Sapphire crystal is a well-known material in the luxury watch industry, but the process of crafting an entire case out of sapphire crystal is extremely difficult and time-consuming, making it highly sought-after (and therefore inevitably expensive). However, in recent years, several brands have placed importance on sapphire crystal cases, each developing their own unique style. Here we will introduce some sapphire crystal watches that have been released in the past.
Text by Logan R. Baker
Articles published in March 2020
ベル＆ロス
"BR-X1 Skeleton Chronograph Sapphire"
The Bell & Ross BR-X1 Skeleton Chronograph Sapphire features a skeletonized movement with both a flying tourbillon and a chronograph mechanism. The 45mm case is carved from a single block of sapphire crystal, from the top to the middle case, caseback, bezel, crystal, four corner bumpers, lugs, and dial. With a Mohs hardness of 9, sapphire is the second hardest and most scratch-resistant material on Earth, after diamond, which has a Mohs hardness of 10. However, the process of crafting the watch case is extremely challenging, requiring hours of machining and polishing. The openworked dial reveals the chronograph's mechanism, including the column wheel at 12 o'clock. The single push-button for the start, stop, and reset functions is integrated into the crown. The large flying tourbillon, located at 6 o'clock, features the brand's logo on its cage, adding a design accent.
Blancpain
"L-Evolution One Minute Flying Sapphire Carousel"
This carousel model from the L-Evolution collection embodies Blancpain's innovative attitude. Not only are the dial, crystal, and caseback made of sapphire crystal, but even some of the components of the in-house Caliber 22T are made of sapphire crystal. Notable features of this movement include the precise finishing of the upper dial baseplate, which accentuates the skeleton design; a long power reserve of approximately 120 hours thanks to a series triple barrel system; and the adoption of a one-minute flying carousel system, which rotates once per minute. The L-Evolution One-Minute Flying Sapphire Carousel case is made up of sapphire crystal parts, a tantalum bezel, and white gold lugs. The 43.5mm case is paired with a black alligator leather strap.
Hublot
"Big Bang Unico Sapphire"
Hublot's Big Bang Unico Sapphire was introduced at Baselworld 2016 as a limited edition of 500 pieces. Featuring a case carved from a solid block of sapphire, it was the brand's first mass-produced model and marked a new direction for the brand. The case, bezel, and caseback are crafted from sapphire crystal, while the screws, silicon-covered crown, and folding buckle are crafted from titanium. The openworked dial is crafted from transparent resin, offering a clear view of Hublot's in-house Unico HUB1242 caliber, featuring a flyback chronograph mechanism with a column wheel and double clutch. The movement is coated with black PVD. In addition to the hours, minutes, small seconds, and chronograph functions, the watch displays a date at 3 o'clock. The sleek, lined, transparent strap is just as transparent as the case itself.
