Each company has its own methodology for pursuing streamlining
Many experts point to thin watches as a trend for 2011. Their solid approach of wrapping a basic movement in a simple design will certainly appeal to more conservative consumers. However, the reason for the revival of thin watches is not limited to external factors. Each company is striving to update their thin watches, and as a result, they are dramatically changing the image of the thin watch as it has been until now. Let's take a look at these "new" thin watches from the perspective of their movements and designs.
Interview and text by Masayuki Hirota, Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
From flat to thin with a three-dimensional feel
Since the 1950s, Piaget has been a leader in the field of thin watches. Indeed, it is no exaggeration to say that Piaget has shaped the trend for thin watches. In particular, the design and engineering of the Piaget Altiplano have had a decisive influence on the state of thin watches in recent years. However, it is not the thinness that has had an impact. It is the three-dimensional design and robust movement design that are different from conventional thin watches, and these are the key points.
The latest Altiplano model. Its case diameter is 43mm, but its thickness is only 5.25mm. However, its distinctive feature lies not in its thinness, but in the way it incorporates a three-dimensional effect that prevents it from appearing flat. This ambitious model dares to break with the conventional rule of thin watches, which is to make them appear flat. Also, as befits a long-established manufacturer, the watch's level of perfection is outstanding. First released in 2010. Automatic movement. 18KWG. Price: 2,383,500 yen.
Until the 1970s, the trend in watches was consistently toward thinner watches. At least for many watch manufacturers, being able to manufacture and assemble thin movements was a certain status symbol. With the spread of quartz watches, companies' efforts to make watches thinner became even more serious. Early quartz watches were difficult to make thin, so mechanical movements, which lacked precision, had no choice but to find a way to make them thinner. Companies purchased thin ébauches from Frédéric Piguet (such as the caliber 171) and Pezeau (such as the caliber 320), and casings them in-house. The pressure to make watches thinner during this period can be seen from the fact that even Rolex released the thin dress watch "Cellini" in 1968.
Thin watches from the 70s onwards had one key characteristic: they had an intentionally flat design to emphasize their thinness. Sapphire crystal became popular as a crystal material in the 70s, likely because it was a material that was suitable for emphasizing thinness in addition to its strength. However, in the 80s, Seiko, Citizen, and ETA successfully developed ultra-thin quartz watches. From then on, the value of thin watches and thin mechanical movements rapidly faded.
When did the thin watch revival begin? In terms of its impact on the watch industry, the pioneer was undoubtedly Piaget's Altiplano (1998). This watch was unique for two main reasons. The Altiplano's caliber 430P, despite its thin design, possessed a remarkably robust structure. The technique of integrating the bridges for rigidity was emulated by subsequent thin movements and, through Val Fleurier, influenced the movement design of the Richemont Group. The exterior was also innovative. Modeled after watches from the 50s, the Altiplano featured a slightly bombé-shaped dial. However, looking at later Piaget models, it's clear that this wasn't intended to create a retro feel, but rather to emphasize the three-dimensional effect. While the Patek Philippe Ref. 5196 is one example of a thin watch that emphasizes the three-dimensional effect with a bombé-shaped dial, the Piaget Altiplano was the first.
This trend is even more pronounced in the latest automatic models, where the dial is now double-sunk (the center of the dial and the small seconds are lowered) for a more three-dimensional feel, and the gap between the strap and the case has been shortened, giving the watch a less sloppy appearance.
The combination of a three-dimensional design and a robust movement pioneered by Piaget is arguably the current trend in thin watches.
Automatic movement with micro-rotor. The gear train is cleverly adapted from the hand-wound Caliber 430P/830P series. The robust bridge, integrated as much as possible, is characteristic of modern thin movements, rather than Piaget. First released in 2010. Diameter 29.9mm, thickness 2.35mm. 27 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 40 hours.
A thin, hand-wound movement that had a decisive influence on later movements. While its nearly integrated bridge lacks aesthetic appeal, it offers high rigidity. Unusually for a thin movement, it features a gear train with a significantly offset second wheel. Diameter: 20.5mm, thickness: 2.1mm. 18 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve: approximately 40 hours.
This is a representative thin watch of the modern era. While its design is modeled after watches from the 1950s, it incorporates innovative features not found in previous thin watches, such as a bomb-shaped dial. Its robust movement also gives this ultra-thin watch exceptional practicality. First released in 1998. Manually wound. 18KWG (38mm diameter). Water resistant to 3 ATM. Priced at 1,627,500 yen.
