Enjoy the Breguet Marine Collection

FEATURES WatchTime
2019.09.18

In 2018, Breguet decided to focus all its efforts on building the Marine collection, and at the same time began supporting Swiss environmental conservation organizations active on a global scale. This time, we would like to take a look at the Marine collection released in 2018.

Originally published on watchtime.com
Text by Roger Ruegger

Race for Water

The Race for Water Foundation, sponsored by Breguet, conducts oceanographic research using vessels powered by solar, water, and wind energy.


A connection with the sea that continues since our founding

 The development of timekeeping instruments for ocean exploration has played an important role in Breguet's history, beginning in 1815, shortly after Breguet became a member of the Paris Committee of Longitude, and was awarded the title of chronometer maker certified by the French Royal Navy, the highest honor a French watchmaker could receive at the time.
 The Paris Committee for Longitude was founded in 1795 with the goal of developing astronomy and its applications to geography, navigation, and geodesy (the measurement and understanding of the Earth's physical properties), and was responsible for issuing astronomical ephemeris. It was a highly prestigious organization, composed of a limited number of members, including surveyors, astronomers, navigators, and scientists. As the only watchmaker, Breguet's participation was particularly beneficial to physicists and navigators. He became an authority on watchmaking and contributed to the measurement of longitude at sea.

マリンクロノメーター

A Breguet marine chronometer from 1813.

マリンクロノメーター

A Breguet marine chronometer on display at the Paris Museum of Decorative Arts.

 Marine chronometers were essential for determining a ship's position at sea (much like GPS today), and were typically housed in special mahogany or walnut cases. A gimbal suspension system counteracted the ship's rolling and kept the instrument level, balancing the chronometer.

 The distinctive appearance of that time can still be seen in the current Marine collection. The collection is positioned as a sporty line, and this new model is the first to feature a titanium case. Breguet CEO Thierry Esslinger explained the reason for using titanium: "Titanium is a material that is highly resistant to corrosion, especially seawater. It is also beneficial in markets with high humidity, such as Southeast Asia, so we thought it was an extremely suitable material for the Marine collection."

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At sea, chronometers became the ship's primary timekeeper and were never removed from their protective cases. They were used in conjunction with smaller deck watches, which were portable and used elsewhere on the ship. From the 1950s onwards, there was a gradual shift away from chronometers to radio and satellite navigation. The Royal Observatory in London has a large collection of chronometers on permanent display and for research purposes.

 The Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887, released in 2017 from the Marine collection, was a technically ambitious piece. This watch featured a moving hand (marchante means running in English) in the center of the dial, allowing the equation of time to be read at a glance. Its layout also allowed the cam that controlled the equation of time to be viewed alongside the tourbillon and perpetual calendar. Available in two case materials, 18K rose gold and platinum, each had a 43.9mm diameter and was water resistant to 100m.

 It is noteworthy that this model marked the beginning of the second visual renewal and strengthening of the Marine Collection, which has been running since 1990.

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The appearance of the Marine Collection was revamped in 2017. New elements include lugs that are integrated with the case, fluted decoration on the sides with an expanded sense of grooves, and a crown featuring the initial "B" surrounded by wavy decoration.


"Marine 'Race for Water' Special Edition"

 In 2018, Breguet announced a partnership with the Swiss environmental conservation organization, the Race for Water Foundation. Breguet President Marc A. Hayek commented, "In the 19th century, timekeeping played a central role in maritime navigation. Breguet is committed to preserving this tradition by supporting the Odyssey project, which plays a vital role in our shared future." The Race for Water Foundation's oceanographic research vessel, the Odyssey, is currently on its second mission from 2017 to 2021. Marco Simeoni, president of the Race for Water Foundation, explains, "The new Odyssey project aims to inspire hope by demonstrating that solutions to plastic pollution are real." The Odyssey will visit 35 ports around the world, providing opportunities to meet with scientists and policymakers and sharing knowledge and technologies needed to protect water resources. Breguet will support this initiative through 2021 and will also provide a special watch. The special model, the Marine 5517, has a 40mm titanium case, a blue dial featuring a Clous de Paris pattern depicting the Race for Water boats, and is powered by the automatic caliber 777A. This model is exclusively available to the boat crews.

