Discover the history of Patek Philippe: its origins and collection lineage

2020.09.22

Patek Philippe is a brand with a long history and tradition that boasts extremely high value. Let's take a look at its history from its founding about 180 years ago to the present day, and delve into the appeal of the watches that Patek Philippe offers.

Patek Philippe Headquarters


What is Patek Philippe?

Patek Philippe is one of the world's leading luxury watch brands. Let's take a look at the charm of this brand, which has been loved by many famous celebrities throughout history.

One of the world's three largest luxury watch manufacturers

When it comes to luxury watches, many people will think of Rolex or Omega, but in the world of watches, there are ultra-luxury watch brands that surpass these brands and are favored by celebrities.

These are Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin, known as the "world's three largest luxury watch manufacturers."

In particular, Patek Philippe, a manufacturer that handles everything from design to movement production in-house, is a brand that stands out from the other two companies and reigns supreme in the watch world.

All of the techniques that have been accumulated since the company's founding are preserved, and the company is one of the few watch maisons to offer "permanent repairs," and will not refuse to repair any watch that is over 100 years old.

The allure of Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe watches feature beautiful designs that combine superior functionality and performance with sophisticated and complex movements crafted with the utmost technical skill.

In addition to being a watch that boasts a level of perfection that lives up to its name as an ultra-luxury watch, another attractive feature is that, even if decades have passed since it was manufactured, it can be restored to a perfect condition that is as close to the original as possible under the ``permanent repair'' program.

For these reasons, Patek Philippe is said to be a representative watch brand with high resale value, and its price does not drop significantly even when it is sold on the used market.

Some sports collectibles, such as the Nautilus and Aquanaut, are even selling for more than they were purchased for.

nautilus

Nautilus, Patek Philippe's first sporty watch collection, was launched in 1976. The collection was named after the world's first submarine, the Nautilus, which was designed in 1800, and the design was inspired by the submarine's porthole.


The History of Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe, one of the world's leading watch manufacturers, boasts a long history spanning more than 180 years since its founding. Let's trace the changes that have taken place since its founding to the present day.

Beginning in 1839

Patek Philippe was founded in 1839 as Patek, Czapek & Co. by two Polish founders, Antoine Norbert de Patek and François Czapek.

At the 1844 Paris Industrial Exhibition, he met the French watchmaker Jean-Adrien Philippe, who officially joined the company the following year, while Capek left.

Antoine Norbert de Patek (left, 1812-1877), who founded Patek, Czapek & Co. in 1839, later met watchmaker Jean-Adrien Philippe (1815-1894) and started a new business as Patek Philippe in 1851.

The company changed its name to Patek Philippe in 1851. In the same year, the world's first keyless clock was exhibited at the Great Exhibition in London, where it was praised, and in 1868 they produced the first Swiss wristwatch, and their name spread throughout Europe.

However, the Great Depression of 1929 caused business to deteriorate, and in 1932, brothers Jean and Charles Stern, who ran a dial manufacturing company, acquired control of Patek Philippe, a company they still run to this day.

Stern and his son

The Stern family has been in charge of running Patek Philippe since 1932. On the left is Honorary Chairman Philippe Stern, and on the right is his son, President Thierry Stern.

System change and establishment of position

After a change in management structure, the Calatrava 96, better known as the Kunroku, was released in 1932 as an attempt to make a comeback. It is considered a masterpiece of a dress watch and has a history of being a favorite of the Japanese royal family.

Since then, the company has continued to release famous collections such as the Nautilus and Aquanaut, as well as numerous complex mechanisms for which it has received numerous patents, thereby establishing itself as a leader in the watch industry.

Patek Philippe is still managed by the Stern family, but the company name still includes the names of the two founders, as a sign of carrying on the founders' wishes.

Calatrava Ref. 96

The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's signature collection, released in 1932. The photo shows the Ref. 96, considered a masterpiece, whose design, including a round case, three-dimensional indexes, and Dauphine hands, is still firmly in place today.


Representative collections and their history

Patek Philippe currently offers eight active collections, and we will introduce some of the most representative collections and their history.

The ultimate in elegance: the Calatrava

As mentioned above, the Calatrava is a long-selling dress watch series, with the first model released in 1932. Many derivative models have been created to date, with 13 current models alone available.

The name of the collection comes from the Spanish Order of Calatrava, and the "Calatrava Cross," a combination of swords and fleur-de-lis, is the traditional emblem of Patek Philippe, making this collection an iconic model for the company.

The simple round design exudes elegance and refinement, and the three-dimensional indexes and elegant hour and minute hands, symbolized by the Dauphine hands, further enhance the overall beauty.

Calatrava 5196J

Calatrava 5196J
The current model follows the design of the Ref. 96, but has updated details such as the case size to be more modern. Manual winding (Cal. 215 PS). 18 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 44 hours. 18K Yellow Gold (diameter 37mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 257 million yen (excluding tax).

"Nautilus" inspired by a ship's porthole

The Nautilus, released in 1976 as a sporty watch with a water resistance of 12 atmospheres, which was exceptional for a thin watch at the time, was a model whose design was inspired by a ship's porthole.

The case was designed by Gerald Genta, who has worked on numerous masterpieces including Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak.

The design is characterized by its octagonal shape and the protruding parts on the left and right called "ears." The ears are the symbol of the Nautilus, and at the same time, they interlock and are secured with screws to enhance water resistance.

This model seeks to combine sportiness with thinness, while also striving to improve water resistance.

Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A

Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A
The design hasn't changed much since the original model in 1976, but the current model's case has been changed from a two-piece to a three-piece construction. The model pictured is highly popular and currently difficult to obtain. Automatic movement (Cal. 26-330 SC). 30 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 40mm from 10 o'clock to 4 o'clock). Water resistant to 12 bar.

Aquanaut: A rounded octagonal case

The Aquanaut is a relatively new collection that was released in 1997 as a sporty watch following the Nautilus. Currently, there are 10 models, including the 5167.

The octagonal case is inherited from the Nautilus, but the Aquanaut is more rounded, and the dial features luminous Arabic numerals.

It is water resistant to 120m, as befits its model name, and the practicality of its "Tropical" band, made of a high-tech composite material that is highly resistant to abrasion and UV rays, is also highly praised.

Aquanaut 5167A

Aquanaut 5167A
The current model has a 40mm case diameter. The smaller scale on the outer edge of the dial gives it a sportier, more modern feel. Automatic (Cal. 324 SC). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 45 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 40mm from 10 o'clock to 4 o'clock). Water resistant to 12 bar. 2,260,000 yen (excluding tax).


Knowing history deepens understanding

Patek Philippe has established its current status as a result of producing numerous masterpieces throughout its long history and continuing to receive high praise.

By learning about the history of each of the flagship models, you will gain a deeper understanding of their characteristics and the appeal of the brand.


Patek Philippe Japan Information Center Tel. 03-3255-8109


Text by Ken Kawabe


Introducing Patek Philippe's features and must-see models

http://www.webchronos.net/features/37038/
Introducing the appeal of the Aquanaut, its types and representative models

http://www.webchronos.net/features/35355/
The characteristics of Patek Philippe pocket watches, along with their main collections

http://www.webchronos.net/features/40276/