The profound world of diamond watches

The words "the brilliance of diamonds" have a truly captivating ring to women around the world. Diamonds, a product of nature, have been given a fantastical appearance by human hands, and before long they have come to be known as the finest gemstones. Craftsmen continue to strive to bring out the hidden beauty of diamonds to the fullest extent, and in today's watch industry, diamond watches have come to fascinate men as well. We introduce the profound world of diamond watches, which captivate the hearts of all, regardless of gender.

Women also wear diamond watches, so I want men to try them too.

　Perhaps due to their dazzling image, many men are reluctant to own a diamond. However, when we think of a diamond watch as a symbol of the creations of artisans, we can discover a truly interesting new dimension that transcends the boundaries between men and women. The entry of jewelers into the watch industry and the strengthening of watchmakers' jewelry technology are giving birth to a new dimension of diamond watches that are different from anything seen before.

　The first document to mention diamonds is the "Natural History" by the ancient Roman scholar Pliny the Elder. In it, diamonds are referred to as "strong" from the Greek word for "strong," and are prized for their hardness, which allows them to cut other materials. Due to this image, diamonds have been treated as talismans for protection. However, from the late 14th century, advances in diamond cutting techniques led to the creation of table cuts, rose cuts, and in the 18th century, round brilliant cuts, strengthening their role as dazzling jewelry.

　Just as gemstones, once valued for their nearly unpolished, dull octahedral form, evolved with advances in cutting, and their expression as "jewelry" improved, it is only natural that, now that jewelry technology has reached a mature stage, men are seeking new expressions in watches, which are a tool that symbolizes a man's pride and one of the few decorative items available.The rise of authentic women's watches and the diversification of men's jewelry watches have been driven in part by the entry of jewelers into the watch industry.

　While collaborations between jewelers and watchmakers, incorporating their movements into their designs, have existed for some time, a recent trend is the closer ties between the two parties, resulting in creations that are not only appealing as jewelry watches but also as timepieces. One particularly notable example is the 2013 entry of Harry Winston, the diamond jeweler known as the "King of Diamonds," into the Swatch Group. By incorporating movements co-developed with Blancpain, the brand aims to achieve durability and precision on a par with top-tier specialty watchmakers, demonstrating a commitment to going a step beyond the simple collaborations that jewelers have traditionally pursued. In addition to using high-quality VVS+ diamonds, models from 2013 onward have also been equipped with movements featuring silicon balance springs, demonstrating a level of performance that is even more advanced than traditional Harry Winston watches.

As Nayla Hayek, CEO of Harry Winston and Chairman of the Swatch Group, said, "We aim to create watches that will never destroy Harry Winston's history as a diamond jeweler," the methodology of jewelers' watchmaking today is one in which the gemstones and the movement, that is, the jeweler's sensibility and the watchmaker's technical skills, are not simply added together, but rather show a highly multiplicative synergy.

　While these new endeavors are catching the eye, it is also important to note that long-established watchmakers are strengthening their in-house diamond setting. Unlike jewelry, which captures light in the gemstones, watch setting poses the challenge of protecting the movement while allowing the diamond to shine in a limited space. The fact that they are employing specialized setters to hone their skills is proof that the expression of diamonds is currently being reevaluated in the watch industry and is considered a major theme that needs to be addressed. Now, when skills that transcend the boundaries between watchmakers and jewelers are required, diamond watches are entering a new era.