The appeal and features of the IWC Portugieser. Introducing four major models.

IWC is a well-known Swiss watch manufacturer known for its robust and simple designs. Its flagship collection, the Portugieser, embodies the history of IWC's design philosophy and design codes. This time, we will introduce its appeal and features.

Discover IWC

IWC (International Watch Company) is a Swiss watch manufacturer based in Schaffhausen in the German-speaking part of the world.

As a result, it stands out from the established manufacturers in southwestern Switzerland, such as Geneva and La Chaux-de-Fonds, in terms of its origins and design philosophy, and is characterized by a German approach that emphasizes theory and functionality.

IWCとは

Schaffhausen, located in northern Switzerland near the German border, is home to IWC (International Watch Company), which was founded in 1868. IWC is a manufacture that stands out from the established maisons in southwestern Switzerland in terms of its origins and design philosophy.

Since the days of pocket watches, the company has continued to make simple, sturdy watches that are similar to German luxury watches, and its wristwatches are characterized by a stylish finish that emphasizes reliable timekeeping and dial visibility.

The brand offers six regular collections: Portugieser, Pilot's Watch, Ingenieur, Aquatimer, Da Vinci, and Portofino, and has earned high praise not only from watch enthusiasts but also from those who seek everyday wear.

IWC History

Founded in 1868 by American watchmaker and engineer Florentine Ariosto Jones, the company's notable early achievements include the introduction of a groundbreaking pocket watch equipped with the Pallweber system, which displayed hours and minutes digitally (1885), a wristwatch using a small movement from a women's pocket watch (1899), and IWC's first movement specifically designed for wristwatches (1915).

In 1936, the company released its first pilot's watch for the Royal Air Force, and in 39, it began producing the Portugieser at the request of a Portuguese watch merchant. In 44, talented watchmakers Albert Pellaton and Kurt Klaus joined the company, and in 57, the company established itself as a manufacture.

IWC Features and Collections

IWC is a long-established Swiss watch manufacturer with an English name and a German design philosophy. While its design is German, it has also established itself as a leading Swiss watch manufacturer over its 150-year history.

Here we will look at IWC's design philosophy, tradition of permanent repair, and main collections.

Design

IWC is an exception among the long-established Swiss watchmakers, and does not use extravagant decorations such as diamonds on the bezel or intricate guilloching on the dial. Even models equipped with complicated mechanisms are understated. The emphasis is on visibility and operability, with a clean and refined design.

Many of their models are also based on unisex designs, making IWC an attractive choice for luxury watches that can be worn casually in any situation.

永久修理保証

IWC also holds a special position in that it offers a lifetime repair guarantee for all watches released since its founding year, 1868. Other than IWC, only a limited number of top-tier watch manufacturers, such as Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, offer a lifetime repair guarantee.

This is because repairing antique watches is cost prohibitive, and the longer a manufacturer's history, the greater the risk of permanent repairs. However, IWC has promised to remanufacture even lost parts, which also helps to maintain and increase the asset value of its watches.

IWC watches, both pocket watches and wristwatches, have an established antique market and are in a class of their own in that they never disappoint collectors.

Main Collections

IWC's flagship collections are the Portugieser and Pilot's Watch. Both have particularly long histories and have undergone numerous updates to their designs and movements.

The Portugieser was created in response to a request from a Portuguese watch dealer for a wristwatch with the precision of a marine chronometer, and in 1939 was an exceptionally large wristwatch with a case diameter of 42mm.

Developed for the Royal Air Force's fighter pilots, the Pilot's Watch is a tough wristwatch that is highly durable and anti-magnetic.

A derivative model developed for the German Navy in 40, the Big Pilot's Watch, was an unprecedentedly large wristwatch with a case diameter of 55mm.

The appeal and features of the Portuguese

Pilot's watches are military watches that boast unparalleled performance and recognition, but the Portugieser is IWC's flagship collection as a watch suitable for all wearers.

Here, we will look at the distinctive design codes of the Portugieser.

Second hand design

The Portugieser collection is based on models equipped with complex mechanisms such as chronographs and perpetual calendars, but the dials are clean and concise, without giving the impression of being overloaded with information.

