Six historic models that awaken passion for the past

FEATURES WatchTime
2021.03.27

Long-selling models that have been passed down to the present day. When a watch is produced that recreates the original design of a watch, enthusiasts can "capture" the history of design. This time, we will look at six historic models that will awaken your passion for the past.

Originally published on watchtime.com
Text by Alexander Krupp
Articles published in March 2020

Rolex
"Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II"

Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

(Top) "Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II." Automatic (Cal. 3285). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. 28,800 vph. Stainless steel (40mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. (Bottom) The first Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master, made in 1955.

GMT Master II

 With its 24-hour hand and corresponding rotating bezel, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is the quintessential traveler's watch. In 1983, Rolex introduced the GMT-Master II, an improved version of the GMT-Master that was easier to use. Unlike the original GMT-Master from 1955, the GMT-Master II now allows the main hour hand to be moved quickly forward or backward using the crown. Previously, the two hour hands were linked, and if you wanted to display a second time zone, you had to adjust it by turning the rotating bezel. A popular stainless steel model with a blue and red bezel reminiscent of the original made a comeback in 2018.


Breitling
"Navitimer B01 Chronograph 46"

Navitimer B01 Chronograph

(Top) The Navitimer B01 Chronograph 46, released in 2018. Automatic (Cal. 01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 46mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 910,000 yen (excluding tax). (Bottom) A Navitimer made in 1952. Early models were equipped with either the Venus 178 or Valjoux 72 movement. (Inquiries) Breitling Japan Tel. 03-3436-0011

Navitimer B01 Chronograph

 The Navitimer enjoys unwavering support not only from pilots but also from enthusiasts on the ground. Its birth in 1952, during the early days of the aviation industry, is closely linked to the time. Since then, various variations have been produced, including models equipped with the Chronomatic, developed in collaboration with TAG Heuer and others, models with 100m water resistance, LCD models, and three-hand models without stopwatch functions. However, models that retain their classic appearance, such as the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 46, remain. Differences from the original include a larger size and contrasting colors on the subdials.


IWC
"Portugieser Chronograph"

Portuguese Chronograph

(Top) The Portugieser Chronograph, released in 2019. Manual winding (Cal. 69355). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 46 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 41.0 mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 874,500 yen (excluding tax). (Bottom) The first model of the Portugieser, made in 1939. (Inquiries) IWC Tel. 0120-05-1868

Portuguese

 IWC's Portugieser is renowned as the ancestor of big watches. The first Portugieser was created to meet the needs of two Portuguese watch dealers who wanted a nautical wristwatch with the precision of a marine chronometer. It housed a highly accurate pocket watch movement in a 41.5mm stainless steel case. Its easily readable Arabic numerals and the slim bezel stainless steel case seen on the Portugieser Chronograph are reminiscent of the first model from 1939.


Seiko
"Prospex" Seiko Diver 55th Anniversary Limited Edition Model

Prospex Seiko Diver 55th Anniversary Limited Edition Model

(Top) "Prospex" Seiko Diver 55th Anniversary Limited Edition Model. Reference SBEX011. Automatic (Cal. 8L55). 37 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. Ever Brilliant Steel (diameter 44.8mm). 300m saturation diving water resistance. Limited to 1100 pieces worldwide. 700,000 yen (excluding tax). (Bottom) 300m water resistant diver's watch made in 1968. (Inquiries) Seiko Watch Customer Service Tel. 0120-061-012.

セイコーダイバー

 The first Japanese-made diver's watch was a 150m water-resistant automatic watch released by Seiko in 1965. Three years later, in 1968, the company released a high-frequency diver's watch with a 10-beat movement and increased water resistance to 300m. In 2020, to commemorate the 55th anniversary of the birth of the Japanese-made diver's watch, Seiko released a trilogy of redesigns paying homage to the timepiece. One of these is the Ref. SBEX011, a remake of a 1968 diver's watch. Like the original, this model features an in-house caliber that beats 36,000 vibrations per hour. The case is made of corrosion-resistant "Ever Brilliant Steel," and while the design follows the original model, it incorporates a blue-gray color scheme for a modern touch.


Jaeger LeCoultre
"Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox"

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox

(Top) The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox, released in 2018. Automatic movement (Cal. 956). 23 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 45 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 42mm). Water resistant to 200m. 1,312,000 yen (excluding tax). Limited to 1000 pieces worldwide. (Bottom) The original Memovox Polaris, made in 1968. (Inquiries) Jaeger-LeCoultre Tel. 0120-79-1833

Memovox Polaris

 With its elegant appearance and water resistance that can be relied on even in sports scenes, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris is perfect for wearing at the beach and is also a reliable watch that will remind you not to miss an important appointment. The first Polaris, the Memovox Polaris, released by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1968, had an alarm function that could function even underwater. This first model was the inspiration for a reissue released in 2018.


Tudor
"Pelagos"

Pelagos

(Top) "Pelagos." Automatic movement (Cal. MT5612). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Ti and stainless steel case (42mm diameter). Water resistant to 500m. 450,000 yen (excluding tax). (Bottom) Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner 7016, made in 1969. Equipped with the caliber ETA 2483, it boasted water resistance to 200m. (Inquiries) Rolex Japan/Tudor Tel. 03-3216-5671

 The Pelagos design, aimed at professional divers, can trace its roots back to the 1969 Oyster Prince Submariner. This model was also the first to feature Tudor's "snowflake" hands, designed to prevent the hour and minute hands from being mistaken for hands. The square-tipped seconds hand, coated with luminous material, also gives divers peace of mind in the dark depths of the ocean. Equipped with a helium escape valve, the Pelagos is water resistant to 500 meters. It's available with a rubber strap or titanium bracelet.


The history and lineage of the Rolex GMT-Master. Also introducing the features of the current model.

http://www.webchronos.net/features/53862/
The history of Breitling's collection. A look into the brand's genealogy.

http://www.webchronos.net/features/52701/
IWC's Pilot's Watches: A History and Recommended Models

http://www.webchronos.net/features/51599/