What is Breguet's legendary Marie Antoinette watch? Introducing a reproduction model

2020.12.10

There are many brands that produce mechanical watches and are considered high-end. However, one that stands out among them and exudes an overwhelming presence is Breguet. We explore the mysterious charm of the No. 160, which is said to have been ordered by Marie Antoinette, who was said to be a Breguet enthusiast.

Breguet Marie Antoinette


Breguet and Marie Antoinette

Some people may not immediately associate Breguet with a luxury watch brand, while others may be able to name the collections.

There are many brands that are more well-known than Breguet, but Breguet has contributed greatly to the development of watches and left its mark on the history of watches.

It is no exaggeration to say that this watch is a work of art, and it has remained one of a kind to this day. Let's explore the appeal of Breguet, which has been loved by important people throughout history.

Breguet Meets Marie Antoinette

Breguet has a long and profound history. Founded in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823), Breguet is a legendary genius engineer who is said to have accelerated the history of watches by 200 years.

Abraham-Louis Breguet

Founder Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) was born in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, and trained as a watchmaker in France. In 1775, he established a watch workshop on the Île de la Cité in Paris. In addition to numerous inventions that have led to the development of modern watches, such as the automatic winding (perpétuelle), perpetual calendar, and tourbillon mechanism, he also produced numerous models with stunningly beautiful watch designs.

His genius can be seen in the fact that three-quarters of the mechanisms used in modern watches were invented or improved by Breguet. Among them, the automatic winding mechanism, the perpetual calendar, and the tourbillon are innovative technologies that are still talked about today and have had a major impact on the entire watch industry.

Many historical figures, including Tsar Alexander I of Russia (1777-1825), Queen Caroline Murat of Naples (1782-1839), and Napoleon Bonaparte (1769-1821), are also Abraham-Louis Breguet enthusiasts.

And his meeting with Marie Antoinette (1755-1793), wife of King Louis XVI of France (1754-1793), was also of great importance to Abraham-Louis Breguet.

Tourbillon mechanism diagram

On June 26, 1801, Abraham-Louis Breguet obtained a 10-year patent for a regulating mechanism known as the "tourbillon." The illustration below shows a watercolor diagram of the tourbillon mechanism that was included with the patent application. However, it was difficult to fully realize this principle in a watch, and it took two experimental models before it was finally completed in 1805.

I continued to love Breguet watches

Genuine mechanical watches can sometimes give off a rugged image to the viewer, but at the same time, their intricate mechanisms exude a noble elegance that has captivated royalty around the world.

Marie Antoinette was one of them. She sought the best in everything, and when it came to watches, she only owned the most beautiful and exquisite items.

It was Abraham-Louis Breguet watches that captivated her. The complex movements of these timepieces are inorganic and monotonous, but she felt that their exceptional precision even possessed an artistic quality.

She owned several watches and recommended his timepieces to many of his high-ranking guests both at home and abroad, eventually becoming Abraham-Louis Breguet's greatest and greatest patron.

Then in 1783, a man claiming to be an emissary of Marie Antoinette placed an order with Breguet that would go down in history as a watch.

マリー・アントワネット

Queen Marie Antoinette of France (1755-1793) was a devotee of Abraham-Louis Breguet watches. King Louis XVI, who had a keen eye for mechanical technology, is also recorded as having purchased an Abraham-Louis Breguet watch in 1784. Marie Antoinette not only owned Breguet watches, but also enthusiastically introduced them to members of the upper class, including royalty and aristocrats, both at home and abroad. This helped Breguet gain a large customer base.


The legendary Breguet watch No. 160 (Marie Antoinette)

Breguet Marie Antoinette

Among the watches created by Abraham-Louis Breguet, who rewrote the history of watches and laid the foundation for modern watches, there is one model that has become legendary: the complicated Breguet No. 160, commonly known as the Marie Antoinette.

The process leading up to this order is still shrouded in mystery. We take a closer look at the background of this mysterious masterpiece.

Ordered by a mysterious person

In 1783, Breguet received an order from a man who claimed to be an emissary for Marie Antoinette.

The order was for a complicated watch to be made, and the details were astonishing.

"I want you to remove all restrictions on time and cost and create the world's best watch incorporating all of the complex mechanisms."

