Everything has a name, and each name has a meaning and a reason for being named. So, what is the origin of the name of that famous watch? In this column, we will explore the secrets behind the names of watches and introduce them along with their anecdotes.
This time, we will explore the deep connection between Breguet and aviation, and the origin of the name of the company's iconic chronograph, the Type XX, which tells the story of that history.
Photographs by Masanori Yoshie
Breguet Type XX
The original Type XX for the French Air Force was equipped with a 30-minute counter, but this model, nicknamed "Aéronavale," had the minute counter at 3 o'clock changed to a 15-minute counter. Delivered to the French Naval Air Service on January 13, 1960, the minute counter was changed to 15 minutes because the aircraft's pre-flight check time was 15 minutes. Chronograph with flyback function. Approximately 500 were produced at the time. Manual winding (Cal. 222). 17 jewels. 18,000 vph. Stainless steel (38mm diameter). Exhibited by Breguet.
Breguet and Aviation
It is well known that Abraham-Louis Breguet was awarded the title of "L'Horloger De La Marine" (Watchmaker to the Ministry of the Navy) by the Kingdom of France for his outstanding marine chronometer craftsmanship. Even after his death, Breguet continued its relationship with the French Navy, supplying deck watches and precision instruments. In the first half of the 20th century, the company expanded into the field of aviation instruments, including cockpit chronographs, and deepened its relationship with the French Air Force.
It is also widely known that Louis-Charles Breguet, the fifth generation of the Breguet family, was a legendary figure who left a significant mark on French aviation by developing numerous classic aircraft.
Pilot's Watch "Type XX"
In 1954, Breguet produced the French military pilot's watch "Type XX" at the request of the French Air Force. This is the ancestor of the "Type XX" chronograph collection, which is Breguet's signature watch today.
"Type XX" was originally the name of the French Air Force's pilot watch standard. After World War II, the French Air Force began formulating new standards for military pilot watches, and in 1952 established the Type XX standard.
The most distinctive features of the Type XX standard were that it was a chronograph with a flyback function. It also had subdials at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions, and a black dial. Other specifications included the case diameter, precision, power reserve, and other small details.
Based on these, several watch manufacturers were selected as suppliers. Models that conformed to this standard were called "Type XX." In other words, they were the same as the well-known British military watches "6BB" and "W10." There were also "Type XX" models made by various watch manufacturers, and Breguet was merely one of them.
However, Breguet's "Type XX" stood out for its excellent accuracy and durability. As a result, Breguet became the standard for the "Type XX" and sold it to many private companies and the general public in addition to the military, becoming very popular. Thus, the name "Type XX" eventually became Breguet's exclusive property.
Reborn as a sports collection
Then in 1995, Investcorp, which had been the owner of the Breguet brand since 1987, took notice of the Type XX, which had already been discontinued at the time, and revived it as part of its sports collection.
The third generation of the Type XX was revived in 1995. The second-generation Bakelite bezel was replaced with a stainless steel one. While retaining the original design, it was changed to a three-counter design with the addition of a 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock. The minute counter at 3 o'clock retains the design of the original 15-minute counter, but the Cal. 582 movement also features a 30-minute counter, resulting in a minute counter with two minutes per division. Chronograph with flyback function. Automatic (Cal. 582). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 39mm).
This was the first model actually made for civilian use, and the biggest change was the inclusion of an automatic chronograph movement. Another major change was the change from two subdials to three. Another notable feature was the inclusion of Breguet's signature coin edge on the case side. Another eye-catching feature was the rotating bezel with minute markers, which conformed to the Type XI standard established in 1956 after the Type XX standard.
Another major change was the model name, which was changed to "Type XX Aeronavale." In 1998, a new model with a date display, the "Type XX Transatlantic," was added.
First released in 1998. This is the fourth generation of the Type XX. The dial's five-minute indices and hour and minute hands are made of 18K gold, and the dial surface has also been given a slightly glossy finish, making it a high-end Type XX model. It is equipped with the Caliber 582Q, which adds a date display to the Type Twenty Aeronavale. Automatic winding (Caliber 582Q). 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 39mm).
So, where do these two names come from? First, "Aéronavale" stands for "Naval Air Corps." The French Naval Air Corps was a unit with which Breguet had a particularly close relationship, having served as its official supplier since 1930. It was also one of the suppliers of the first model of the "Type XX," completed in 1954.
On the other hand, "Transatlantic" means "crossing the Atlantic Ocean." And when we talk about crossing the Atlantic Ocean, we are reminded of the aircraft developed by Louis-Charles Breguet, which was used in the first non-stop flight between Paris and New York in 1930. This was one of Louis-Charles Breguet's greatest achievements.
So perhaps the names "Aeronavale" and "Transatlantique" were chosen from such anecdotes. I think they are quite good names, evoking the deep connection between Breguet and aviation that "Type XX" alone does not convey. What do you think?
The Aéronavale and Transatlantic were a worldwide hit, becoming popular models that dramatically increased Breguet's production. They continued to be produced even after Breguet became part of the Swatch Group in 1999, and the Type XX became a well-established Breguet model name.
However, the names "Aeronavale" and "Transatlantic" have now disappeared, and many fans seem to be sad about this.
Therefore, the current lineup consists of three series: "Type XX," "Type XX," and "Type XXII." "Type XX" is a model equipped with a central coaxial counter and day/night indicator that was introduced in 2004, and is unrelated to the aforementioned French Air Force pilot watch standard "Type XX." "Type XXII" is a high-beat model with a frequency of 72,000 vph that was introduced in 2010, and is also completely unrelated to the name of the standard.
In other words, the Type XX and Type XXII are Breguet's own evolution of the Type XX. So what further evolutionary models will emerge in the future? We look forward to seeing them.
First released in 2004. Fifth generation of Type XX. The 60-minute counter, previously at 3 o'clock, has been moved to the center and is now coaxial with the chronograph second hand. A 24-hour hand indicating day and night has been added where the minute counter previously sat at 3 o'clock. The diameter has also been increased from 39.5mm to 42mm. Automatic winding (Cal. 584Q). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 42mm). Water resistant to 100m.
First released in 2010. This is the sixth generation of the Type XX. The Type XX has been upgraded to an ultra-high beat of 20 vibrations per second, up from 8 vibrations per second. The central red hand is the chronograph second hand, making one rotation every 30 seconds. Therefore, the total time shown in the photo above is 21 minutes and 49 seconds. It uses a silicon escapement for superior power transmission efficiency. The case diameter has been increased from 42mm for the Type XX to 44mm, giving it an even more striking presence. As with previous models, all counters have a flyback function. Automatic winding (Cal. 589F). 28 jewels. 72,000 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Stainless steel (44mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m.
Contact info: Breguet Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7211
Writer and editor. Writes about men's lifestyles in general for publications such as "LEON" and "MADURO." He also writes about watches in a series of articles and appears in many videos for the web magazine "FORZA STYLE."
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