There's a reason why brown dial watches aren't as common as other colored dials. Blue and green dials offer eye-catching color tones that bring time to life. Meanwhile, black and white dials offer a traditional, familiar design that's easy to dress up or down. Brown falls somewhere in between these two colors, but its muted, warm color requires extra effort to match with an outfit. But there's something special about brown. And it's easy to see why brown dial watches are slowly but surely growing in popularity among watch enthusiasts. Here are five stunning chocolate-colored dial models released over the past few years that you'll want.
Text by Logan R. Baker
Vacheron Constantin Overseas
Vacheron Constantin, which has been offering brown dials on its chronograph models, introduced this model with the 2016 Overseas refresh. This model, with only three hands and a date display, boasts an attractive sunburst dial and a timelessly sized stainless steel case. Backed by Vacheron Constantin's history of sports watches, which began with the 222 in 1977, the Overseas is considered one of the great sports watches. The café au lait-colored dial of the Reference 4500V/1110a adds a sophisticated touch, continuing that tradition. Powered by the in-house automatic caliber 5100, it boasts a long power reserve of approximately 60 hours and the quality of the Poinçon de Genève.
Zenith "ELITE Chronograph Classic"
Zenith's ELITE Chronograph Classic may be one of the more underrated models released in the past five years. This variant of the Elite line took advantage of an updated El Primero chronograph movement and was released in 2016 alongside other colorways. Its classic design—a pale grayish polished dial, subdials at 3 and 9 o'clock, and recessed square pushers—combined with its understated appearance earned it praise upon its release, but it never really took off in the watch industry. The understated chocolate-colored wood tones, even among the brown dials, are appealing. Here's hoping other brands produce similar "less is more" watches.
Seiko "Seiko Presage"
While Grand Seiko released a limited edition mosaic brown dial (SBGR311G) for its 20th anniversary, this is a more accessible yet equally interesting model that Seiko released in 2017. The Seiko Presage "Cocktail Time" is a series of eight models, featuring caramel-colored watches inspired by the "Manhattan" cocktail. The dial features a ripple-like pattern reminiscent of a cocktail glass viewed from above. Seiko claims that the shimmering appearance is achieved through seven layers of polished finish. A small date display in the same color is located at 3 o'clock. The best thing about this watch? Its price tag of just 49,000 yen (excluding tax) is one of them.
Urban Jürgensen "Ref. 1140 RG Brown"
Urban Jürgensen continues to create some of the most elaborate timepieces on the market today. The Ref. 1140L RG Brown, released in 2018, is a prime example. The walnut-like brown dial contrasts beautifully with the delicate tempered blue hands, creating a luxurious feel. The rose gold Arabic numerals are hand-finished, almost floating above the dial's surface. Other elements, such as the artisan-guilloched dial, the woven small seconds subdial, and the teardrop-shaped lugs (each individually forged, welded, heat-treated, and hand-polished), enhance the overall sense of structure. This model is part of the Ref. 1140 series, which offers a variety of dial colors and case materials. The previous year, a platinum model with a velvet-like blue dial was released. This brown model represents a new addition to Urban Jürgensen's warmer palette. The case is hand-finished and decorated with an in-house caliber with a Swiss lever escapement by Urban Jürgensen, twin barrels, and a power reserve of approximately 72 hours. The 40mm case is limited to 20 pieces worldwide and is presented on an alligator strap with a rose gold folding buckle and buckle.
Omega "Seamaster Planet Ocean Master Chronometer"
This Sedna Gold model of the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean, released in 2016, was initially marketed as a women's watch. With a diameter of 39.5mm, it was considered a suitable watch for couples to share. While the design and layout are similar to the previous Planet Ocean model, the movement is entirely new. This is the first time the Planet Ocean series is equipped with a Master Chronometer caliber. Visible through the case back, the caliber 8801 is Omega's METAS-certified movement, resistant to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. The 39.5mm size is also a new development for Omega, as the previous model was a unisex model with a diameter of 42mm. The use of the company's proprietary Sedna Gold alloy for the case, buckle, and indices is also a good choice. This complements the mahogany brown dial and rubber-lined leather strap for an appealing look. It's also worth noting that it's water resistant to 600m.
Other models with chocolate dials
These are just a few of the growing brown dial options available today, including the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524R, Rado Captain Cook 37mm, Tudor Black Bay Bronze, Panerai Luminor 8 Days Power Reserve Titanio PAM00797, Hublot Classic Fusion Berluti, and FP Journe Octa Automatic Reserve Havana Dial.
