The Little-Known Watch Powerhouse of Germany (Part 2)

2019.11.05

Compared to Switzerland, Germany seems to have very few watch manufacturers. However, in reality, there are many manufacturers, large and small, throughout the country. In this feature, we will introduce a carefully selected selection of brands from among the many brands.

Text by Jens Koch (P127, P130)
Photographs by Marcus Krüger (P127, P130)
Translation by Akiko Ichikawa
[First published in the November 2016 issue of Kronos Japan]

Dresden

LANG & HEYNE

Founded year: 2001
Owner: Marco Lang
Price range: €18,000-€140,000 (¥2.5 million-¥23.5 million)
Annual production: Approximately 50 bottles
Main models: Friedrich August I, Johann, Moritz, Conrad, Albert, Heinrich
Official name: Uhrenmanufaktur Lang & Heyne GmbH
Head office location: Weissenberger Str. 10,D-01324 Dresden
website: https://www.lang-und-heyne.de/

ハインリヒ

ハインリヒ
Reference number: Markgraf Heinrich
Functions: Constant force (power control mechanism), jumping seconds, date display (center pointer date hand, Anterograde jumps from 31st to 1st), power reserve indicator
Movement: Cal. V (manufactured in-house, hand-wound)
Case: 18K pink gold, diameter 40mm
Price: 804 million 6000 yen
[History] While a relatively young brand, founded at the turn of the century, it boasts a strong tradition of watchmaking, with a lineage spanning five generations of watchmakers. Marco Lang, the son of Rolf Lang, who was mentored by him at the Dresden Mathematics and Physics Salon and A. Lange & Söhne, where he restored numerous historical timepieces and trained watchmakers, founded the brand with Mirko Heine, who had trained under his father. While Mirko Heine is no longer with the brand, the small team continues to pursue the creation of high-performance, precision watches using traditional handcrafting techniques. Their style is full of classic elegance, evoking the glamorous court culture of Dresden, renowned as the Florence of the Elbe. Not only the exterior, but the movements also incorporate elegant techniques. Cases are crafted exclusively from precious metals, and over 90% of the components are meticulously handcrafted in a highly attentive workshop atmosphere. These exquisite pieces are produced in small quantities with the aim of being loved even after 100 years, and they truly offer the joy of being handmade.

Contact info: TANAKA Hisaya Odori store ☎052-951-1600


Heimbuchenthal

RAINER BRAND

Founded year: 1993
Owner: Rainer Brandt
Price range: 2700-5500 euros (36-42 yen)
Annual production: 500-600 bottles
Main models: Grand Panama, Argus
Official name: Rainer Brand
Head office address: Frieden Str. 9, D-63872 Heimbuchenthal bei Aschaffenburg
website:https://www.rainerbrand.de/en/

Grand Panama

Grand Panama
Reference number: RB13GKSA1
機能:日付表示
Movement: ETA2892A2 base (automatic winding)
Case: Stainless steel, 40mm diameter
Price: 42 million yen
[History] The workshop is located in the Franconia region of southern Germany. It's a small, family-run workshop in an area known for wine production, not the watch industry. The owner, Rainer Brandt, is a master watchmaker who previously served as factory manager at Chronoswiss. As an etablisseur maker, the company sees watches as "more than just accessories; they reflect the wearer's outlook on life." From the outset, the company meticulously produced small-scale timepieces, and in the late 1990s even produced models featuring deadstock Swiss movements. Following Lemania's acquisition by the Swatch Group, the company began exploring "concern-free" movements, and currently primarily utilizes those based on Technotime movements. The company specializes in simple models that are versatile and offer ease of use, such as long power reserves.

Contact info: Ikspiari ☎047-305-2551


Engelsbrand

STOWA

Founded year: 1927
Owner: Jörg Schauer
Price range: 640-9500 euros (14-58 yen)
Annual production: Approximately 5000 bottles
Main models: Flieger, Antea, Marine
Official name: Stowa GmbH & Co. KG
Head office address: Gewerbepark 16, D-75331 Engelsbrand
website:https://www.stowa.de/

Flieger Classic Sport Logo

Flieger Classic Sport Logo
Reference number: FliegerKlassikSportLogo
Movement: ETA2824-2 (top version, automatic)
Case: Stainless steel, 43mm diameter
Price: 23 million yen
Antea 390 Automatic

Antea 390 Automatic
Reference number: Antea390
機能:日付表示
Movement: ETA2824-2 (top version, automatic)
Case: Stainless steel, 39mm diameter
Price: 17 million yen

[History] The brand name comes from the name of its founder, Walter Storz. The company began manufacturing pocket watches and wristwatches in Hornberg in 1927. When the factory was relocated to Pforzheim in 1938, the current brand name was established. During World War II, the company primarily produced pilot watches for the German military, but the factory was destroyed in a bombing raid. Since the company was located in West Germany after the war, the owner changed, but the brand was rebuilt, producing affordable wristwatches for everyday use as well as dress watches for women. After that, management rights were transferred and the company went through a period of decline, but in the 2000s, Jörg Schauer, a skilled engraver and self-described "watch builder," took over as owner. The company made a fresh start in 2004. The brand's motto is "Pure, Correct, Beautiful." The company's products are handcrafted with a commitment to fair workmanship, a tradition that dates back to its founding. They reflect the character of the people of the Black Forest region, their home base, and are crafted with honesty and determination. Their precision and functional beauty are the epitome of Made in Germany. The design, inspired by pilot watches, is stylish and not just practical.

Contact info: Tick Tack Ebisu Atre store ☎03-5475-8413