Everything has a name, and each name has a meaning and a reason for being named. So, what is the origin of the name of that famous watch? In this column, we will explore the secrets behind the names of watches and introduce them along with their anecdotes.
This time, we will explore the origin of the name of the "Vintage 1945," one of Girard-Perregaux's iconic models, an Art Deco-style square watch.
Articles published in March 2020
Girard-Perregaux "Vintage 1945"
The motif of the "Vintage 1945" is said to be a square watch made in 1945. The model above is a square watch made in the 1940s that is reminiscent of that motif. As is typical of the 1940s, the case is a combination of gold-filled and stainless steel. Unfortunately, the dial has been repainted, making it difficult to imagine the original from which it was inspired. Manual-winding (Cal. GP86). 17 jewels. Stainless steel with 18KPG fill. Not waterproof. Owned by Girard-Perregaux.
Girard-Perregaux's "Vintage 1945" was born in 1995. The name of the model comes from the fact that it is based on a model produced in 1945.
The late Luigi Macaluso was the creator of the "Vintage 1945." He joined Girard-Perregaux in 1987. Macaluso became CEO in 1992 and planned to reissue some of the classic models from the company's collection dating back to the late 1970s. One of these was the rectangular-case model from 1945.
In 1994, the year before the "Vintage 1945" was released, the brand released the "Vintage 94," a reissue of a classic square-case model, limited to 203 pieces worldwide to commemorate the brand's 203rd anniversary. Given its success, the brand was confident that the "Vintage 1945" would also be a success. And just as expected, the "Vintage 1945" was also initially planned to be a limited edition, but due to the overwhelming response, it was made into a regular item.
Born in Turin, Italy on June 9, 1948. He founded a watch wholesale company in Italy in 1982. In 1987, he became the official importer of Girard-Perregaux in Italy. In 1989, he acquired shares in Girard-Perregaux and joined the company's board of directors. On September 15, 1992, he acquired the company and became its president. From 1994 to 1997, he partnered with Ferrari for 11 years, releasing co-branded models (the contract has now expired), actively promoting research and development, and introducing the concept of "manufacture" to luxury watches by releasing in-house developed movements, which he utilized in marketing. He had a profound impact on the revival of luxury watches and their global boom. He passed away on October 27, 2010.
Macaluso recalled the incident in an interview:
"The reason we revived the 'Vintage 1945' in 1995 was because of the splendor of its design. I also intuitively understood that an Art Deco-based design would be perceived as modern at the time. So I thought that creating it would be one of the best ways to express the individuality of the brand."
"Another factor was that at the time, Girard-Perregaux did not have any square watches. Needless to say, the spirit and character expressed by a round watch are not the same as those expressed by a square watch. That's why I was personally interested in the new style that would be born from reviving the design of the Vintage 1945."
"The result was a huge success. The reprint was planned to be a limited edition, but the response was amazing. So, although that was actually what we had intended to do from the beginning, we decided to make it a regular edition."
The Vintage 1945 was a huge success, a masterpiece by Macaluso, and became a classic representative of Girard-Perregaux. However, I have long had a question: Is the Vintage 1945 really based on the 1945 model?
The design of the Vintage 1945 is said to be Art Deco, and that's certainly true. The rectangular case with a bezel set back to the sides, the distinctive triangular lugs, and the striking gadroons are all typical Art Deco elements. However, there's one thing.
Art Deco was at its height in the 1920s and 1930s. During this period, Girard-Perregaux established an assembly plant in New York to focus on the American market. They achieved great success with rectangular case models in the Art Deco style, which were popular in America at the time. In other words, Girard-Perregaux was also a master of Art Deco.
Girard-Perregaux was one of the first to open an authorized dealer in Japan in 1861, during the final days of the Edo period. The year before, François Perregaux, a member of the brand's family, first visited Japan. At the time, indigo dye was everywhere, from people's clothing to shop curtains. British chemist Robert Atkinson, who visited Japan in 1874, was so struck by the color that he recorded it as "Japan Blue." This Japan-limited model, released in 2019, evokes that "Japan Blue." The clean white dial, featuring indigo Roman numerals, and blue hour, minute, and second hands, creates a fresh and lively impression. Automatic movement (Cal. GP03300-0035). 28 jewels. 28,800 vph. Stainless steel case (33.30mm x 32.46mm). Power reserve: approximately 46 hours. Water resistant to 30m. Limited to 100 pieces in Japan. 116 million yen (excluding tax).
This leads me to wonder: isn't the "Vintage 1945" design a product of that time, the 1920s and 1930s?
In fact, the set-back case, triangular lugs, and gadroons seem quite outdated, even though they first appeared in 1945. So perhaps models with designs from the 1920s and 1930s had been produced for many years, and the model Macaluso chose just happened to be made in 1945?
And it makes me wonder: was the model Macaluso chose actually made in 1945?
Because if it was made in 1945, they could proudly proclaim it as "50th anniversary" when it was announced in 1995. Wasn't that the important thing? After all, the previous year they had used half-baked slogans like "Celebrating the 203rd anniversary of the brand's founding" and "Limited to 203 pieces worldwide." In comparison, "50th anniversary" is a much more meaningful, attractive, persuasive and excellent sales pitch. That's why they wanted to present it as a reproduction of the 1945 model. Isn't that right?
So, for that reason, I personally don't believe at all that the "Vintage 1945" is based on a model produced in 1945. However, I do believe deeply that it is a masterpiece that will remain in watch history. This year marks the 25th anniversary of the birth of the "Vintage 1945" (I won't say the 75th anniversary). I'm really looking forward to seeing what kind of commemorative model will be released.
Contact info: Sowind Japan Tel. 03-5211-1791
Writer and editor. Writes about men's lifestyles in general for publications such as "LEON" and "MADURO." He also writes about watches in a series of articles and appears in many videos for the web magazine "FORZA STYLE."
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http://www.webchronos.net/features/67695/
