Oris' 115 years of independence and pride have led to timeless watchmaking

2019.10.14

 On September 5, 2019, Oris held the world premiere of its new model in Shanghai. Journalists were invited not only from Asia but from around the world, and the event was broadcast live from the Swiss headquarters, showing the brand's commitment to its efforts. Based on the Caliber 110, developed to commemorate the company's 110th anniversary, the Caliber 115, the sixth in-house caliber in the series, returns to the original Caliber 110. While the mechanism itself is reminiscent of the original Caliber 110, the product's packaging, a design that breaks away from the traditional Oris aesthetic, surprised many journalists. This, however, is none other than Oris's current strategy, with an eye to the future.

Big Crown ProPilot X Caliber 115

Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115
Based on the Cal. 110 series movement, this timepiece is equipped with the new Cal. 115, which features openwork on the dial, main plate, and bridges, allowing the movement's movement to be more clearly felt. The combination of a modern case inspired by a stealth fighter and a movement with architecturally inspired aesthetics creates a synergistic effect, giving it an even more contemporary impression. Manual winding (Cal. 115). 40 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 240 hours. T (i diameter 44mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 810,000 yen.
Interview and text by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)

Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115

  Oris celebrated its 115th anniversary this year and has now finally announced the sixth in the series, a new model equipped with the in-house developed Calibre 115. This is a surprisingly modern and contemporary model. Oris co-founder Rolf Studer says, "The concept of luxury should originally be exclusive, but today, as symbolized by social media, people no longer want to belong to exclusive groups. They prefer to share information and activities with others. However, there is also a strong sense of independence, and people want watches that suit their individual personalities and lifestyles. Oris has maintained an independent spirit for 115 years since its founding. This is why we are able to respond to the conflicting changes of today's era, where people maintain their independence while also interacting and sharing with each other, seeking exclusivity and inclusion."

 In this context, it makes sense that Oris, a watchmaking company with over 100 years of history, has taken the opportunity of its 110th anniversary to launch its first in-house movement in 35 years, the Caliber 110, and blaze a new trail.

Big Crown ProPilot X Caliber 115

The bezel and inner ring, which are based on the motif of jet engine turbine blades, are a concept that Oris has traditionally used in its ProPilot watches. The non-linear power reserve display at 3 o'clock, a major feature of the Caliber 110 series, has also been made openwork, unifying the design. The luminous paint, which glows blue in the dark, adds an even more contemporary touch to the modern exterior design.
Big Crown ProPilot X Caliber 115

Not only the bezel but also the crown is designed with a turbine blade motif.
Cal. 115

The Cal. 115 is openworked throughout, allowing the gear train to be clearly seen. The two snail cams in the foreground are responsible for making the power reserve indicator non-linear and for stopping the remaining winding indicator hand of the movement, which actually runs for over 240 hours.
Big Crown ProPilot X Caliber 115

The flap-type buckle is inspired by the seatbelts of airplanes, and is designed with consideration not only for appearance but also for ease of use.

 It's clear that Oris isn't just repeating tradition, as they have proven with the series of in-house movements that followed the Calibre 110. This movement, which has a power reserve of approximately 10 days, is not only practical, but also focuses on creating watches that are playful and unique, such as the non-linear power reserve indicator that shows the remaining power reserve in varying intensities. At the same time, while searching for a new image for Oris, they have also pursued the idea of ​​watches "for ordinary people," as advocated by the previous CEO, and it is surely this that has allowed them to continue to provide watches that suit the lifestyles of so many people. Studer explains, "Over the past three years, Oris has researched the market and has been searching for a watch that inspires people. A watch that stirs emotions."

 "This is easier said than done. Openwork may look glamorous, but it would be counterproductive if it compromised the watch's functionality," says Oris Senior Product Design Engineer Lukas Bühlmann.
"The most important thing is that it's technically feasible. Design and function have to go hand in hand. In fact, luxury for Oris is about doing it your own way, hence the slogan 'Go Your Own Way'."

 At first glance, the Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 has a design that is unusual for Oris. However, in terms of its development concept, no other model embodies the "current Oris style" as well.

At the world premiere of Oris' new Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115, held at a hotel in Shanghai, co-founder Rolf Studer (left) passionately spoke about Oris' philosophy and the development concept of the new model, while Asia Region Manager Michael Mayer (right) explained the key points of the exterior design.


Contact info: Oris Japan ☎03-6260-6876