This high level of visibility is likely due in large part to the exquisite balance between the slim leaf-shaped hands and the unobtrusive Arabic indexes.

Furthermore, IWC often uses blue, gold, or silver for the hands and indices, and some current collections feature a blue chronograph second hand, making the watch stand out even more.

Dial Layout

Another distinctive feature of the Portugieser is that by adjusting the layout of the dial, it has given a smart finish to a chronograph, which tends to have a mechanical impression.

A typical chronograph often has subdials at the 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions, or at 6, 9, and 12 o'clock.

Models such as the Portugieser Chronograph only have a small second hand at 6 o'clock and a 30-minute counter at 12 o'clock, and do not have a 12-hour counter.

Furthermore, the inset dial has been enlarged to the extent that it takes up half of the index, and is arranged symmetrically above and below.

The slender outer bezel is fitted with an inner bezel measuring 1/4 seconds, helping to ensure clear visibility on the large dial, allowing you to check the time.

How to Choose a Portuguese Watch

The Portugieser model name makes it easy to determine the complex mechanisms it contains, and the price ranges are also clear. Since variations in cases and dials are also standardized, when choosing a watch to purchase, it's best to first consider its functionality.

Functionality

When choosing a Portugieser, consider the type of movement you want, as this will greatly affect the watch face and price range.

The classic chronograph model comes in a simple face with two subdials and no date window, and another attractive feature is that models equipped with in-house movements are available for under 100 million yen.

Models equipped with a calendar function can be broadly divided into two types: annual calendars and perpetual calendars.

Models equipped with an annual calendar do not automatically adjust the date at the end of February, so the date must be adjusted manually only once a year on March 1. On the other hand, models equipped with a perpetual calendar do not require manual adjustment, but they are more expensive.

Case material and dial color

The basic combination of a stainless steel case and a silver-plated dial is the Portuguese watch, but there are several variations depending on the model. For example, if you choose a stainless steel case, you can choose a blue or black dial, or if you choose a luxurious red gold case, you can choose a slate gray dial.

Generally, the price does not change depending on the dial color, but red gold increases the price and status, making it more of a dress watch.

Clasp and index processing

The previous collection of Portugieser watches had a buckle-type clasp and embossed indices, but the current collection has a strap with a D-buckle and applied indices, which improves the watch's comfort, stability, and visibility.

If you're looking for a more traditional buckle or embossed indices, you'll have to search the secondary market for stock, but unless you have a strong attachment to a discontinued model, it's best to choose from the current model, which has been thoroughly improved.

Main models

From the aforementioned Portugieser variations, we will introduce four models with different features.

Portugieser Automatic 40

While retaining the original design released in 1939, it has been given a facelift with the addition of railway tracks and applied indexes. The 40mm case, which is more compact than other models, and the simple dial exude a timeless, modern flair.

Portuguese Chronograph

This watch features a striking deep claret-colored dial. The transparent sapphire crystal case back reveals the column-wheel in-house chronograph movement, Cal. 69355. The newly developed butterfly folding clasp further enhances the watch's comfort.

Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42

This legendary complication, designed in the 1980s, is now featured for the first time in the Caliber 82000 family. All calendar displays are perfectly synchronized, so even if the movement stops, the date can be adjusted using the crown alone. The Pellaton automatic winding mechanism uses ceramic components and boasts a power reserve of approximately 60 hours.

Portuguese Yacht Club Moon & Tide

Since 2010, the Portugieser Yacht Club has been known as a highly versatile marine sports watch, suitable for both water and land use. This 2020 model is the first from IWC to feature a tide indicator. The subdial at 6 o'clock displays the predicted times of high and low tide. The double moon phase display at 12 o'clock also displays information on spring and neap tides, as well as the strength of the tidal current.

Discover the charm of the Portugieser

The appeal of the Portugieser is its stylish design, with a slim bezel, large dial, slender leaf-shaped hands, and simple Arabic indexes.

Why not add the Portugieser to your collection, as it creates a simple and elegant look on your wrist and offers the peace of mind of knowing that it is eligible for permanent repairs?

Contact info: IWC Tel.0120-05-1868