The clocks and antique watches that inspired Tomokazu Kawase, chairman of the antique watch specialty store "CARES"

What is the first watch that inspired these watch sages, and the last one they hope to own—the so-called "final watch"? In this series, we interview key figures in the watch industry and, through their answers, get a glimpse into their timepiece-related lives and philosophies.
We spoke with Tomokazu Kawase, chairman of Cares, a specialty antique watch store that carries a wide range of brands, primarily from the 1930s to the 60s. Kawase cited the Seiko 5 Sports Speedtimer as his starting point, and the Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback as his most popular watch. Let's hear from Kawase, the man with a deep love for watches who has built Cares into a renowned antique watch store.

Tomokazu Kawase, Chairman, Cares Co., Ltd.

Born in Tokyo. He has been focusing on mechanical watches since the heyday of quartz watches, and started his watch sales business by selling old Japanese-made mechanical watches at flea markets. He steadily expanded the company through wholesale to other stores and sales at department store events, and in 1993 opened the first Cares store in Tokiwa, Koto Ward, Tokyo. In 2002, he moved to his current location in Morishita, Koto Ward, and integrated his repair workshop there. In 2006, he opened the Omotesando Hills store (specializing in ladies' antique watches), and in 2013, the Tokyo Midtown store. His books include "Only Antiques" (2003) and a revised edition of the same in 2015.

The original watch is the Seiko 5 Sports Speed ​​Timer

Q. Tell us about the first watch you ever owned.

A. The first watch that caught my interest in watches was a Seiko Sportsmatic. I received it as a gift from my father's company as a celebration of his long service when I was in elementary school. However, I soon broke it. I was bothered by the ticking mechanism and the distinctive sound of the rotor that makes an automatic watch, so I forced open the back cover and removed the contents, which made it beyond repair.
　When I entered junior high school, my father bought me a Seiko "Seiko 5 Sports Speed ​​Timer" as a gift for starting junior high school. However, this too soon stopped working. Not wanting to make my father sad by thinking, "I broke it again," I left it tucked away in the back of a drawer. It wasn't until about 10 years ago, when I was sorting through some old belongings, that I finally found the watch again. I had it overhauled by the repair staff at Cares, and it started working again. I still use it occasionally.

The "finishing" watch is the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback.

Q. Please tell us about the dream watch that you hope to own one day, the so-called "golden watch."

A. It is a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback, a boys' size automatic watch with a diameter of 28mm, made from the late 1930s to the 40s and commonly known as the Lifesaver.
　Rolex developed the completely waterproof "Oyster case" in 1926, and the "Perpetual Rotor," an automatic winding mechanism with a rotor that rotates 360 degrees, in 1931. These inventions are likely due to the fact that Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf approached watchmaking from the perspective of a salesman, rather than a watchmaker. He listened carefully to the voice of the market and created new things to meet their needs. Many of the functions that are now commonplace in highly practical watches were developed by Rolex at the time.
When the Oyster Perpetual Bubble Back was created, half-rotation rotors were still the norm for automatic winding. They then created a full-rotation rotor, mounted it in such a small, waterproof case, and made it chronometer-certified. This watch gives you a sense of the watchmaking philosophy that Rolex held dear at the time.
　In fact, although it doesn't fit the definition of a "final watch," I was able to acquire this watch a few years ago. I chose to include it in this "final watch" category because, upon reuniting with this Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback, I felt a renewed sense of pride in properly communicating what a "truly good watch" is and the stories behind them. As a watch enthusiast, I will make this my goal for the future. I also tell the staff at Cares to purchase watches that they truly believe to be good, without being swayed by trends.

[Antique watch specialty store and repair workshop "CARES"] Official website:http://www.antiquewatch-carese.com/index.html

Afterword

　Cares now has three locations. Its history began when Tomokazu Kawase, a salaryman, started out by participating in small flea markets on his days off. He gradually built up his sales channels and built up his funds. Kawase later brought in his younger brother, sister, and friends, and built Cares, which today employs nearly 30 people. Kawase explains the appeal of antique watches: "My idea of ​​a good watch is not one that's expensive, but one that lasts a long time. Many old watches are designed to be repairable, so you can continue to use them for many years to come." The "care" in the shop's name comes from aftercare, and Cares has placed a high priority on repairs since its opening. The repair workshop is filled with the energy of many artisans, from veterans to the younger generation. When asked about his career as a business owner, Kawase replied, "I just happened to be riding the wave of an era when antique watches were booming." However, I felt that Kawase's consistent love of watches and his straightforward, warm personality attracted people, and that his desire to "leave good things for the future" has continued to connect them.