Watch Journalist Yasuto Shibuya's Useful Watch Industry Chat
Instead of the new product announcements at Baselworld, "TIME TO MOVE 2019" was an exhibition of the top six Swatch Group brands held in Switzerland in mid-May. It was a tight schedule, with five brands' headquarters and one brand's exhibition taking place on a half-day tour over the course of three days, but I was fortunate enough to be able to attend, so I would like to introduce some of the new products that I personally thought were "great!"
Let's start with Breguet, which the Swatch Group positions as its pinnacle brand.
Breguet breaks new ground with an evolved blue dial
I remember that the first time I visited the Breguet workshop was in 1997, before it became part of the Swatch Group, and it was much smaller than it is now, but it was still beautiful and had a very nice atmosphere. Since then, the Swatch Group has made aggressive capital investments, and the workshop has been transformed into something even more impressive, both in terms of size and facilities, and I was once again amazed.
Following the presentation of the new 2019 models, the first thing that made me think "This is it!" was the "Classique 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel" with its blue enamel dial. While it features a classic Grand Feu enamel dial, this model has achieved groundbreaking thinness through new technology. For more information on its appeal and technology, please see the July issue of Chronos Japan, where Editor-in-Chief Masamasa Hirota provides a detailed explanation.
However, the models that made the biggest impact on me were the Queen of Naples 8967, Marine Lady 9517, and Marine Lady 9518. These ladies' models feature lacquer dials that use a "new technique reminiscent of the sea," with a marbled pattern that changes vividly depending on the angle of the light.
When I first began covering watch workshops in the 1990s, most lacquer dials were very plain and uninspiring. This was also the time when Grand Feu enamel was being revived, and the two were often compared and discussed. Furthermore, I believe that many lacquer dials at the time, especially plain ones, were likely made up of only a few layers of paint.
However, today's lacquer dials are completely different from those of the time. Once painted, they are left to dry, then painted again and dried again. This process is repeated more than a dozen times, taking ample time to create a beautiful finish. A Breguet representative told us that the lacquer dials of the Reine of Naples 8967, Marine Lady 9517, and Marine Lady 9518 also went through this process more than a dozen times.
Among them, I would like you to see the "Queen of Naples 8967," with its flowing tonneau-shaped case reminiscent of an eggshell. The dial is larger than the "Marine Lady," and the tone is brighter and more impactful. Including the blue denim strap, it goes beyond the realm of "subtle watches for mature women." It has an appeal that will attract not only women, but all kinds of people who have not previously been interested in Breguet.
Am I the only one who would love to see more models with this style and using this technology?
