Why do some watch models have two jewel counts listed in their specifications?

2021.11.27
Article published on June 2019, 02

Q: Why do some models have two jewels listed in the watch specs?

A: If you look at the Japanese edition of Chronos or overseas watch media, you may see two jewel counts listed for the same watch in the specifications section.

 The reason is that one model uses two movements. For example, there is a model that uses both the ETA2892A2 and its replacement, the Sellita SW300. The specifications are almost the same, but the former has 21 jewels and the latter has 25, so when the number of jewels is listed, it is written as shown in the red line in the photo below. Similarly, the ETA2824-2, which is used in many watches, has 25 jewels, while its replacement, the Sellita SW200, has 26. It is generally said that Sellita is inferior to ETA, but when it comes to recently manufactured watches, the quality can be considered to be the same.

For the sake of stable supply and risk hedging, some manufacturers purchase ébauches of the same quality from both ETA and Sellita and use both in the same model. The Carl F. Bucherer model pictured is equipped with both the ETA2892A2 and the Sellita SW300, so the number of jewels is listed as "21 or 25 jewels."