With the launch of the new "Fiftysix," positioned as daily luxury, Vacheron Constantin has added new appeal to its collection. Aficionados who choose the company's products do not choose watches solely on the basis of the Maison's name. What is the appeal of Vacheron Constantin that satisfies even the most discerning connoisseurs with exceptional aesthetic sense? Let's take a look at some of its appeal, focusing on collections that are suitable for a variety of occasions.
Styling by Eiji Ishikawa (TABLE ROCK STUDIO)
Text by Hiroyuki Suzuki
The Fiftysix collection was newly introduced in 2018. Its distinctive Arabic numerals, evocative of the New York avant-garde of the 1950s, and the placement of the railway track toward the center of the dial exude a youthful energy. The longhorn design that forms the chevron adds a touch of luxury suitable for everyday use.
Automatic (Cal. 2460 QCL/1). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 40 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 40.0 mm, thickness 11.6 mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 2.5 million yen.
FIFTYSIX
A daily luxury watch that embodies the Maison's signature style in a very standard case form.
The Fiftysix, released in 2018, has established a new standard that will likely become mainstream in the future. By incorporating a unique symbolism into a neutral position that is neither sporty nor dressy, it has pioneered a new frontier of "daily luxury." The Fiftysix adds a touch of luxury to the everyday watch, which has traditionally been "businesslike" due to its standard character. If you were to choose just one watch, the Fiftysix would be a truly connoisseur's choice.
It's neither sporty elegance nor a dress watch. 2018 marked the beginning of a major transformation in the maison's standard models. The catalyst was the long-awaited launch of the Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix. This new collection, which the company describes as "daily luxury," strongly evokes the 1950s-inspired New York avant-garde, while also incorporating the brand's signature symbolism. The Maltese cross, comprised of four overlapping chevrons forming eight protruding horns, closely resembles the driven wheel used in the barrel winding mechanism that stabilizes the precision of manual-winding movements, and was therefore favored by many of the watchmakers, particularly those in Geneva. Vacheron Constantin began using it as an official signature in the mid-1950s, and by combining four chevron-shaped fancy lugs, they even created a case design that evokes the Maltese cross as a whole. This flexibility in design thinking and the richness of the case design are perhaps the virtues that symbolize Vacheron Constantin of that era. On the Fiftysix, the lugs themselves are more standard long horns, creating a form that is easy to use for daily use, while the four flaps on the bezel alone make a strong impression of the Maltese cross. If you want one watch to suit every occasion, the Fiftysix is the perfect solution.
This is a basic version of the Fiftysix, a three-hand model with a date display. It features a long horn design, unusual for the company, and a bezel with a flap, creating the shape of a single leaf in the Maltese cross. The movement is based on a new, more versatile automatic movement, but it has been uniquely improved and decorated to the same standards as other in-house movements, making it almost a completely different piece.
Automatic (Cal. 1326). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. 18KPG (diameter 40.0mm, thickness 9.6mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 213 million yen.
Of the four Fiftysix models (in addition to the model shown here, the first complication, a tourbillon, was added to the lineup in September 2018), this is the Day/Date model with the sportiest appearance. The parallel inset dials feature pointer-type date and day displays. The power reserve indicator, slightly offset from the 6 o'clock position, is also beautifully balanced.
Automatic (Cal. 2475 SC/2). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 40 hours. 18KPG (diameter 40.0mm, thickness 11.6mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 355 million yen.
The same stainless steel case is used for the Day/Date model. By eliminating the red accent color from the power reserve indicator, a cooler color management has been achieved. The Day/Date and Complete Calendar stainless steel models are paired with dark gray alligator straps and folding buckles (the 18KPG version has a pin buckle), giving them a sportier impression.
Automatic movement (Cal. 2475 SC/2). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 40 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 40.0 mm, thickness 11.6 mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 1.9 million yen.
The complete calendar is a "practical complication" that Vacheron Constantin specialised in around the 1940s. The balance between the centrally placed pointer date, the small windows indicating the month and day of the week, and the moon phase is excellent. The mismatch between the somewhat classical calendar layout and the avant-garde style of the 1950s is also a natural fit.
Automatic (Cal. 2460 QCL/1). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 40 hours. 18KPG (diameter 40.0mm, thickness 11.6mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 391 million yen.
