A wonderful harmony woven by the best comrades
Sushi m opened in April 2019 near the Nezu Museum in Aoyama, Tokyo. A chef who loves sushi and a sommelier who is well-versed in sake will delight guests with unprecedented techniques. We hope you will visit with curiosity, not preconceived notions.
Photographs by Yu Mitamura
The sear-skinned Nodoguro seabass from Karatsu is served with a small portion of vinegared rice and placed on top of kelp from Rishiri. The rice is Hitomebore, grown in Tome City, Miyagi Prefecture, by Ishii Minoru, an expert in pesticide-free farming. It is large and robust. Nakamura says, "It's rice that lifts the fish." Seven different types of salt, including salt from Christmas Island, Australia, are used, and no soy sauce is used at all. The chef's choice course consists of around 20 dishes.
Opening the door reveals an elegant L-shaped counter made of Kiso cypress, typical of sushi restaurants. Apparently it is a single piece of wood over 200 years old that was destined to be donated to Ise Grand Shrine. Looking further back, you will find a sommelier counter made of cowhide, which is unusual for a sushi restaurant. This double counter, which you won't find anywhere else, speaks to the unique style that can only be found here.
Standing behind the sushi counter is Michimasa Nakamura, who has been in the business for over 20 years. He left Sushi Shin and Sushi Shin Hanare to his apprentices and opened Sushi m as a place to rediscover his passion for sushi. His partner is Yoshinobu Kimura, who stands behind the sommelier counter. He served as head sommelier at NARISAWA for 10 years. In the year leading up to the opening, he visited people involved in production in search of the finest ingredients and sake. He often stayed in fishermen's homes, sharing meals and sleeping quarters. It can be said that the ability to procure rare ingredients such as Japan's best oysters and Akaza shrimp, which can be eaten raw, is a result of the bonds he has built with them.

Sushi m is the stage where ingredients with such stories are presented in the best condition, along with the perfect sake. For example, the presentation of the Nodoguro nigiri is fascinating. Hot water is poured onto a heated ceramic plate, the lid is placed on, and the dish is left to sit for 30 seconds. Once the fat from the Nodoguro has penetrated the vinegared rice and the temperature is just right, the vinegared orange juice is squeezed on. When you take a sip of the Kanzamashi "Etsu Kaijin Yamahai Junmai Sake Unfiltered Nama Akaiwa Omachi," the acidity unique to sake seems to creep in. This shows how important the temperature is, in addition to the brand you select.
It's a pleasant, almost seamless sensation. It's proof that the food and sake are a perfect match, and it brings surprise and delight. The "m" comes from "mariage." This not only refers to the marriage of sushi and sake created by chefs Nakamura and Kimura, but also to the ingredients and vinegared rice, the chef and the eater. The combination of these elements creates "Sushi m," and to say it overturns the concept of sushi is an understatement.


Born in Saitama Prefecture in 1978. Joined Tsukiji Sushi Sei at the age of 18. At the age of 25, he was appointed manager of Iki na Sushidokoro Abe in Hiroo. In 2009, he opened Sushi Shin in Shirokane, which later moved to Minami-Azabu. In 2017, he opened Sushi Shin Hanare in Nishi-Azabu.
(Right) Yoshinobu Kimura
Born in Hyogo Prefecture in 1977. After working for a food company, he moved to the United States at the age of 24. He studied restaurant management at Johnson & Wales University and worked at "Megu" in New York for three years. After returning to Japan, he worked as head sommelier at "NARISAWA" in Minami-Aoyama for 10 years.
At Home Square 2F, 4-24-8 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo
☎03-6803-8436
Closed on Sundays
19:00 Start time: Chef's choice course ¥3
Alcohol pairing: 18,000 yen
(Tax not included, no service charge)
