Chronographs are one of the most popular mechanisms in mechanical watches. However, not all users have actually used one before purchasing one. In this article, we will explain how to use chronographs, which are popular among both business and leisure enthusiasts, and their various applications.
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The term "chronograph," also known as "chrono," is a combination of the Greek words "chronos," meaning time, and "graphos," meaning to mark.
While there are many models with excellent designs, their defining feature is their functionality. So what are the functions that a chronograph should inherently have?
A mechanism for measuring elapsed time
In more familiar terms, a chronograph is a "stopwatch function" or a "watch equipped with a stopwatch function."
In 1812, Parisian watchmaker Nicolas-Mathieu Rieussec developed a mechanism that measured the elapsed time by measuring the length of an arc marked on the dial with oil-based ink. He named it the chronograph and patented it the following year.
The prototype of the modern chronograph was created by Adolphe Nicole in 1844. The operating parts were equipped with a heart-shaped cam, allowing start/stop/reset functions.
In modern chronographs, the elapsed time is generally displayed on a small dial inside the dial, called an indial.
The long hand generally referred to as the "second hand" is called the "chronograph hand" and is used for measuring time.
In the model shown in the photo, the seconds are displayed on a subdial at 9 o'clock, also known as the "small seconds." The one at 3 o'clock can display measured times up to 30 minutes and is called the "30-minute counter." The mechanism that displays the time measured by such a chronograph hand is referred to as a "chronograph counter" or "counter."
Why are chronograph watches so popular?
The word chronograph is widely known even by people who don't fully understand its mechanism, and the reason is that it's popular.
Its greatest appeal is probably its limited number of controls. A chronograph mechanism cannot function unless operated by the user. Surprisingly, there are actually very few watches with controls that can be operated by the owner.
This "operability" appeals greatly to men. The mechanical look with its numerous subdials also appeals to men who love machines. The development of the chronograph is closely related to the evolution of airplanes and automobiles, and this story, too, makes the chronograph appealing.
Every year, new mechanisms are developed and innovatively designed models are released. The wide variety of designs, from traditional to sporty, and even models that combine other functions, is also behind the popularity of these watches.
This model boasts an automatic chronograph case with a thickness of 8.75mm. A second time zone is displayed via a subdial at 3 o'clock. Automatic (Cal. BVL318). 37 jewels. 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately 55 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 43mm, thickness 8.75mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 2,673,000 yen. (Inquiries) Bvlgari Japan Tel. 03-6362-0100
This collection originates from the original "Type 20" that Breguet supplied to the French Air Force in the 1950s. This "Type XX" is a reproduction of that civilian model. Equipped with a chronograph with a flyback function, the chronograph second hand can be reset and restarted simultaneously, making it an extremely useful pilot's watch. Automatic winding (Cal. 728). 39 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42mm, thickness 14.1mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 2,970,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Breguet Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7211
This monopusher chronograph model was released by Cartier in 2024. The chronograph is operated by a push button mounted coaxially with the crown. Manually wound (Cal. 1928MC). 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately 44 hours. 18K yellow gold case (43.7mm x 34.8mm, 10.2mm thick). Water resistant for everyday use. Limited to 200 pieces worldwide. (Inquiries) Cartier Customer Service Center Tel. 0120-1847-00
Basic usage
It's very simple to use: just start, stop and reset.
A typical chronograph starts and stops with a push button above the crown and resets with a push button below. To start timing, press the upper push button. Pressing the same button again will stop the time. By repeating this process, you can measure the total time.
Then, press the push button below to reset it. This is the basic usage.
The base movement for Omega's Caliber 321 manual-winding chronograph movement was released in 1942 and has since been refined and perfected. It was also featured in the original Speedmaster, released in 1957, and is known for being worn during America's first spacewalk and the first manned moon landing. The Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 is a perfect reproduction of this Caliber 321. Manual winding (Caliber 321B). 17 jewels. 18,000 vph. Power reserve of approximately 55 hours. Stainless steel case (39.7mm diameter, 13.7mm thick). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: 2,453,000 yen. (Inquiries) Omega Tel. 0570-000087
How to use different types of chronographs
Although they are all called chronographs, the data they can measure varies. The combination of the totalizer function and the scales on the dial or bezel allows for measurements and calculations tailored to your needs. Let's take a look at some typical meters.