There are various versions of this story, some suggesting that the man was actually a messenger from Marie Antoinette, others that he was a high-ranking courtier intent on winning her heart.

Completed after Breguet's death

At this man's request, Abraham-Louis Breguet began working on a complicated watch. It was an important task for the watchmaker to deliver the finest watch to the Queen, who had already been a fan of his watches.

However, while production was still in progress, the French Revolution broke out in 1789. Abraham-Louis Breguet also emigrated to Switzerland to escape the riots, and production of the watch was temporarily halted.

The Queen was executed by the Revolutionary Tribunal shortly afterwards. Even after learning of her death, Abraham-Louis Breguet continued to make watches for her. However, he passed away before the watch could be completed.

It was 44 years after the order was placed, 34 years after the death of the Queen, and four years after the death of Abraham-Louis Breguet that the watch was completed by his apprentices. This is the legendary watch, "No. 160" (Marie Antoinette).


Reproduction of Breguet No. 160 (Marie Antoinette)

The completed No. 160 went unclaimed and remained in the Breguet family's possession until 1867, when it was passed on to Sir David Lionel Salomons, a watch enthusiast and Breguet collector.

After Lord Salomons' death in 1925, his family donated the clock to the L.A. Mayer Museum of Islamic Art in Jerusalem in the 1960s, but it was stolen from the museum in 1983.

Thorough investigation of old documents

Concerned about the disappearance of this greatest masterpiece, a heritage of human history, Breguet secretly launched a project to reissue it in 2004.

The reproduction was based on extensive research into past documents and models, and was produced based on records and original drawings stored in the archives.

In late 2007, just before the completion of the reissue, a stolen replica, later verified as authentic by Breguet, was discovered in a collector's collection. In the end, Breguet reproduced the original without ever seeing it or examining it closely.

A faithful reproduction of a legendary watch

In order to faithfully reproduce not only the mechanism and design, but also all the details, including materials, production was carried out without any compromise.

The 63mm case is made of yellow gold in a special mold, bringing to life even the most delicate details, including the unique automatic winding mechanism known as the "Perpétuelle" from Abraham-Louis Breguet's time, which has been recreated to the last detail.

NO.160 Marie Antoinette

NO.1160 (Marie Antoinette)
This is a reproduction of the "NO. 1160" (Marie Antoinette), manufactured based on existing drawings and documents. It features Abraham-Louis Breguet's inventions: a parachute (shock-absorbing mechanism), Breguet hands, gongs (minute repeater), equation of time, automatic winding, and perpetual calendar. The see-through design allows you to fully appreciate the movement. Automatic winding. 63 jewels. Power reserve of approximately 48 hours. Yellow gold (diameter 63mm, thickness 26.2mm).

Presented at Baselworld 2008

The reissue model was finally announced in April 2008. A press conference was held at Baselworld, the world's largest watch and jewelry fair held in Switzerland, where the modern "Marie Antoinette" watch, numbered No. 1160, was unveiled.

This news spread like wildfire among watch enthusiasts around the world, causing a huge shock. Some wealthy watch enthusiasts have offered to buy the watch, but Breguet has not agreed to sell it.

Not only that, but this reissue model has only been shown on a handful of occasions, which may be fitting for a masterpiece shrouded in mystery.

This masterpiece is packed with numerous inventions by Abraham-Louis Breguet, but it does not feature a tourbillon. This is because this mechanism had not yet been developed when the order was placed in 1783. The tourbillon patent application was filed in 1801. Had Marie Antoinette's life taken a different turn, this watch would undoubtedly have been part of her collection.

NO.1160 Marie Antoinette

The No. 1160 Marie Antoinette was unveiled at Baselworld in April 2008. The watch is held by the late Nicolas G. Hayek, who was CEO of the Swatch Group at the time and ordered the production of a reissue. Equipped with numerous inventions by Abraham-Louis Breguet, this watch remains one of the pinnacles of complication.


Marie Antoinette loved Breguet

Throughout the long history of watches, Breguet has produced the finest timepieces. Marie Antoinette, an avid fan of Abraham-Louis Breguet, even requested a "simple Breguet watch" while imprisoned. This watch was delivered in September 1792 and accompanied her through her final days.

Text by Ken Kawabe


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