History and basic knowledge of Cartier. Check out popular models and how to choose.

2021.11.25

Cartier, a pioneer of jewellery watches, is now on the path to becoming a true manufacture. Experience the charm of their collections, which continue to evolve innovatively while preserving the tradition of timeless design ideas.


Basic knowledge about Cartier

Cartier, the creator of the legendary Tank collection in the watch industry, is not only known as a jewelry house, but also as a watchmaker that brings outstanding timepieces to the world.

Before we look at Cartier as a watchmaker, let's first take a look at its history.

A prestigious brand loved by royalty and aristocrats from around the world

Archives Cartier Paris © Cartier
Louis-François Cartier (1819-1904), founder of Cartier, inherited the jewelry workshop at 29 rue Montgueil in Paris (now the area around rue Etienne Marcel in the 1st arrondissement of Paris) from his mentor Adolphe Piccard in 1847 at the age of 28. He later used his excellent skills to grow the workshop into a leading jewelry house.

Cartier is a French luxury jewelry house founded by Louis-François Cartier (1819-1904) in 1847. In 1853, he opened a jewelry boutique in Paris, and just six years later, he had Empress Eugénie, wife of French Emperor Napoleon III, as a client.

Under the third generation, his grandson Louis Cartier, the company became a world-renowned jeweller, and by 1939 had received royal warrants from 15 countries. Currently, the coats of arms of nine of these royal families are displayed on either side of the entrance to the Paris flagship store.

F. Hammond © Cartier
In 1853, Louis-François Cartier moved his workshop to 5, rue Neuve des Petits Champs, and in 1899, he moved it to 13, rue de la Paix in the 2nd arrondissement of Paris, north of Place Vendôme, where his flagship store is still located today.

The words "King of jewellers, therefore jeweller to kings", said to have been left behind by King Edward VII of England (1841-1910), are famous as a symbol of his achievements.

They handle a wide range of products, from jewelry to pens.

Cartier Archives ⓒCartier
Alfred (second from the right), the second generation, and his sons Louis (second from the left), Pierre (right), and Jacques (left), who grew Cartier into a global brand. Pierre opened the London branch in 1902 and handed it over to Jacques four years later, who opened the New York branch in 1909.

Cartier is one of the world's top five jewelers, but it does not just produce jewelry.

What sets Cartier apart from other jewelry brands is its extensive men's collection.

Nils Herrmann, Cartier Collection © Cartier
The Lilliput oil lighter was created by Cartier Paris in 1932. The case is made of yellow gold and platinum and is covered with black enamel, and is decorated with round old-cut diamonds as well as single-cut, baguette-cut, and square-cut diamonds. In the Cartier archives, the name "Lilliput" is used for small items, mainly lighters and fountain pens.

The third generation, the three brothers Louis, Pierre, and Jacques, produced a wide range of sophisticated accessories for men. Cigarette cases, lighters, and other items were sold in Paris, where Louis was based, as well as in London and New York, where Pierre and Jacques were in charge of management. The company gradually gained fans not only among royalty and aristocrats, but also among entrepreneurs.

Today, the company offers a wide range of items, including leather goods with a wide variety of models, writing instruments, lighters, sunglasses, and more.

Nick Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier
This retractable mechanical pencil was made by Cartier Paris in 1929. The yellow gold body is finished with black enamel on the cap side. The jewels are set in platinum and include square-cut and calibré-cut emeralds, one fluted emerald half bead, and rose-cut diamonds.

Nils Herrmann, Cartier Collection © Cartier
"Travel Razor" made by Cartier New York around 1930, crafted from 14K yellow gold and steel.

One side of a long-established watch brand

Patent documents for the "deployant buckle," filed on December 2, 1909. The idea of ​​this buckle, which prevents the strap from easily coming undone even when subjected to impact, was 10 years ahead of other companies. This shows the great potential that Louis Cartier saw in wristwatches. It was fitted to the first Santos, which appeared in 1911. On the right is the deployant buckle fitted to the "Santos de Cartier Chronograph." It has a structure that allows it to be opened and closed easily with a single push.

Cartier is a manufacturer that demonstrates advanced design ideas and is an indispensable part of the history of watchmaking.

The catalyst for this was the third-generation Louis Cartier, who, since taking over the company, has focused on creating unique designs and watchmaking.

However, Cartier had been making wristwatches even before then, and its first wristwatch appeared in 1888. It was a women's bracelet watch with diamonds on the bracelet. At a time when pocket watches were mainstream, watches were considered beautiful jewelry for women, and had a different style from the "wristwatches" we know today.

The metalworking techniques that Cartier has cultivated as a jeweler are one of its strengths. For example, at the time, jewelry mountings were made of silver, which, while easy to handle, had the drawback of turning black over time due to oxidation, making the piece unattractive. So, in 1900, Cartier was the first to adopt platinum.

The melting points of silver are 961.93°C, gold 1064°C, and platinum 1772°C, so they require advanced techniques to be shaped. This technique is also used in the production of jewelry watches. The metalworking techniques cultivated in jewelry making were also applied to watchmaking, and in 1909, Cartier registered the first patent for the "deployant buckle."

*Melting point is from "Chemical Dictionary" (Sanseido)