It's no wonder that Rolex diving watches are so popular: their exciting history, collaborations with experts, one-of-a-kind designs, and highly precise and robust in-house movements inspire the desires of enthusiasts.
Photographs by Marcus Krüger, Rolex
Translation by Yoshie Okamoto
Measuring instruments at work in the deep sea
Rolex currently offers four diving watches: the Oyster Perpetual Submariner, the Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date, the Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller, and the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea. In terms of case size, the Submariner and Submariner Date share the same 40mm case. The Submariner Date collection is also available in a variety of materials and with a variety of dial and bezel colors.
The first Submariner model was released in 1953.
The Submariner model without a date display is the perfect entry-level model for Rolex divers' watches. The Submariner was the brand's first diver's watch, released in 1953. When it was first released, the bezel used to measure diving time could be rotated in both directions. At the time, the Submariner's water resistance was still only 100m, but by 54 it had been improved to 200m.
Even before introducing diver's watches, Rolex was known for its waterproof wristwatches with patented waterproof cases known as "Oyster." Rolex also knew how to effectively promote the "Oyster" in the media. In 1927, Mercedes Gleitze became the first British woman to successfully swim across the Strait of Dover, the eastern end of the English Channel. She wore a waterproof Rolex watch on her wrist during the 15-hour swim. Upon achieving this feat, Rolex featured it on the front page of the London daily newspaper, the Daily Mail. Naturally, this provided a major publicity boost for Rolex watches.
Rolex has also developed a watch with high water resistance suitable for use in deep waters: the Deepsea Special. Since the 1950s, the Deepsea Special has accompanied numerous deep-sea expeditions. One of the highlights was the January 23, 1960, expedition by Jacques Piccard and Don Walsh in their submersible, the Trieste, to the deepest point of the Mariana Trench, 10,916 meters below sea level, just a few meters above Challenger Deep. The Deepsea Special, attached to the exterior of the submersible, survived this mission as well. This prototype Deepsea Special was never mass-produced for collections. Its prominent hemispherical crystal and 36 mm thick case made it unsuitable for everyday use.
Prototype model. Reached a depth of 10,916 m on January 23, 1960.
Prototype model. Reached a depth of 10,908m in 2012.
Submariner
The current Submariner is slim for a diver's watch, with a case diameter of 40 mm and a thickness of 12.5 mm (measured). The models without a date display are powered by the in-house automatic movement, caliber 3130, while the models with a date display are powered by caliber 3135. Both models offer a power reserve of approximately 48 hours, and their precision is guaranteed by testing conducted by the independent Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) and by Rolex's own more stringent standards. Rolex's standard for a Superlative Chronometer is an average deviation of +2 to -2 seconds per day. The Rolex Glidelock extension system allows for fine adjustment of the bracelet length, allowing the Submariner to be worn over a diving suit. Like all Rolex diver's watches, it features a metal bracelet and a unidirectional ceramic bezel.
The Submariner without a date display inherits the design of Rolex's first diver's watch. Automatic movement (Cal. 3130). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 40mm). Water resistant to 300m.