Telemeter for measuring distance
This model joined Omega's Speedmaster collection in 2021. It features three scales printed on the dial: a telemeter for measuring distance, a tachymeter for measuring speed, and a pulsometer for measuring heart rate. Manually wound (Cal. 9908). 44 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 43mm, thickness 12.8mm). Water resistant to 50m. Price: 1,452,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Omega Tel. 0570-000087
A feature that was useful during the war was the "telemeter," which was used to measure the distance to enemy territory.
The measurement starts when the light from a cannon is fired and stops when the sound of the gunfire is heard. By using the time difference between the speed of light and the speed of sound, it is possible to measure the distance to enemy positions, tanks, warships, etc.
A tachymeter to measure speed
The Chronomat, a pioneer of pilot watches equipped with chronograph functions, is Breitling's signature model, launched in 1983. In 2020, it underwent a complete redesign as a new series with a modern interpretation. Automatic winding (Cal. 01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 44mm, thickness 14.4mm). Water resistant to 200m. 1,325,500 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Breitling Japan Tel. 0120-105-707
Models equipped with a tachymeter have numbers and markings around the outer edge of the dial or on the bezel, which can be used in conjunction with the chronograph hand to calculate average speed.
For example, if you want to know the average speed of a car, start the stopwatch at the beginning of the drive and stop it after traveling 1 km.
At that point, the mark on the tachymeter indicated by the stopwatch hand is the average speed. If the watch is stopped after 500m, half the number on the scale is the average speed, and if the watch is stopped after 250m, one-quarter of the number on the scale is the average speed.
It can easily measure the speed of cars, motorcycles, and even light vehicles such as cars.
Pulse meter to measure pulse rate
As the inscription "FOR 30 PULSATIONS" at the 1 o'clock position indicates, this is a model designed for 30 pulses. It uses the newly developed Cal. 797, the company's first watch to combine a chronograph with a triple calendar display and moon phase. Automatic (Cal. 759). 37 jewels. Power reserve of approximately 65 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40mm, thickness 12.05mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: 3,058,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Jaeger-LeCoultre Tel. 0120-79-1833
Some models are equipped with a pulse meter, which measures pulse rate. This makes it possible to count pulses in just a few seconds. Models are available for 15 beats and 30 beats. 15 or 30 is used as the base number, and the time at which this number is struck is used to calculate the heart rate.
The usage is the same as normal operation, just start and stop. As soon as you start it, start measuring your pulse.
The chronograph hand stops when the set number of beats is reached, and the number it points to becomes the pulse rate for one minute.
Important points to remember for proper use
Chronographs have a sporty design and give off a tough impression. They may appear sturdy, but because they are measuring instruments, they are precision machines and are very delicate. It is important to know how to use them correctly.
How to adjust needle misalignment
The chronograph second hand may become misaligned when changing the battery or turning the crown. If this happens, press and hold the start button for a few seconds to stop it, then press the reset button.
If this doesn't solve the problem, the zero position of the stopwatch hands may be misaligned. The method for resetting the hands to zero varies depending on the model, so please follow the instructions in the instruction manual. Alternatively, contact the manufacturer for repairs.
Precautions when using
There are a few points to keep in mind to ensure that your precious watch lasts a long time. First, try to use the chronograph only as frequently as necessary.
Chronographs use springs as their power source, which can accelerate the deterioration of related parts and significantly affect battery consumption.
When operating the device, it is important to press the buttons in the correct order, as incorrect operation can damage parts.
Strong impacts and magnetic forces are the biggest factors that can cause breakdowns. To ensure long-term use, it is a good idea to have your watch inspected and maintained at a specialist store every three years.
Use your chronograph correctly
The chronograph is an all-purpose watch that suits any occasion, whether it be business, social gatherings, or active leisure activities.
We hope you will use this chronograph correctly and wear it smartly, as it captures the hearts of watch enthusiasts with its high performance and outstanding visuals.
