 2018, is the most compelling to date. The Ref. 5205G Annual Calendar features the 5205 series' signature layout of day, date, and month displays at the top of the dial, a gradient blue-and-black dial, and an 18K white gold case with openworked lugs. In addition to the annual calendar mechanism, it also features a moon phase and 24-hour display at 6 o'clock. Powering all of this is the automatic caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/206, which has a power reserve of approximately 45 hours.
Longines
"Longines Master Collection"
Since its launch in 2005, the Master Collection has served as Longines' modern flagship collection. Previously, the collection has featured chronographs, retrograde watches, perpetual calendars, and moon phases. This marks the first time in Longines' 187-year history that it has introduced an annual calendar. Housed in a 40mm stainless steel case, the watch features an embossed barleycorn dial with a date and month display at 3 o'clock. This model is available in four styles: a silver dial with Arabic numerals or diamond indices, a black dial with Roman numeral indices, and a sunray blue dial with line indices. The hands are either tempered blue or rhodium-plated. The movement, L897.2 (based on the ETA A31.L81), offers a power reserve of approximately 64 hours and is visible through the transparent caseback. It comes with a stainless steel bracelet or a black, brown, or blue alligator strap, all fitted with a triple safety folding clasp.
Blancpain
"Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Annual Calendar"
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is a legendary model that established the blueprint for modern diver's watches and helped establish Blancpain as a leading Swiss watch brand. The retro-looking Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe was introduced in 1956 as a more suitable size for everyday use. It was reintroduced in 2013 as the Bathyscaphe, reminiscent of the original, and has since evolved into a sub-collection and spawned numerous references. This is the latest in a long line of Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Annual Calendar models. This model is the first Fifty Fathoms annual calendar and is powered by the caliber 6054.P, which boasts a power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Like other annual calendars in Blancpain's portfolio, it features a unique calendar layout with the day, date, and month displayed from top to bottom. Available with a sail canvas strap, NATO strap, or stainless steel bracelet.
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