Breguet has long maintained a policy of secrecy. However, for this Time to Move, like Harry Winston, the brand has fully opened its workshop to the public. CEO Thierry Esslinger explains, "For a long time, Breguet has not shown its workshops, but we thought this would be a good opportunity to let people know how we make our watches." This year, Breguet is focusing on women's models. In addition to adding a ladies' model to the Marine, Breguet has added a lacquer dial model to the Reine of Naples. What all of this year's new models have in common is the vibrant dial, just like Harry Winston's. By eliminating the protective lacquer that is sprayed on the surface of the dial, the brand has succeeded in giving the watches more vibrant colors than ever before.
Classic 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel
This is a "Wonderful Buy" from 2019. It was based on a limited edition model commemorating the 10th anniversary of the Breguet Boutique Ginza. This model adds a date display to that. The limited edition was so well-made that Breguet headquarters decided to make it a regular model. I wondered about adding a date display, but the actual watch looks completely natural. The date window is surrounded by a water jet, which allows the date display to blend in nicely. There is a lot to write about this model, so I will go into detail in the July 83rd issue of Chronos Japan, which will be released on June 3rd.
Classic Tourbillon Extra-Thin Skeleton 5395
This model is a skeletonized version of the extra-flat tourbillon. At the same time, the base plate and bridges of the platinum model have been changed to 18KRG. Breguet says, "This is the first time we've used a gold movement since the Marie Antoinette No. 1160." The basic design is the same as before, but it's chamfered everywhere. The finish, with "inward and outward angles" even in the finer details, is typical of Breguet's high-end models. Nakis Karapatis, vice president in charge of development, said, "As a result of making it skeletonized, the round hole would come into contact with the wheel case, causing problems with winding. We changed that part."
Marine Lady 9517
Breguet focuses on women's models. The newly added Marine ladies' model is emblematic of this. It's available in three main varieties: the stainless steel model 9517, the stainless steel with diamonds, and the 18K gold with diamonds model 9518. The dials are available in a basic design, two types of mother-of-pearl with a wave pattern, and a gradient lacquer finish. The mother-of-pearl with a wave pattern is guilloched, as in Breguet's other collections. A special cam was apparently developed for this purpose. My personal recommendation is this model with a lacquer dial. The unique color is achieved by applying over a dozen layers of lacquer. Considering its size, the 5 bar water resistance is quite impressive.