Race for Water

The dial of the Marine "Race for Water" Special Edition features a guilloched bird's-eye view of the Odyssey, covered in solar panels. Automatic winding (Cal. 777A). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. Ti (diameter 40mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Not for sale.


"Marine 5517"

As a companion model to the Marine "Race for Water" Special Edition, Breguet has launched the Marine 5517, available in three models: white gold, rose gold, and titanium. These models are equipped with the automatic caliber 777A, which boasts a power reserve of approximately 55 hours and an inverted in-line lever escapement with a silicon escapement and silicon balance spring. The 40mm case features the brand's signature fluted pattern on the side, a sapphire crystal case back, and is water resistant to 10 bar. The white gold and rose gold models feature dials with a wave-patterned guilloched finish. The titanium model features a sunburst gold slate-gray dial and Breguet hands with gold facets.

5517

Breguet Marine 5517. Automatic movement (Cal. 777A). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. Diameter 40mm. Water resistant to 10 bar. (Left and right) 18K white gold model 3.1 million yen, (center) 18K rose gold model 3.1 million yen (excluding tax).

5517

Titanium model "Marine 5517." Automatic (Cal. 777A). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. Diameter 40mm. Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 188 million yen (excluding tax).


"Marine Chronograph 5527"

 Before 1810, founder Abraham-Louis Breguet not only created a watch with a seconds hand that could be started and stopped on demand, but also created the forerunner of today's split-seconds chronograph. The Marine Chronograph 5527 continues this tradition with a chronograph featuring three subdials: a minute counter at 3 o'clock, an hour counter at 6 o'clock, and a mould seconds at 9 o'clock. The date display is located between 4 and 5 o'clock. The automatic caliber 582QA, with a power reserve of approximately 48 hours, is equipped with an inverted in-line lever escapement with a silicon escapement and silicon balance spring. Like the Marine 5517, it is available in three models: titanium, 18K rose gold, and white gold.

5527

"Marine Chronograph 5527." Automatic (Cal. 582QA). 28 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. 18KRG (diameter 42.3mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. 366 million yen (excluding tax).

5527

"Case back of the Marine Chronograph 5527.


"Marine Alarm Musical 5547"

 The 2018 Marine collection also introduced a mechanical watch with an alarm function. In addition to the alarm function, the Marine Alarm Musical 5547 also features a second time zone and date display, making it the ideal travel companion for navigators and jet-setters.
 When the alarm function is activated, a bell appears in the aperture at 12 o'clock. The alarm setting time is displayed at 3 o'clock, and the second time zone is displayed on a subdial at 9 o'clock. It also features a power reserve indicator; when fully wound, a short arrow points to a red indicator at 9 o'clock. The date display is at 6 o'clock. The movement boasts a power reserve of approximately 45 hours and is powered by the automatic caliber 519F/1 with an inverted in-line lever escapement. Unlike the two previous models, the Alarm Musical 5547 is water-resistant to 5 bar. This series also comes in three versions: titanium, 18K rose gold, and white gold.

5547

"Marine Alarm Musical 5547." Automatic (Cal. 519F/1). 36 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. Ti (diameter 40mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. 3.1 million yen (excluding tax).


New Sea Routes

 Breguet's reinvention of the Marine collection has been more than expected. For a brand with over 240 years of history and a reputation for classic timepieces, the new Marine offers a surprisingly modern and contemporary look. This is particularly evident in the titanium model with a slate gray dial. The ¥18,800 price point will also appeal to a new demographic seeking a watch from a premium brand like Breguet. The Marine Alarm Musical 5547, featuring a mechanical alarm and a second time zone, has been extremely popular among my peers. This model successfully combines an easy-to-use mechanical complication with a timepiece. And the Marine Équation Marchante 5887, released in 2017, is sure to remain a masterpiece in the watch industry.


Contact info: Breguet Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7211