As we get through the cold winter, a diving watch is definitely something to consider. Here, we'll take a look at the 2019 models recommended by the WatchTime editorial team, the American version of Chronos.
Text by Mark Bernardo
Edited by Tsuyoshi Hasegawa
Articles published in March 2020
Blancpain
Blancpain has released several historically inspired new additions to its iconic Fifty Fathoms series, and among its flagship collection, this luxurious blue and gold version is a must-see.
Housed in a 45mm 18K rose gold case and water-resistant to 300m, this watch marks the first time that precious metals have been used in the Fifty Fathoms series, which made its earth-shattering debut in 1953. The blue ceramic dial, also a first for the Fifty Fathoms, boasts a luminous cobalt-like hue, a sunburst pattern at the center, and a more matte finish at the edges. A highlight is the ratcheted unidirectional rotating diver's bezel, protected by a scratch-resistant, domed sapphire crystal. The hour markers and hands are coated with Super-LumiNova for enhanced legibility, even in dark conditions and at great depths. The Blancpain in-house Caliber 1315, characterized by its robustness and chronometer-certified precision, can be admired through the caseback. The watch's three barrels provide a remarkable 120-hour (5-day) power reserve.

Automatic winding (Cal. 1315). 35 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 120 hours. 18KRG (diameter 45.00mm, thickness 15.40mm). Water resistant to 300m. 352 million yen (excluding tax).
De Bethune
De Bethune is a small Swiss watchmaking company better known for its high complications than for its practical tool watches. The DB28GS Grande Bleu is the company's first diver's watch. This unique timepiece boasts a power reserve of approximately five days and is powered by De Bethune's 27th in-house movement, featuring a titanium and white gold balance wheel.
The 44mm case is crafted from titanium and is water-resistant to 100m. The mid-sized lugs feature a new design with black zirconium inserts, matching the rest of the case. The diving scale numerals are placed on the sapphire crystal, further reducing the overall thickness. The unidirectional rotating bezel is also a first for De Bethune. The most ingenious mechanism is the mechanical power generation system, which uses no electricity or electronics, enabling the bezel to be illuminated with blue-white light from all four sides. Pressing the pusher at 6 o'clock activates the power generation system through two barrels and a miniaturized gear train, illuminating the watch. However, when the power reserve reaches one day (indicated by a discreet display between 9 and 10 o'clock), the power generation system is disabled to conserve energy.

Manual winding (Cal. DB2080). 51 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 120 hours. Ti (diameter 44mm, thickness 12.8mm). Water resistant to 10 bar.
Glashütte Original
Glashütte Original, which announced its first absence from Baselworld in 2019, has announced a new collection called the "Specialist." Inspired by Germany's Cold War era, the diver's watch debuted as the SeaQ line, with the "Specialist SeaQ Panorama Date" being its flagship model. Like the other new models in this collection, it is based on the "Spezimatic Type RP TS 200," a model developed for divers in the 1960s and 70s. While the other new models have a 39.5mm diameter, the "Panorama Date" boasts a larger case diameter of 43.2mm and is water resistant to 300m.
The stainless steel case is fitted with a unidirectional rotating bezel. The dial is available in black or blue with a sunburst finish, and features a curved sapphire crystal, luminous applied indexes, and uniquely shaped hands. The 4 o'clock position features the complication mechanism that gave the model its name, an outsize date, set in two apertures. The movement is the in-house automatic caliber 39-13, which has a long power reserve of 100 hours and a stop-seconds function.

Automatic winding (Cal. 36-13). 41 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 100 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 43.2 mm). Water resistant to 300 m.
Longines
Longines has introduced a new, sporty HydroConquest model in black ceramic. The 43mm case is crafted from high-tech ceramic and zirconium oxide, its chemical formula "ZrO2" proudly displayed on the black dial. Despite its strikingly dark and monochromatic appearance, the watch's distinctive look is enhanced by numerous finishes that add visual interest. These include a matte dial, a polished main case, a round satin-finish bezel, and a matte and circular satin-finish caseback. The dial features large, highly legible Arabic numerals at 12, 9, and 6 o'clock. The indexes and hands are luminous, and the date display is located at 3 o'clock. The 300m water-resistant case houses the automatic caliber L888.3, developed exclusively for Longines, with a 64-hour power reserve. The black rubber strap completes the sleek look.

Automatic movement (Cal. L888). 21 jewels. 25,200 vph. Power reserve approximately 64 hours. Ceramic (diameter 43mm). Water resistant to 30 bar. Price: 443,000 yen (excluding tax).
