BREITLING / Premier B01 Chronograph 42
Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42
Reviving the Premier name and expressing determination to be "authentic"
The 1940s and 50s, when Willy Breitling led the brand, were a time when the brand solidified its reputation as a "pilot's watch for professional use." In that sense, the first Chronomat with a circular slide rule, which appeared in 1942, could be called the founding father of Breitling's revival. However, there was also a model from that era that took a completely different direction: the "Premier," which, by not having a circular slide rule, opened the door to luxury. Now that the Premier has made its long-awaited comeback, it was tasked with an important mission that would become the core of the rebranding.
Interview and text by Hiroyuki Suzuki
Creating a completely new style while adhering to history and tradition is an extremely difficult task. Tokuro Nukui, author of "Gugyouroku," a novel adapted into a film starring Tsukamoto Yoshida two years ago, once said the following about the genre of detective fiction known as "honkaku mystery." "A 'honkaku' genre can only exist by adhering to the patterns established by its predecessors. Anything that transgresses those patterns is frowned upon as unfair. In other words, there are many restrictions, and if originality isn't incorporated into them, it won't be appreciated. It would be a miracle for a masterpiece to emerge in such a narrow genre." (Excerpt from the original essay "The Closed Room, Thoughts on from a Distance," included in Shinchosha's "The Great Closed Room"). The world of watches shares a similar theme. Emphasizing history and tradition is synonymous with following the codes of our predecessors, which, from a broader perspective, can easily lead to the miniaturization and reproduction of design. No matter how modern manufacturing techniques are utilized, it's ultimately self-parody. Meanwhile, novelist Yasuhiko Nishizawa quoted Nukui's essay and interpreted it as a "declaration of determination as a serious writer." When I first saw the "Premier," the long-awaited release by the new Breitling led by Georges Kern, I had the same thoughts as Nishizawa. This model is a test of the new Breitling's ambitious rebranding efforts, and at the same time, it is a "declaration of determination to become a serious brand."
With the success of the Chronomat in 1942 and the subsequent Navitimer in 52, Breitling quickly became recognized as a leading aviation watch manufacturer. During the 80s, a period of revival for mechanical watches, Breitling produced a new generation of Chronomat watches that maintained practical performance for pilots while also being fashionable. However, the focus of development remained on professional use, and this image still lives on today. However, as Georges Kern himself said, the core of the new Breitling's rebranding can be summarized as a stylish instrument. To avoid seeming "unfair" to even long-time Breitling enthusiasts, the design team cleverly selected the "Premiere" motif from the 1940s. Shining a light on the "luxury chronograph," which predates the Navitimer and existed at the same time as the legendary Chronomat, was the optimal solution for establishing a new originality without overstepping the bounds of its predecessors. As proof of this, even though the details of the new Premier do not exactly mirror those of the original, its very reason for existence is the same as the Premier. This point is summed up in Georges Kern's confident words, "We didn't intend to create a simple vintage revival."
The design of the new Premier is symbolized by the three grooves on the case side. As a flagship model in Breitling's newly established "land category," the three grooves create a sense of speed while adding just the right amount of dynamics to the case side's surface. The balance between the bezel and case back is also excellent. While the Premier model, with its linear case side (cross section), typically has the edges of the bezel and case back perfectly aligned with the case middle, the new Premier has both edges slightly extending beyond the case middle. The edges of the bezel and case back are moderately rounded, and this, combined with the grooves, creates an elegance reminiscent of gadroons. While maintaining the proportions of a modern sports watch, the watch as a whole exudes a sense of luxury. This is nothing less than a clear embodiment of the new value of "informal luxury" (luxury that accompanies everyday life), which Georges Kern often speaks of.
A new collection that inherits the name of Premier, which appeared in the 1940s. It was released at a time when chronographs themselves were increasingly seen as military tools.
The original is a masterpiece that marked a turning point in adding style to purpose. The flagship two-counter chronograph omits the 12-hour counter from the Cal. 01 to maintain its classic image. Automatic (Cal. 01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 42.0 mm, thickness 13.65 mm). Water resistant to 100 meters. Priced at 920,000 yen.
Contact info: Breitling Japan ☎03-3436-0011
