NAOYA HIDA & Co. debuted last year. Founder Naoya Tobita has extensive experience in the watch business, but he's also known as a die-hard watch enthusiast. His NH TYPE 1B, released this timepiece, is packaged for everyday use, yet is packed with elements that will appeal to watch lovers. In 2020, the NH TYPE 1B underwent minor improvements. Additionally, the NH TYPE 2, featuring a center second hand, was added. Both models feature more consistent details than their predecessors, making them more cohesive as timepieces.
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
The 2020 model is a watch with improved perfection.
This is the latest TYPE 1 model, released in April 2020. It features the same hand-engraved indexes and a SUS904L case and buckle as previous models. However, it has undergone modifications, such as thinner lugs. It is hand-wound (Cal. 3019SS). 18 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 45 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 37mm, thickness 9.8mm). Approximately 20 units will be produced, including the NH TYPE 2A. Price: 185 million yen (excluding tax).
The approach of "chronograph" minus "chronograph mechanism"
The chronograph mechanism is removed from a chronograph movement with a large balance wheel, resulting in a highly accurate three-hand movement. Movements that use this technique include Audemars Piguet's VZSS series, A. Lange & Söhne's Cal. L041.2, and ETA's so-called "Valgrange." As any watch enthusiast will know, all of these are extremely excellent movements.
The Caliber 3019SS is an ETA7750 movement that has had its chronograph and automatic winding mechanisms removed and a unique bridge and click mechanism added. This approach is exactly the same as that of the legendary Audemars Piguet VZSS series. The ETA7750 has a poor winding feel, but by adding a recoil-type click mechanism, it has a distinct winding feel similar to that of a traditional hand-wound watch. The movement has a diameter of 30mm and a thickness of 4.3mm.
Tobita, a watch enthusiast, also followed this "classic" approach. He chose the ETA 7750 as the base, a landmark automatic chronograph released in 1973. NAOYA HIDA & Co. removed the chronograph mechanism and automatic winding mechanism (which are by no means of praiseworthy) from this movement and created the simple three-hand Cal. 3019SS. The caliber's name comes from its 30mm diameter, its 2019 production date, and its small seconds dial. A hand-wound movement with a large 30mm diameter balance wheel can essentially be described as a modern version of the VZSS.
A smooth winding thanks to a movement of appropriate size
Putting a 30mm diameter movement into a waterproof case inevitably results in a case size exceeding 40mm. However, through ingenuity, the NH TYPE 1's case size was kept to 37mm. This resulted in an appropriate positioning of the small seconds, reminiscent of classic high-precision watches, and the crown also provides a direct winding feel. In my opinion, a pleasant winding feel is something that can only be experienced in a watch with a movement packed full into the case. It's true that if the case and crown are meticulously crafted, you can still enjoy a decent feel even if the movement is small compared to the case. However, if you're a purist who wants the ultimate feel, you should seek out a movement size that's just right for the case. Nowadays, that's almost impossible to achieve.
The movement is 30mm in diameter, while the case is 37mm in diameter. Because of the limited size, the case back is not screwed down, but snap-back. By adopting a snap-back, the case thickness was kept to less than 10mm.
NH TYPE 1C with subtle refinements
The NH TYPE 1B, released in 2019, was an attractive watch, but Tobita felt there was room for improvement. After its release, he developed a concept for a new NH TYPE 1, and in 2020, the NH TYPE 1C was unveiled. The press release, as shown below, is very simple, but the balance of the watch has clearly improved.
・This model is a modified version of the NH TYPE 1B, which was released in 2019 and sold out.
・Compared to NH TYPE 1B, the following changes have been made:
- The outer edges of the lugs (the four protruding parts that connect the watch body to the leather strap) have been made 0.5 mm thinner.
- The shape of the small second hand at the 9 o'clock position has been changed.
- The inside of the curved sapphire crystal is anti-reflective.
- Previously, there was a step between pulling the crown and reaching the time-setting position, but this has been eliminated.
- The brand logo "NAOYA HIDA & Co." on the dial has been moved 0.37 mm upwards.
- The material of the leather strap that comes standard has been changed.
0.5mm thinner lugs
Tobita says that the lug width was the biggest concern. As a former sculptor, he personally carved the lugs to determine the appropriate size. "We tried various sizes, including 0.4mm and 0.3mm, but ultimately settled on 0.5mm." The prototype NH TYPE 1A had extremely thick lugs, but the 1C is closer to the standard. "I know there are people who prefer the thick lugs of the 1A," Tobita says. However, this model also retains the significantly curved lugs that are a hallmark of NAOYA HIDA & Co. The case material is the same as previous models, SUS904L, and the processing was done by a precision processing company using micromachining equipment.
